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Fostex T50RP Incremental Mods and Measurements - Page 40

post #586 of 1109

Hi does anyone know if the Stax 007 pads fit the Fostex T50RP headphones easily ?

I'm running off some improved prototype earpads loosely based on the 007 this week and I just wonder if they are a forced fit or glove-like fit ?

I have to say for $120-$150 the pads are quite flimsy and the padding interior compresses very easily and the side rim is pleather as well. The ear shaped hole just is OK for me so I wonder how bigger eared folks manage when they drop the cash on these ? Do Fostex modders who use the 007's generally attach double-sided tape to the underside ?

 

post #587 of 1109
Quote:
Originally Posted by MunkyNutz View Post

Hi does anyone know if the Stax 007 pads fit the Fostex T50RP headphones easily ?

I'm running off some improved prototype earpads loosely based on the 007 this week and I just wonder if they are a forced fit or glove-like fit ?

I have to say for $120-$150 the pads are quite flimsy and the padding interior compresses very easily and the side rim is pleather as well. The ear shaped hole just is OK for me so I wonder how bigger eared folks manage when they drop the cash on these ? Do Fostex modders who use the 007's generally attach double-sided tape to the underside ?

 

 

I've been using SR-007 pads on my premium models for a while now and have had some great results, they do in-fact fit without need of anything but your fingers and a few minutes, I would consider it a glove-like fit, once it's on it isn't coming off unless removed intentionally, I use double sided tape when attaching Shure 840 pads which isn't necessary for these.

 

Whether subjectively listened to or objectively measured I always found the Sr-007 pads to increase the bass quantity which unfortunately puts it on the flabby side, easily fixed though with a bit of tuning. It took me longer than I'd like to admit to find the right balance using these pads though, I can PM you more specific details if you're interested.


Edited by eltocliousus - 5/21/13 at 12:26am
post #588 of 1109

Last night I made a breakthrough with the Alpha pads. The trick seems to be a very very tiny modified bass port, way smaller than I had imagined would work. Right now I have a single hole in each side that was poked through the masking tape by a toothpick, yes a toothpick and just the very beginning of a toothpick.. I'll upload a picture so you guys can see how tiny the hole is. Before this I had a pen tip sized hole in each side. What the smaller hole seems to do it strengthen the sub-bass, and tame the upper mid-bass and lower mids. Same concept as tuning a speaker box with a port. Smaller diameter and longer length port creates more sub-bass, while a bigger shorter port moves the peak higher in the frequency response. I guess since the Alpha pads are so bassy, they require a crazy small bass port. I had been wondering why I wasn't noticing any real difference between the vents fully open and covered with tape with a pen tip sized hole. 

post #589 of 1109
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonb View Post

Last night I made a breakthrough with the Alpha pads. The trick seems to be a very very tiny modified bass port, way smaller than I had imagined would work. Right now I have a single hole in each side that was poked through the masking tape by a toothpick, yes a toothpick and just the very beginning of a toothpick.. I'll upload a picture so you guys can see how tiny the hole is. Before this I had a pen tip sized hole in each side. What the smaller hole seems to do it strengthen the sub-bass, and tame the upper mid-bass and lower mids. Same concept as tuning a speaker box with a port. Smaller diameter and longer length port creates more sub-bass, while a bigger shorter port moves the peak higher in the frequency response. I guess since the Alpha pads are so bassy, they require a crazy small bass port. I had been wondering why I wasn't noticing any real difference between the vents fully open and covered with tape with a pen tip sized hole. 

Interesting. What kind of material are you using to cover the vents with?

post #590 of 1109

right now, just masking tape. it's easy to seal the vents with it, and it's easy to poke a small hole through. 

 

 

 

I don't have anything to measure it with in mm, but if I had to guess I'd say it's maybe 1mm in diameter. Basically it's just enough of a vent to take some pressure off the driver so it can move more freely and not fight the air pressure inside the cups. Like reducing back pressure in an engine.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thujone View Post

Interesting. What kind of material are you using to cover the vents with?


Edited by jasonb - 5/21/13 at 5:40am
post #591 of 1109

My T50rp's in their current tuning with a +2db treble boost from my E17 might actually dethrone my Q701. I'm going to give it a few more days before I decide too hastily, but I really like what I am hearing right now, even at lower volume as well. Right now the only advantage the Q701 has is in terms of soundstage width, but i'm not even sure that is an advantage since the T50's imaging is clearly better, mainly deeper and sharper. The Q701 does some cool tricks, like make it sound like the music is floating around you, but the imaging here is much better and more accurate on the T50. I never really complained about the bass or even sub-bass on the Q701, but the T50rp clearly has a deeper extended sub-bass which is actually quite fun. It's fast, tight, and impactful, but not bloated anymore.. 

post #592 of 1109
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thujone View Post

Interesting. What kind of material are you using to cover the vents with?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonb View Post

right now, just masking tape. it's easy to seal the vents with it, and it's easy to poke a small hole through. 

 

 

 

I don't have anything to measure it with in mm, but if I had to guess I'd say it's maybe 1mm in diameter. Basically it's just enough of a vent to take some pressure off the driver so it can move more freely and not fight the air pressure inside the cups. Like reducing back pressure in an engine.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonb View Post

My T50rp's in their current tuning with a +2db treble boost from my E17 might actually dethrone my Q701. I'm going to give it a few more days before I decide too hastily, but I really like what I am hearing right now, even at lower volume as well. Right now the only advantage the Q701 has is in terms of soundstage width, but i'm not even sure that is an advantage since the T50's imaging is clearly better, mainly deeper and sharper. The Q701 does some cool tricks, like make it sound like the music is floating around you, but the imaging here is much better and more accurate on the T50. I never really complained about the bass or even sub-bass on the Q701, but the T50rp clearly has a deeper extended sub-bass which is actually quite fun. It's fast, tight, and impactful, but not bloated anymore.. 

 

Excellent news...congrats. Really glad you stuck with it and kept trying things until you got what you like.

 

If interested in temporary and permanent modified bass ports, go to the beginning (just a little scrolling down) and then scroll all the way down to the bottom of Post #1. Depending upon a particular mod configuration and implementation, your preferences, and your audio chain the need for a modified bass port may range from 'None' to a single mm. I usually start with a 3-mm or 4-mm bass port and then increase or reduce the size in 1-mm increments until the bass is "dialed-in." A single mm one way or the other makes a difference you can hear and that shows up on measurements.

 

I've also had good luck with some mods by making two modified bass ports, each 1 or 2 mm, placing one in the middle of the bottom slot and the second in the upper slot.

post #593 of 1109

I just had no idea that a bass port so small would even make any difference. I'm glad I tried it. By the way, I don't remember reading of anybody having success with such a small port, so I never thought to try one so small. I would also guess that most people would now call my T50rp's bass light. I think it sounds neutral though, to my ears anyway. There is still just a hair more overall bass quantity here compared to my Q701, but it definitely extends lower and flatter. I'd also say the lower mids are still a hair warmer than the Q701. They no longer sound clogged and congested though.

 

Here is my current mod list if anybody wants to try it out, this is with the Alpha pads, results with the Shure 840 pads will surely sound quite different.

 

- Mr. Speakers Alpha pads

- V-Moda cable

- baffle mass loaded with non hardening modeling clay

- single layer of stiffened craft felt on rear of driver

- a dime sized treble reflector between stiffened felt and stock white driver paper

- 6 Rite Aid cotton balls per side, not pulled or stretched apart

- pretty much the entire surface of the inside of the cups themselves have been lined in a layer of adhesive backed felt

- baffle port has been left completely open

- the very thin felt on the ear side of the driver has been removed, not sure if this does anything besides keep some dust out, it's so thin to begin with, remove or leave in, I doubt it matters

- applied a single layer of adhesive backed felt around the driver and baffle port on the ear side of the baffle, also not sure if this really does anything, i figured maybe it would absorb reflections on the driver side of the baffle. reflections that maybe would bounce around off of the leather pads and such. I have no proof if this does anything or not, but it was easy and i can't see it doing any harm.

- completely sealed the cups, including around the 3.5mm jack, where the wires enter the cups, and sealed the baffle to the cups.

- roughly a 1mm bass port per side, increase or decrease size for more or less bass 

- no acoustic foam or foam ladder rungs in the cup floors, I don't have any readily available and it seems too expensive to buy online, I honestly don't see it doing much, if anything especially for the money it costs, no fiberglass or rock wool or anything else. 


Edited by jasonb - 5/21/13 at 10:34am
post #594 of 1109
Quote:
Originally Posted by whoelse View Post

By the way, what is wrong with the original T50RP if without the mod? Do they sound that bad? If yes, why didn't Fostex did something about them?

I personally think they sound great out of the box. To where I really don't see any need to mod them. I may mod them when I get bored. But I don't see a need to.
post #595 of 1109
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonb View Post

- completely sealed the cups, including around the 3.5mm jack, where the wires enter the cups, and sealed the baffle to the cups.

What did you use to seal around the jack? I want to use a V-Moda cable because I'm sick of the 1/4" plug but I don't want to do anything irreversible.

post #596 of 1109

They sound ok out of the box if you like that kind of sound, but once modded they sound killer. With the right mods they transform from a budget $75 headphone to a definite mid to high tier headphone. You should at the very least swap the pads out for the Shure SRH840 pads to get better comfort and a better fit/seal. It seems like Fostex made a killer driver and then ran out of R&D money to properly house them. Once properly dampened the bass and the treble get brought up to where they should be, and the mids get even sweeter with minimal ringing. For the price they cost plus the modding materials they are a killer value if you have the time and patience to play with them.    

Quote:
Originally Posted by droido256 View Post


I personally think they sound great out of the box. To where I really don't see any need to mod them. I may mod them when I get bored. But I don't see a need to.
post #597 of 1109

I simply sealed off the area with the same non hardening modeling clay that I used to mass load the baffle. You could also use a silicone, hot glue, or a number of other materials. 

 

You really should seal it off though, otherwise the left side isn't as sealed as the right side is. Ideally the cups should be totally sealed other than your modified bass port, or if you decide to leave the four vent slots completely open. Either way, if you seal everything else off, including around the wires and seal the baffle to the cups, you're starting off knowing where the only leak is. The same way you don't want a speaker box to leak anywhere other than the bass reflex port.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thujone View Post

What did you use to seal around the jack? I want to use a V-Moda cable because I'm sick of the 1/4" plug but I don't want to do anything irreversible.


Edited by jasonb - 5/21/13 at 11:28am
post #598 of 1109
Quote:
Originally Posted by droido256 View Post


I personally think they sound great out of the box. To where I really don't see any need to mod them. I may mod them when I get bored. But I don't see a need to.

$10 at Michaels will go a looooong way if you ever decide to.wink.gif

post #599 of 1109
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonb View Post

I simply sealed off the area with the same non hardening modeling clay that I used to mass load the baffle. You could also use a silicone, hot glue, or a number of other materials. 

I was about to use the modeling clay the other night. I think the main reason I'm hesitant to tackle the jack issue because everything looks so good and I don't want to end up with a ghetto jack on a slick looking pair of cans... Part of me wants to cut the stock cable short and solder on a 1/8" plug and heatshrink it...

post #600 of 1109

Definitely do it from the inside. If sealed from the inside, you'll never see it anyway. Just use enough to seal it and don't use so much pressure where it squeezes out to the outside where you could see it, and of course be careful of the wires where they are soldered.

 

You really do want to seal the cups completely other than whatever venting you decide to do. That way you start off knowing everything is sealed off and not leaking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thujone View Post

I was about to use the modeling clay the other night. I think the main reason I'm hesitant to tackle the jack issue because everything looks so good and I don't want to end up with a ghetto jack on a slick looking pair of cans... Part of me wants to cut the stock cable short and solder on a 1/8" plug and heatshrink it...


Edited by jasonb - 5/21/13 at 11:34am
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