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Fostex T50RP Incremental Mods and Measurements - Page 125

post #1861 of 1874

So I have drilled a great many holes into my poor T50RP housings. Does anybody have any idea of a way to fill these and paint them? Currently I have clay packed in and a piece of electrical tape covering it. I'd like to sand it flush or something but I honestly haven't heard of anything to use like this.

 

Also, what do ya'll use for strain relief for dual sided cables? I currently have a zip tie around the cable and some hot glue over that to hold it in place, but it feels decidedly ghetto.

post #1862 of 1874
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick n View Post
 

I would HIGHLY recommend this, even if only at the 4 corner points of the pad edges. No more awkward precarious feeling of the pads falling off, these are ON.

That feeling bothered me all the time. When wearing them I just always knew in my mind they were looser than they should have been.

 

Ah, so that's why the pads on the T50RP's (that you just got back to me) are not falling off! Nicely done my friend (and nicely done with the other vodoo magic you performed on my T50RP's - they sound awesome!)

:beerchug:

post #1863 of 1874

good stuff waynesworld. the tape sure hold hey.

 

( I had to tone the treble back on the memfoam mod earlier posted in here simply too fatiguing so waynesworld got his tweaked down, and another member also did that to theirs with a similar result=happiness. Bass is slightly boosted now also.)

 

 

BobSaysHi:

 

You know if you message Mr Speakers i recall at one point he mentioned about having an excess of T50 cups and was letting them go cheap  ( maybe postage only I forget )

post #1864 of 1874
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick n View Post
 

good stuff waynesworld. the tape sure hold hey.

 

( I had to tone the treble back on the memfoam mod earlier posted in here simply too fatiguing so waynesworld got his tweaked down, and another member also did that to theirs with a similar result=happiness. Bass is slightly boosted now also.)

 

Like I said via PM, "perfection" pretty much comes to mind :-)


Edited by waynes world - 4/9/15 at 6:52pm
post #1865 of 1874
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobSaysHi View Post

So I have drilled a great many holes into my poor T50RP housings. Does anybody have any idea of a way to fill these and paint them? Currently I have clay packed in and a piece of electrical tape covering it. I'd like to sand it flush or something but I honestly haven't heard of anything to use like this.

Also, what do ya'll use for strain relief for dual sided cables? I currently have a zip tie around the cable and some hot glue over that to hold it in place, but it feels decidedly ghetto.

I was wondering that my self, I'm getting ready to do a full recable and I was trying to figure out how to fill the stock cable hole.

I think Casper uses bondo for all his amazing repaints?


I wouldn't mind some stock cups. Just in case (or when, more likley) accedentally obliterate my stock ones
post #1866 of 1874
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick n View Post
BobSaysHi:

 

You know if you message Mr Speakers i recall at one point he mentioned about having an excess of T50 cups and was letting them go cheap  ( maybe postage only I forget )

 

I have heard that. I might be wrong but I think he just has the side with the cable hole in it, and lots of them.

 

Considering my T50RP have broken and been repaired at least twenty times over the years, I'm pretty attached to these things. They've been stepped on, beaten up, scratched, snapped, and glued back together. They've had solder pads ripped off, dunked in water, left in the heat of my car in the desert (the butyl tar I used for damping oozed all over), and are held together entirely with tape. I've seriously had the cable break or wear out and need replacing three-four times. Been through a couple of pad replacements as well. Basically they want to die but I won't let them. I'm trying to keep them intact for as long as possible. I just want to fill the holes from cable replacements.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeEnCreaTive View Post

I think Casper uses bondo for all his amazing repaints?

 

This looks like what I need. Thanks.

post #1867 of 1874

He must have both since he only takes drivers out of them for some things.  Anyhow worth a shot and best of luck

post #1868 of 1874
So I was walking around my local crafts store the other day and here's what's inside the cups of my pair right now:
http://www.michaels.com/creatology-pom-poms-5-mm/M10128696.html?dwvar_M10128696_color=Black#start=16

Seems to work as good as anything for absorbing the backwave (cotton, latex foam, dense polyurethane foam, fiberglass, etc), doesn't restrict the driver's airflow too much making it easy to tune the driver damping and cup venting independently, and is very manageable.
post #1869 of 1874
Quote:
Originally Posted by c61746961 View Post

So I was walking around my local crafts store the other day and here's what's inside the cups of my pair right now:
http://www.michaels.com/creatology-pom-poms-5-mm/M10128696.html?dwvar_M10128696_color=Black#start=16

Seems to work as good as anything for absorbing the backwave (cotton, latex foam, dense polyurethane foam, fiberglass, etc), doesn't restrict the driver's airflow too much making it easy to tune the driver damping and cup venting independently, and is very manageable.


I saw a while ago they also have something called Fuzzy Felt  also.  And bags of feathers. At first I though that was what you were going to say.

post #1870 of 1874
Yeah, I saw the feathers too but the thought of having to cut and weigh them kinda put me off.
post #1871 of 1874
So I tried Dynamat in the back and didn't like it and found cotton balls + tungsten putty in the back of the cups to be better for my taste. I did full the baffles with clay (crayola stuff I found at michaels) and I do believe sound has improved, butt I think the best modification is the internal bass port mod. Though my words should be taken as a grain of salt as my modding skills are barbaric at best
post #1872 of 1874
post #1873 of 1874

I don't have any knowledge on using REW, so this will be my first time to do it correctly(admittedly, I did try a long long time ago, but only failed to get the proper management and I gave up since).

 

So currently I'm trying to calibrate my mic by using my current headphones, namely the Q701, so that it matches to existing measurements around the web. I found that there were parts of the graph that were different compared to other measurements. So my questions :

 

  1. How to edit the graph/calibration files so that it matches the measured graphs on the internet?
  2. I think by doing so will mean that the parts of the graphs are "compensated" in the calibration files, and thus making the measurements "correct". Am I wrong to think like so? (compensated as in the difference due to the position of headphones on the head and such)
  3. There is this one peculiar part of the graph, about >2kHz mark, the graph have the exact same shape, even if take the same measurements repeatedly. Comparing to the other parts of the graph when I take repeated measurements, they have some small changes, but it;s not big and the overall shape still stays the same. but not at <2kHz. That part just stays exactly the same. So I'm thinking that something maybe wrong with my settings, in the software or hardware part.

 

I'd be happy to clarify if my questions aren't clear enough.

post #1874 of 1874
Quote:
Originally Posted by cCasper TFG View Post

I'm just going to leave this here...

http://www.head-fi.org/t/763009/fostex-new-rp-headphones-t50rpmk3-t40rpmk3-and-t20rpmk3#post_11516313


RIP wallet.

I just bought a pebble, 2 pairs of portapros, chromecast, finish my restoration on my KEF 104/2s.... now I need new t50rps lol


EDIT: now we get to figure out new mods!
Edited by SeEnCreaTive - 4/17/15 at 1:16pm
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