Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphones (full-size) › Fostex T50RP Incremental Mods and Measurements
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Fostex T50RP Incremental Mods and Measurements - Page 81

post #1201 of 1215

Hmm.. I actually have some of those here at the house already.

post #1202 of 1215
Rawlplugs and Drywall screws?
If anyone can adapt that combo into a bass port @cCasper TFG can! biggrin.gif

beerchug.gif
post #1203 of 1215
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

Rawlplugs and Drywall screws?
If anyone can adapt that combo into a bass port @cCasper TFG can! biggrin.gif

beerchug.gif

such confidence...cCasper TFG must be good

wink.gif
post #1204 of 1215
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick n View Post
 

How are you going to approach that? Close the ones you don't want with grommets?

Thanks for the post hope you post the final product. BTW the white/pearl ones are amazingly nice.

Variable Bass Port Mod

 

Last year, I ordered some thin, flat rubber magnets with the intention to use them for a Variable Bass Port mod. I posted this idea in either FIMM or the T50RP mod thread but never got around to doing much with the idea. I put the magnets away and other projects have delayed my experiments. This is what I had in mind.

 

Magnet 1:

 

1. Use an X-acto knife to cut away the internal stock felt to expose Only the second from the bottom slot. The other 3 slots remain covered by the stock felt.

2. Magnet 1: Cut a flat rubberized magnet to precisely fit the external cup vent area.

3. Make a template of thin card stock matching the dimensions of Magnet 1.

4. Determine the exact position of the second from bottom vent slot and mark the card stock template.

5. Cut a slot in the card stock template that overlays and aligns Exactly with the second from bottom vent slot...Be sure to leave 5 mm on either side of the template slot.

    This will result in an opening ~ 16mm wide, centered over slot 2 with 5 mm closed on either side.

6. Use the template to cut the open slot in Magnet 1 that must perfectly align with the open cup slot.

7. Glue Magnet 1 onto the external cup vent area. Be sure all 4 sides are sealed and the open slot of Magnet 1 is aligned with the open cup vent slot.

8. Apply a thin bead of GE Silicone II to Magnet 2's edges for a perfect seal. Wipe away excess silicone for a clean look.

 

Magnet 2:

 

1. Cut Magnet 2 to match the dimensions of Magnet 1.

2. Use the cardboard template to mark a centered, 2 mm opening that perfectly aligns with the open slot in Magnet 1 and the second from bottom, now Open, cup vent slot. 

3. Cut out the Variable Bass Port with an X-acto knife using a metal ruler as a guide.

4. Make multiples of Magnet 2 with centered openings of different sizes; for example, 3 mm, 4 mm, 5 mm, 7 mm, 10 mm, and 13 mm for a total of 6, progressively wider openings.

5. Magnets 1 and 2 will attract and attach to one another, creating a variable modified bass port determined by Magnet 2's slot width.

6. Dialing in the Bass Port size desired for a particular modification configuration and gear chain should be easy and fast.

 

If anyone tries this, please post results.

 

~BMF


Edited by bluemonkeyflyer - 8/10/14 at 10:09am
post #1205 of 1215
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

Rawlplugs and Drywall screws?
If anyone can adapt that combo into a bass port @cCasper TFG can! biggrin.gif

beerchug.gif

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by vertical View Post


such confidence...cCasper TFG must be good

wink.gif

Ha thanks guys! I'll do my best!

post #1206 of 1215

The latest pair :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #1207 of 1215
Wow, most excellent!
So are the bass ports able to be closed?
post #1208 of 1215
They look amazing!
post #1209 of 1215

You bet! I have some screws for them already, but I'm going to get some black screws from Lowes before I ship them out to the person. The silver screws I have clash with these colors pretty badly.

post #1210 of 1215

What about sound?

post #1211 of 1215

You willingly put those mini-coax connectors on there? :confused_face:

post #1212 of 1215
Quote:
Originally Posted by MuZo2 View Post

What about sound?

Very nice. The texture is so good with these drivers and with the Paxmate, dynamat, clay on the baffles, and the bass ports they are awesome. With both bass ports open they're effing bass cannons. Like, D2000 step aside, I've got some bass to drop.
post #1213 of 1215
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post

You willingly put those mini-coax connectors on there? confused_face.gif

Heck yeah, I love the way they look and so did the guy who wanted this mod done for him (these aren't mine, they're a mock up of my old pair).

It's nice having a dual entry detachable cable option that doesn't make you drill out massive holes in the bottoms of the cups.
post #1214 of 1215
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post
 

You willingly put those mini-coax connectors on there? :confused_face:

Thats what i put on my shure 840s, and, caspers doing that on my t50s as well. I actually like them, and i have one balanced hifiman cable for all 3 of my hps now. I never understood why people didnt like the smc/sma connectors. BUT, ive been working with mini coax, cat5/6 and fiber for years so im used to tiny "flimsy" connectors.

post #1215 of 1215
Quote:
Originally Posted by peter123 View Post
 

I relly love the new memory foam velour HM5 pads. I've even mounted a pair on my sr325is and I enjoy them a lot in this configuration (both sonically and nit the least for the comfort).

 

Yep, loving them also . Ears no longer touch the driver. No noticeable downgrade in sound.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Headphones (full-size)
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphones (full-size) › Fostex T50RP Incremental Mods and Measurements