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Dismantling guide for the DT 1350 - Should help with re-cabling and modinng

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 

We have recently started stocking the beyerdynamic range of headphones. Most of their models are pretty straight forward to pull apart but our favourite model, the DT1350, had me scratching my head for quite a few days while trying to dismantle it without damaging any of the parts. I have now figured it out so soon I should have made my first custom pairs and it opend up quite a few mod options like damping, mass loading and re-cabling.

Here is a quick guide to how I dismantled them

Stage one – I removed the pads, they are held on with double sided tape so you just need to pull them firmly and carefully and they will come off

 

Stage 2 – Removing the drivers.

This is the bit that took a bit of bravery and head scratching to figure out ;) Turns out they are just clipped into the housing a bit like the DT770 – there is a tiny gap which you can get a pry tool or screw driver in to leaver it up – it will eventually POP and then it comes out easily

 

Stage 3 – Unsoldering the cables.

If I have to explain this you probably should not be trying this LOL but inside you can see they went for a three core cable – there is a board they attach to with 4 tracks and 2 of them have a solder bridge to link the ground wires. When I re-wire them I will remove the solder bridge and make a 4 core braided cable and remove the solder bridge to give them separate ground wires down to the jack.

 

 

 

Stage 4 – Unclip the earcups from the yoke

This is pretty straight forward, The yoke has a bit of spring in it and with the drivers out the earcup flexes a bit and you just need to pull out the lugs to unclip it

 

 

Stage 5 – Removing the cable

These is a metal staple type thing inside the earcup – pull it out by inserting a screwdriver and levering it up and the cable will be released

 

Stage 6 – the fiddly bits ;)

Inside the earcup the wires connecting the left and right is held in place with a crimped brassy ring of metal – you need to open that out using a thin blade to release the cable and the rubber strain relief buts can be pulled out of the holes from the inside of the cup using some pliers.

 

 

Stage 7 – Removing the yoke from the headband.

These are held in by the plastic stoppers on the ends – I levered up the two plastic clips with a scalpel blade and then wiggled them off – than pull the yoke through

532398_10150903925596176_1613696699_n.jpg

 

Finally I removed the rubber covers from the headband which have the cable running through. – The only bit I have not yet figured out is how to get the hinges apart – IF ANYONE HAS FIGURED THIS OUT LET ME KNOW

 

Hope this helps and if any one has any questions feel free to ask and I will do my best to answer them

J

 


Edited by jfunk - 7/14/12 at 7:34am
post #2 of 10
Thread Starter 

UPDATE - Turns out it is not just a solder bridge on the board inside the earcup it actually has a track in between the left and right ground rails so if you are going for seperate ground wires it is probably worth just making the wires for the right earcup longer and runing it straight through the headband rather than joining it in the earcup

inside the DT1350 earcup


Edited by jfunk - 7/13/12 at 9:45am
post #3 of 10
Very nicely detail instructions. Thank you for sharring with us. I also notice that your pair of DT1350 didn't have any damping material in the cups. I assume mine are older (sn 10378) and have Two layer of felt inside the cup.
post #4 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twinster View Post

Very nicely detail instructions. Thank you for sharring with us. I also notice that your pair of DT1350 didn't have any damping material in the cups. I assume mine are older (sn 10378) and have Two layer of felt inside the cup.

Interesting... these were S/N 13600 - I have ordered some more so I will let you know if this was just a freak pair or if they have now ditched the damping material 

post #5 of 10

edit: nevermind.


Edited by oddsratio - 1/4/13 at 1:04am
post #6 of 10

Hello:

 

Would it be possible to repost or attach the images?  Looks like they were removed from the server and dont display in the post any longer.  I've just purchased a pair of these and would like to recable them.

 

Many thanks.

post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by brendanh View Post
 

Hello:

 

Would it be possible to repost or attach the images?  Looks like they were removed from the server and dont display in the post any longer.  I've just purchased a pair of these and would like to recable them.

 

Many thanks.

Hi there,

             I will try to sort it out in a few days time - in the meantime the pics are still on facebook here https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.10150996403484830&type=1

post #8 of 10

Hi I own a DT1350 and is considering re-cabling.  I like the sound signature of DT990 which I think offers better sound stage and bass.  Any suggestions on the cable I should consider if I want to improve it towards this direction?  Thanks for the sharing in advance.

post #9 of 10
 
jfunk View Post
 

Hi there,

             I will try to sort it out in a few days time - in the meantime the pics are still on facebook here https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.10150996403484830&type=1

 

Thanks to the description in the first post, and these photos, I was able to mod the DT 1350 with a female 3.5mm jack so I could swap cables.

 

Popped the driver off by levering just beside the tab midway between the board and the entry hole for the cable. In the photo, the u-shaped clip has been removed and the "rubber stopper" that holds the cable in place at the ear cup has been pushed out and is out of shot.

 

I cut the cable just above the "rubber stopper" in case I wanted to reverse the procedure and solder the wires back together inside the cup. Used a small round file to open up the hole. Soldered in a 3.5mm female jack and inserted it into the enlarged hole. There is plenty of clearance for the driver with the jack inserted as shown. I probably could have pushed it in about 5mm more and still had enough clearance. This would have made the outside of the cup tidier, and shortened the length of connector sticking out of the cup.

3.5mm female jack purchased here: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=4103

 

 

Testing the connections with a 3-button Android cable for Beats Solo HD: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=3373

The earpads are the "nubuck leatherette" EDT 1350 N from Beyerdynamic: http://europe.beyerdynamic.com/shop/edt-1350-n.html

The rolled up tissue paper tucked into the gap inside the pads is to make the profile the same as the stock pads and bring back the bass response that is lost with the nubuck pads. I was hoping this earpad mod would help with comfort, but the improvement is minimal. Might try these http://north-america.beyerdynamic.com/shop/edt-1350-sl.html or these http://north-america.beyerdynamic.com/shop/edt-51p.html

 

A bit of epoxy to hold the jack in place.

 

Pop the driver back in, stick earpad back on, and we're ready to go! Shown is a 1-button Android remote cable For Sennheiser HD598 from here: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=4764. I swapped the 2.5mm male connector with locking groove for this: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=4660

post #10 of 10
Mod Procedure (Click to show)
 
gixxerwimp View Post
 
Thanks to the description in the first post, and these photos, I was able to mod the DT 1350 with a female 3.5mm jack so I could swap cables.

 

Popped the driver off by levering just beside the tab midway between the board and the entry hole for the cable. In the photo, the u-shaped clip has been removed and the "rubber stopper" that holds the cable in place at the ear cup has been pushed out and is out of shot.

 

I cut the cable just above the "rubber stopper" in case I wanted to reverse the procedure and solder the wires back together inside the cup. Used a small round file to open up the hole. Soldered in a 3.5mm female jack and inserted it into the enlarged hole. There is plenty of clearance for the driver with the jack inserted as shown. I probably could have pushed it in about 5mm more and still had enough clearance. This would have made the outside of the cup tidier, and shortened the length of connector sticking out of the cup.

3.5mm female jack purchased here: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=4103

 

 

Testing the connections with a 3-button Android cable for Beats Solo HD: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=3373

The earpads are the "nubuck leatherette" EDT 1350 N from Beyerdynamic: http://europe.beyerdynamic.com/shop/edt-1350-n.html

The rolled up tissue paper tucked into the gap inside the pads is to make the profile the same as the stock pads and bring back the bass response that is lost with the nubuck pads. I was hoping this earpad mod would help with comfort, but the improvement is minimal. Might try these http://north-america.beyerdynamic.com/shop/edt-1350-sl.html or these http://north-america.beyerdynamic.com/shop/edt-51p.html

 

A bit of epoxy to hold the jack in place.

 

Pop the driver back in, stick earpad back on, and we're ready to go! Shown is a 1-button Android remote cable For Sennheiser HD598 from here: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=4764. I swapped the 2.5mm male connector with locking groove for this: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=4660

 

 

The epoxy didn't hold, so I bought a glue gun and did this. I was able to push the jack in further so it doesn't stick out so far.

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