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What's the difference between the Sennheiser HD 428 and the HD 429?

post #1 of 29
Thread Starter 

In terms of comfort, sound quality and bass?

post #2 of 29

I think the biggest variable is the outer shells.  The HD-428 has a rubberized coating that is pretty neat on the outer centers of the cups.  The HD-429 has some hard plastic instead.  Also, the HD-429 has a second variety, which has an "S" in the model number, which indicates it only has a cable that is about 1 meter long instead of the 7' or 8' monster like the non-"S" model.

 

I have a pair of HD-428s.  I have modified them to enhance the bass output.  The modification is simple, but I don't have the time right now to document it.  However, in a few day's, I'll put the posting up.  The mod is actually cheap and can be adjustable.  If you want the HD-428s to have the sickest bass possible, that could embarrass the Beats, yes, that option exists.  However, I tend to pull the mods back slightly so a nice amount of bass is added without overdoing it.  Plus, the bass added is actually a bit musical - and not just a "one note" bass enhancement that could give you all kinds of bass noise, but have little validity.

 

Stay tuned ...

post #3 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

I think the biggest variable is the outer shells.  The HD-428 has a rubberized coating that is pretty neat on the outer centers of the cups.  The HD-429 has some hard plastic instead.  Also, the HD-429 has a second variety, which has an "S" in the model number, which indicates it only has a cable that is about 1 meter long instead of the 7' or 8' monster like the non-"S" model.

 

I have a pair of HD-428s.  I have modified them to enhance the bass output.  The modification is simple, but I don't have the time right now to document it.  However, in a few day's, I'll put the posting up.  The mod is actually cheap and can be adjustable.  If you want the HD-428s to have the sickest bass possible, that could embarrass the Beats, yes, that option exists.  However, I tend to pull the mods back slightly so a nice amount of bass is added without overdoing it.  Plus, the bass added is actually a bit musical - and not just a "one note" bass enhancement that could give you all kinds of bass noise, but have little validity.

 

Stay tuned ...


Will be watching for this.

post #4 of 29
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

I think the biggest variable is the outer shells.  The HD-428 has a rubberized coating that is pretty neat on the outer centers of the cups.  The HD-429 has some hard plastic instead.  Also, the HD-429 has a second variety, which has an "S" in the model number, which indicates it only has a cable that is about 1 meter long instead of the 7' or 8' monster like the non-"S" model.

 

I have a pair of HD-428s.  I have modified them to enhance the bass output.  The modification is simple, but I don't have the time right now to document it.  However, in a few day's, I'll put the posting up.  The mod is actually cheap and can be adjustable.  If you want the HD-428s to have the sickest bass possible, that could embarrass the Beats, yes, that option exists.  However, I tend to pull the mods back slightly so a nice amount of bass is added without overdoing it.  Plus, the bass added is actually a bit musical - and not just a "one note" bass enhancement that could give you all kinds of bass noise, but have little validity.

 

Stay tuned ...

So there is no difference between the 2 in terms of sound quality and bass?

post #5 of 29

1

post #6 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamieuk147 View Post

1

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jamieuk147 View Post

1

Dont spam the forum ask your stuff here 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/529144/recommendations-thread-i-e-dont-start-a-new-thread-ask-for-advice-here-please-read-op/15945

post #7 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by dakanao View Post

So there is no difference between the 2 in terms of sound quality and bass?

No, I can't claim that.  I have not had the HD-429 in my hands to be able to provide an comparisons.  I only know some of the physical differences in the outer cups, that I described above.  The HD-428 has the "rubberized" coating on the outer most portion of the cups.  Personally, it's hard to tell what Sennheiser may have changed between the HD-428 and HD-429.  However, knowing Sennheiser, they could have done it for a few reasons.  1) The "429" being a new and higher number, could reinvigorate sales by luring in new and curious buyers.  Or, 2) Maybe, they found a different manufacturing method to provide them with more profit on the HD-429.  I personally, can't think of any reasons why they'd change the driver because that would lead to more R&D costs -- which on an $80 headphone, can be a bit harder to justify.  Then again, the HD-429 could have benefited from "trickle down" technology.  But, keep in mind, they wouldn't want to make it too great -- why cannibalize the sales of the costlier Sennheisers?

 

OK.  It's going to take some time for me to get to my pictorial diagram of what I wanted to provide for the group here on the revision to enhance the bass is *dramatic* proportions on the HD-428.  So,  allow me to step through the process here  in this thread.

 

1) The ear pads have to first be removed.  They have a "lip" on them under the padded portion.  These lips fit under some protruding plastic tabs on the ear cup side of the headphones.

 

2) On each side of the pad, squeeze it so that the side of the pad moves inward and releases the lip from the outer plastic tab.  You can do this about 1/2" at a time and normally, you only have to push in on one side of the ear pad to get it loose, so it can be separated from the cup.

 

3) With the ear pads removed, you'll see the transducer.  The transducer is round, but set into an oval baffle structure.  There is grey foam covering about 80% of the baffle area around the transducer.

 

4) Under the grey foam, on each outer corner, there is a small phillips screw, for a total of 4.

 

5) Keeping any probing device away from the transducer itself, slowly work over the foam until you feel the indentation below the foam. 

 

6) This is where you'll make a small cut, or notch to gain access to the screw.  Perform this process to locate and gain access to all 4 screws.

 

7) Remove the screws from the oval baffle, which holds the transducer assembly into the cup itself.

 

8) Prior to pulling out the transducer assembly, take a small breath.  The connecting wire from the cup to the transducer assembly is quite tiny and frail, so work carefully when removing the transducer assembly and flipping it over to gain access to the back of the assembly.

 

9) The back of the transducer assembly is fully encased in an oval plastic shell. 

 

10) Look  carefully at the back of the transducer shell.  You'll be looking for a rectangular piece of tape that appears like a black or dark grey filter paper.  The filter paper / tape is covering 3 holes and you might see the 3 holes slightly through the filter paper / tape.  It should be the only tape or item that is affixed to the back of the transducer.  To spot it easier, you might carefully use a flashlight, which should reveal the 3 holes easier.

 

11) Once the tape has been located as well as the "3" holes, carefully take a small craft knife to cut the filter tape / paper around the middle hole.  The remove the section of the filter tape / paper -- leaving that hole open and allowing it to breathe -- this is the "bass mod" by removing a restriction that Sennheiser has put in place.

 

12) Carefully, flip the transducer over and insert into the cup.

 

13) Reinstall the 4 screws into their respective slots using a small phillips screwdriver.

 

14) Once both transducers have been modified and set back into the cups with the screws adhered, it's time to install the ear pads.

 

15) Installing the ear pads is relatively easy when you take your time.  Locate the lip around the outer rim on the bottom of the cup.

 

16) Place the lip under the tabs on one side of the cup.

 

17) Then, using your finger and thumb, carefully push the other side of the ear pad inwards towards the middle, so that the lip moves in past the tab.  Then, set it into place under the tab.

 

18) You might have to perform this same activity to ensure the lip of the ear pad is secured under the tabs (10 or so of them) that are on the cup facing of the headphone.

 

19) With the ear pads in place, try out your Sennheiser HD-428 headphones with your favorite music.  You will notice a *significant* increase in bass.  The bass should be of somewhat good quality and blend well with your music.  If you happen to be a completed bass freak, you could go for more holes to open up.  However, truly, just test one out initially as I feel that it will make enough of a dramatic difference to "wow" you.  Going for all 3 holes opened up is total insanity and that's where I started -- not knowing how much bass would be produced by opening all 3 of them.  For me, after two songs, I was literally getting a migraine after 7 minutes of music.  The bass with 3 holes opened was easily more bass than the Beats headphones are capable of, and the Sennheiser HD-428 can do it without any batteries.  But, I can't attest to the quality of bass with all holes open and I can't be responsible for the pressure damage that could happen to your ear drums, so please tread carefully with this modification.

 

I found my HD-428 (s) headphones locally on eBay.  They were a refurbished pair, still sealed in the plastic bag and shrink wrap by Sennheiser -- this is apparently how they sell their refurbished HD-428s instead of putting them back into a new blister pack.  I picked my pair up for $40.00 just last week.  The highest I'd pay is $80.00, but there are plenty of sources to find it for less.  $80.00 is the MSRP price that places like Best Buy sells it for.

 

Best of luck to you.  Have fun and enjoy this modification, which clearly has the best bang for the buck return as only time is involved in the process, yet the results returned are dramatic.

post #8 of 29
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

No, I can't claim that.  I have not had the HD-429 in my hands to be able to provide an comparisons.  I only know some of the physical differences in the outer cups, that I described above.  The HD-428 has the "rubberized" coating on the outer most portion of the cups.  Personally, it's hard to tell what Sennheiser may have changed between the HD-428 and HD-429.  However, knowing Sennheiser, they could have done it for a few reasons.  1) The "429" being a new and higher number, could reinvigorate sales by luring in new and curious buyers.  Or, 2) Maybe, they found a different manufacturing method to provide them with more profit on the HD-429.  I personally, can't think of any reasons why they'd change the driver because that would lead to more R&D costs -- which on an $80 headphone, can be a bit harder to justify.  Then again, the HD-429 could have benefited from "trickle down" technology.  But, keep in mind, they wouldn't want to make it too great -- why cannibalize the sales of the costlier Sennheisers?

 

OK.  It's going to take some time for me to get to my pictorial diagram of what I wanted to provide for the group here on the revision to enhance the bass is *dramatic* proportions on the HD-428.  So,  allow me to step through the process here  in this thread.

 

1) The ear pads have to first be removed.  They have a "lip" on them under the padded portion.  These lips fit under some protruding plastic tabs on the ear cup side of the headphones.

 

2) On each side of the pad, squeeze it so that the side of the pad moves inward and releases the lip from the outer plastic tab.  You can do this about 1/2" at a time and normally, you only have to push in on one side of the ear pad to get it loose, so it can be separated from the cup.

 

3) With the ear pads removed, you'll see the transducer.  The transducer is round, but set into an oval baffle structure.  There is grey foam covering about 80% of the baffle area around the transducer.

 

4) Under the grey foam, on each outer corner, there is a small phillips screw, for a total of 4.

 

5) Keeping any probing device away from the transducer itself, slowly work over the foam until you feel the indentation below the foam. 

 

6) This is where you'll make a small cut, or notch to gain access to the screw.  Perform this process to locate and gain access to all 4 screws.

 

7) Remove the screws from the oval baffle, which holds the transducer assembly into the cup itself.

 

8) Prior to pulling out the transducer assembly, take a small breath.  The connecting wire from the cup to the transducer assembly is quite tiny and frail, so work carefully when removing the transducer assembly and flipping it over to gain access to the back of the assembly.

 

9) The back of the transducer assembly is fully encased in an oval plastic shell. 

 

10) Look  carefully at the back of the transducer shell.  You'll be looking for a rectangular piece of tape that appears like a black or dark grey filter paper.  The filter paper / tape is covering 3 holes and you might see the 3 holes slightly through the filter paper / tape.  It should be the only tape or item that is affixed to the back of the transducer.  To spot it easier, you might carefully use a flashlight, which should reveal the 3 holes easier.

 

11) Once the tape has been located as well as the "3" holes, carefully take a small craft knife to cut the filter tape / paper around the middle hole.  The remove the section of the filter tape / paper -- leaving that hole open and allowing it to breathe -- this is the "bass mod" by removing a restriction that Sennheiser has put in place.

 

12) Carefully, flip the transducer over and insert into the cup.

 

13) Reinstall the 4 screws into their respective slots using a small phillips screwdriver.

 

14) Once both transducers have been modified and set back into the cups with the screws adhered, it's time to install the ear pads.

 

15) Installing the ear pads is relatively easy when you take your time.  Locate the lip around the outer rim on the bottom of the cup.

 

16) Place the lip under the tabs on one side of the cup.

 

17) Then, using your finger and thumb, carefully push the other side of the ear pad inwards towards the middle, so that the lip moves in past the tab.  Then, set it into place under the tab.

 

18) You might have to perform this same activity to ensure the lip of the ear pad is secured under the tabs (10 or so of them) that are on the cup facing of the headphone.

 

19) With the ear pads in place, try out your Sennheiser HD-428 headphones with your favorite music.  You will notice a *significant* increase in bass.  The bass should be of somewhat good quality and blend well with your music.  If you happen to be a completed bass freak, you could go for more holes to open up.  However, truly, just test one out initially as I feel that it will make enough of a dramatic difference to "wow" you.  Going for all 3 holes opened up is total insanity and that's where I started -- not knowing how much bass would be produced by opening all 3 of them.  For me, after two songs, I was literally getting a migraine after 7 minutes of music.  The bass with 3 holes opened was easily more bass than the Beats headphones are capable of, and the Sennheiser HD-428 can do it without any batteries.  But, I can't attest to the quality of bass with all holes open and I can't be responsible for the pressure damage that could happen to your ear drums, so please tread carefully with this modification.

 

I found my HD-428 (s) headphones locally on eBay.  They were a refurbished pair, still sealed in the plastic bag and shrink wrap by Sennheiser -- this is apparently how they sell their refurbished HD-428s instead of putting them back into a new blister pack.  I picked my pair up for $40.00 just last week.  The highest I'd pay is $80.00, but there are plenty of sources to find it for less.  $80.00 is the MSRP price that places like Best Buy sells it for.

 

Best of luck to you.  Have fun and enjoy this modification, which clearly has the best bang for the buck return as only time is involved in the process, yet the results returned are dramatic.

How is the bass stock on the HD 428 for rap/hiphop? And how are the vocals of the HD 428?

post #9 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by dakanao View Post

How is the bass stock on the HD 428 for rap/hiphop? And how are the vocals of the HD 428?

 

The vocals are excellent.  The stock bass will come across as not very impressive.  However, others have stated that it can improve, with time and use of the headphones.  But, I'm still convinced that you'll had to perform the simple bass modification to truly get all the bass benefits that these headphones can offer.

 

With all of the headphones that I've purchased / used / modified, the HD-428 mod has been the most impressive mod for the cheapest cost to mod and the quickest time to perform the modification.  Other headphones have abilities to accept modifications, yet the results will be less impressive and one will have to certainly contribute more time and money towards the modification process.

post #10 of 29

Hi,  just did this mod on my HD448s (have come accross this mod before when looking for HD438 mods as well as pad mods), anyway - way more quantity of bass, a little more boomy, not as tight, but only a little bit, the small drop in quality is worth the increase in quantity in my opinion. Worth the improvement. Now sounds better out of an iPod. Before I only used these with a home receiver as that was the only way to get bass with these. Highs are still the same. These were very neutral from an iPod, not anymore.

 

Thanks for posting the walkthrough - took 5 minutes to do :)

 

Edit: Just did my HD428s as well - even more bass than the 448s, nice thumping bass with impact which was missing before.


Edited by Canuck99 - 7/2/12 at 7:24am
post #11 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by Canuck99 View Post

Hi,  just did this mod on my HD448s (have come accross this mod before when looking for HD438 mods as well as pad mods), anyway - way more quantity of bass, a little more boomy, not as tight, but only a little bit, the small drop in quality is worth the increase in quantity in my opinion. Worth the improvement. Now sounds better out of an iPod. Before I only used these with a home receiver as that was the only way to get bass with these. Highs are still the same. These were very neutral from an iPod, not anymore.

 

Thanks for posting the walkthrough - took 5 minutes to do :)

 

Edit: Just did my HD428s as well - even more bass than the 448s, nice thumping bass with impact which was missing before.

 

There are some options for "fine tuning" things a bit, if desired.  Possibly, the HD-438 is a bit too intensive as you've reflected.  You could go back to some sort of very light covering to use over the hole that you opened up.  Something more poreous than the standard tape that was on there comes to mind.  Possibly, a dryer sheet?  Or something else thin of that nature?

post #12 of 29

Yes - my thought was to re-cover the middle hole, open the other two holes and cover them with a thin material. The cups of the 428 and 448 are different on the inside, so maybe lining the cups once the holes have been opened may also change the sound. I will leave my 438 stock as a reference as it sounded the same as the 448 to my ears even though it is the bassy model of the line up. I really should open them up to see if the holes have been opened by Sennheiser, or if they are also all closed up, and post some pictures.


Edited by Canuck99 - 7/2/12 at 8:19am
post #13 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by Canuck99 View Post

Yes - my thought was to re-cover the middle hole, open the other two holes and cover them with a thin material. The cups of the 428 and 448 are different on the inside, so maybe lining the cups once the holes have been opened may also change the sound. I will leave my 438 stock as a reference as it sounded the same as the 448 to my ears even though it is the bassy model of the line up. I really should open them up to see if the holes have been opened by Sennheiser, or if they are also all closed up, and post some pictures.

 

Correct.  Clearly, the option for such a modification does exist.  There is enough clearance around the outer back shell of the driver housing to accept about a 1/8" thick layer of plasticine clay.  One would have to be careful not to cover the 3 vent holes with the clay, though.

post #14 of 29

Hmm, I had already done a similar mod, except i uncovered all three holes. However, i threw a cotton ball in there for dampening, and the bass increase did not seem significant to me, it just seemed to slightly increase and bring the phones closer to neutral. I will try removing the dampening tonight.

post #15 of 29
The difference between the hd428, 438, and 448 is that each have the three holes covered with a different material. He 438 had clear tape. Now that I have done the same mod to all three they all sound more bassy to me - no question the sound has changed a lot for my ears.

The 428s sounded too dark so I did a HD555 mod and removed the cloth covering the driver by cutting it away from the pads - and they are better now, more sparkle. This is not reversable. They used to be darkest of the three but are now the brightest sounding. They sound more like the Superlux 681 with lots of bass and bright trebble.

I have already removed the chrome from the 438s and cant help wondering if they would sound better if I used a dremel to open the back of the housing up as well as liberate the driver completely, and then putting the grill back. It would probably ruin them. I did get them very cheap.

Edit: Some pictures 263

263

Sorry to the OP for hijacking this thread.
Edited by Canuck99 - 7/2/12 at 5:21pm
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