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O2 AMP + ODAC - Page 165

post #2461 of 5250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorrofox View Post


It was me who introduced cables and I think it's valid. As I said earlier, since the ethos of the ODAC/O2 is transparency it would seem essential to use a cable between the two units which added as little colouration as possible. How is that not relevant?


Cables are important and as valid to get the best setup possible. But not in the context of Cu sounding different than Ag.

post #2462 of 5250
Personally I think cables need to be long enough to reach between components and terminated with good quality connectors. The end. They are not going to make equipment you don't like into equipment you do like.
post #2463 of 5250
Quote:
Originally Posted by krismusic View Post

Personally I think cables need to be long enough to reach between components and terminated with good quality connectors. The end. They are not going to make equipment you don't like into equipment you do like.

No, of course not but they can alter the character somewhat so they do matter to some. For instance my main headphones for critical listening are my Q701's. If I was given the choice of a cable which was bright and another on the dark side I'd prefer to go dark with the Q's. Given the cost of cables it's not unreasonable to want to try and get it right. I'd ideally like a cable which is transparent but I don't know if that exists.

My whole reasoning behind buying the O2 was to have one component in my system which is essentially neutral. Then, if at a later date I change my DAC, I will easily hear any difference there.
post #2464 of 5250
I've been switching phono cables around all day and have just noticed that my AC input socket is very loose (wobbly). I don't remember it being this way when I first installed the O2 and all I've done with it since then is swap the power supply for a beefier 1A version. I did note that the plug supplied with the original (500mA) supply was very tight compared to the new supply. I've tried wiggling it around and there doesn't appear to be any connection problem? Should I just ignore it? I don't intend to be removing it any time soon.
post #2465 of 5250

Spread the connectors apart abit...

 

A.

post #2466 of 5250
Quote:
Originally Posted by adydula View Post

Spread the connectors apart abit...

A.

You mean go inside the case?

Can I just take the back off or do I need to take both off for access?
post #2467 of 5250

Does the other AC supply still fit snugly?

 

A.

post #2468 of 5250
Quote:
Originally Posted by adydula View Post

Does the other AC supply still fit snugly?

A.

I'm scared to try it. It was so tight in the first place I'm worried if I try it again I might do some real damage. At least at the moment the amp is working fine. Anyway, I had a look at the screws and I don't have whatever tool it takes to get those out. They look like Torx heads but I'm not sure. I'd have to get into town to do something about that.

I'd kinda like to attempt some DIY anyway. This booster board piques my interest, as does the 0 Ohm impedance mod (whatever that is).
post #2469 of 5250
OK, I tried the original and it's still tight and the socket is still loose...
post #2470 of 5250

Well, that tells me something...

 

My two 02's, one I built and one I bought have the same AC input connector soldered on the board.

 

All of my AC to AC wall worts fit nice and snug with no real movement.

 

So one of your adapters must have an slightly different plug on it that it loose or the first one is so tight it mechancally could have opened the onboard connector somewhat and now you have a loose situtatuon.

 

You could go back to the place you bought the 02 or ac adapter, try another adapter or have the ac connector on board replaced and try the one that is loose now?

 

Its not hard to do, my units have simple Phillips head self tapping screws that make taking it apart simple.

 

Do you really hear any very noticeable difference between the two??

 

I honestly never have...if that's the case I would just use the better fitting one!

 

All the best

Alex

post #2471 of 5250
I don't hear any difference at all. Both plugs fit securely, it's just that the original is very tight. If I open it up is it possible to fix the socket myself? Going back to the manufacturer is not an option as he's in Switzerland and I'm in Scotland.
post #2472 of 5250
I'm thinking of buying a pair of Sennheiser HD650's. Will the O2 drive them ok?
post #2473 of 5250
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorrofox View Post

I'm thinking of buying a pair of Sennheiser HD650's. Will the O2 drive them ok?

 

The O2 will drive them just fine in low gain. High gain will cause distortion.

 

That said, I do prefer using my Crack compared to my O2 or C421 with the HD650's. They all drive them fine however.


Edited by syphen606 - 4/6/14 at 8:22pm
post #2474 of 5250
Quote:
Originally Posted by syphen606 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorrofox View Post

I'm thinking of buying a pair of Sennheiser HD650's. Will the O2 drive them ok?

The O2 will drive them just fine in low gain. High gain will cause distortion.

That said, I do prefer using my Crack compared to my O2 or C421 with the HD650's. They all drive them fine however.
I like the Crack in general for its sound. Crack is some good stuff. rolleyes.gif
post #2475 of 5250
Quote:
Originally Posted by syphen606 View Post

The O2 will drive them just fine in low gain. High gain will cause distortion.

That said, I do prefer using my Crack compared to my O2 or C421 with the HD650's. They all drive them fine however.

So unity gain will drive them to decent volumes?

Quote:
Originally Posted by miceblue View Post

I like the Crack in general for its sound. Crack is some good stuff. rolleyes.gif

I've heard that smily_headphones1.gif
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