Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Dedicated Source Components › TURNTABLE SETUP Questions thread - don't start a new thread, ASK YOUR QUESTION HERE!
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

TURNTABLE SETUP Questions thread - don't start a new thread, ASK YOUR QUESTION HERE! - Page 23

post #331 of 2460

Just FYI;

 

I bought a LED desk lamp with led controller to for my TT and I found out that this controller is causing interference on my audio system. Every time I touch the metal part of the lamp the noise is getting louder. I believe the controller is distorting the line voltage due to harmonics. Unplugging it from wall outlet and all noise are gone. Lesson learned stay with the old skul incandescent lamp for lighting the TT. 


Edited by basman - 12/31/12 at 8:58am
post #332 of 2460

Are you running a conditioner of any sort? Just wondering as I want to add LED light strips to my recently built rack. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by basman View Post

Just FYI;

 

I bought a LED desk lamp with led controller to for my TT and I found out that this controller is causing interference on my audio system. Every time I touch the metal part of the lamp the noise is getting louder. I believe the controller is distorting the line voltage due to harmonics. Unplugging it from wall outlet and all noise are gone. Lesson learned stay with the old skul incandescent lamp for lighting the TT. 

post #333 of 2460
Quote:
Originally Posted by basman View Post

Just FYI;

 

I bought a LED desk lamp with led controller to for my TT and I found out that this controller is causing interference on my audio system. Every time I touch the metal part of the lamp the noise is getting louder. I believe the controller is distorting the line voltage due to harmonics. Unplugging it from wall outlet and all noise are gone. Lesson learned stay with the old skul incandescent lamp for lighting the TT. 

Yes - correct. Avoid anything that is plugged into a wall and does not end with a incadescent lamp (bulb) in the close proximity of the turntable.

 

For winter time - if your cartridge prefers hotter climate than your heating, like 19 degrees Centigrade room temperature and cart thriving at 23 degree Centigrade ( Benz ), and you like it at 19, an old school lamp of say 40-50 W from about 20 cm above the LP/platter will do the trick. Caution - fasten that lamp in one way or another, so that it does not fall on the TT below most likely wrecking havoc with cartridge and record.

 

If you need such "light heating" - avoid halogen bulbs, because they can beam the heat to much  smaller surface than entire LP, and if you leave the record on the stationary platter with such light on, a badly warped record may result.

 

You might want to get yourself a digital thermometer with a probe positioned in the vicinity of the cartridge - they can be very inexpensive yet will yield quite an improvement in sound with more temperature sensitive cartridges in winter time under above mentioned conditions. A gooseneck mounted incadescent lamp can be easily adjusted a couple cm either way in order to get the temperature wanted in the vicinity of the cart.

post #334 of 2460

Ok, I've narrowed down my options from Craigslist again haha. These are the prices without trying to bargain.

  • Kenwood Kd-1500 & Technics Sl-b202, $150 for both, although I'm more interested in the Kenwood by itself, but seller didn't list prices for the tt's by themselves.
  • Kenwood Kd-3070, $100 w/ brand new At96e cart, or $80 w/o cart
  • Denon Dp-31L, $150
  • Pioneer Pl-4, from above seller, no price either
  • Yamaha PL-350 with At120e, $40
  • Pioneer Pl-950, no price yet
  • Kenwood Kd-12rb for $65 I think

 

So what do you guys think are my best options?  I'm thinking one of the Kenwoods, specifically the 3070 or the 1500, or the Denon.


Edited by steven-026 - 12/31/12 at 8:21pm
post #335 of 2460
Quote:
Originally Posted by MorbidToaster View Post

Are you running a conditioner of any sort? Just wondering as I want to add LED light strips to my recently built rack. 

 

 

No, all powered by an AVR and surge protection only. I might need a line conditioner and try it again.

post #336 of 2460
Quote:
Originally Posted by analogsurviver View Post

Yes - correct. Avoid anything that is plugged into a wall and does not end with a incadescent lamp (bulb) in the close proximity of the turntable.

 

For winter time - if your cartridge prefers hotter climate than your heating, like 19 degrees Centigrade room temperature and cart thriving at 23 degree Centigrade ( Benz ), and you like it at 19, an old school lamp of say 40-50 W from about 20 cm above the LP/platter will do the trick. Caution - fasten that lamp in one way or another, so that it does not fall on the TT below most likely wrecking havoc with cartridge and record.

 

If you need such "light heating" - avoid halogen bulbs, because they can beam the heat to much  smaller surface than entire LP, and if you leave the record on the stationary platter with such light on, a badly warped record may result.

 

You might want to get yourself a digital thermometer with a probe positioned in the vicinity of the cartridge - they can be very inexpensive yet will yield quite an improvement in sound with more temperature sensitive cartridges in winter time under above mentioned conditions. A gooseneck mounted incadescent lamp can be easily adjusted a couple cm either way in order to get the temperature wanted in the vicinity of the cart.

 

Thanks for the insight and valuable info.

post #337 of 2460

I have another question regarding electrical interference, But might be a stupid question, but I'll shoot anyway.

 

I have an Aune T1, a small tube headphone amp. I am planning to get the NAD PP2 phono preamp. Both of them has external power adapters.

Would it introduce any interference if I stack the tubeamp on top of the preamp to save space? Will the heat from the tubeamp affect the phono stage? 

post #338 of 2460
Quote:
Originally Posted by penmarker View Post

I have another question regarding electrical interference, But might be a stupid question, but I'll shoot anyway.

 

I have an Aune T1, a small tube headphone amp. I am planning to get the NAD PP2 phono preamp. Both of them has external power adapters.

Would it introduce any interference if I stack the tubeamp on top of the preamp to save space? Will the heat from the tubeamp affect the phono stage? 

Oh dear - here we go, again , for the (n+1) times. But I will do it, as those n times were performed in the homes of audiophiles with humming/buzzing phono setups.

 

Phono gear has lower, in case of MC cartridges MUCH ( on average 20 dB or so, 10 times ) lower output levels and hence amplification gain for MM carts averages about 40 dB and for MC about 60 dB. If you allow  for dumping any hum, radio frequency interference, cell phones in the vicinity of cart, table, cables leading to your phono input, phono stage - you ARE asking for trouble. This assumes an asymmetrical unbalanced connection of phono, that is to say RCA jack on the end of your cablew from the pick up arm. About 99 % of phono setups in the world - symmetrical balanced inputs are by definition almost unaffected, but if you are among those 1 %, you probably know why you did that extra mile already, so I won't be covering these.

 

It depends on your equipment and your requirements. I grew totally zero tolerance for hum - I always strive to get clean, evenly sounding "white/pink noise" from my phono setups - NO hum audible as identifiable as such. As this is head-fi, no need to emphasize this is best listened to with good sealing headphones and IEMs. It can not be achieved in each and every case, but once you do get it right for the first time and get accustomed to the sound, you will find just how much havoc is wrought by hum that is generally accepted as "inaudible enough".

 

Manufacturers of GOOD phono preamps went to great lenghts in order to get any noise, hum, RFI, etc, as low as it can get. Say that your phono preamp sits on top or on the shelf just above any other component - be it tuner, cassette deck, CD player, equalizer, power amp, whatever - listen to the hum/noise with headphones/IEMs with the bare minimum of equipment on necessary to get the signal from your table to the HP/IEMs - and that "minimum on" means not only that your other gear is switched off by their respective power switch buttons, but unplugged from the wall outlet ! Depending on your grounding arrangements, check that whatever minimum remained on, it IS grounded/earthed. You can try reversing the AC wall plug(s) in order to find a combination producing the minimum hum. Assume that now you have the absolute minimum pick up of hum, that this is your best possible result with this setup. Now start plugging in WITHOUT swithing them on all other components in the system, one at a time. It should come as no surprise to you that the ocean of silence you fought so fard to achieve is seriously compromised by the first thing you will plug into a wall.

If this happens, switch the offending component on - if you are lucky, hum will diminish, if not, it will get worse. Try reversing the AC wall plug. Repeat with other components in the system, one at a time, than in a concert - you should find which ones are detrimental/offending and which ones are not.

 

In general - you will have to establish some physical distance between phono stage and offending components. Of these, power transformer in the power amp will always be the biggest offender - that is why the hum on phono is nearly impossible to get rid of in integrated amplifiers/receivers - it is

in the same box with your phono and there is (pretty much, if you are good DIYer with electronics, might try some kind of additional shielding within the amp ) nothing you can do about it. Phono is the principal reason for separate preamps and power amps; in CD era with high level source/low preamp gain integrated amps WITHOUT phono stages are ever more numerous - no serious hum problems here.

 

With MC, and particularly VLOMC ( VERY low output moving coil, 0.15 mV/5cm/sec and less ), you will become expert hum extortionist - but expect some audiophoolePhille cables are utterly uncapable of achieving good results nomatterwhat. There is one cable I have tried and is heartily recommended for even the lowest output carts - XLO phono cable. Ebay is the ultimate measure of real quality of anything in the long run - and prices

reflect that.

 

If you are aesthetic about your audio gear positioning, if you run ultraexpensive cables tailor made to lenghts with an inch tolerance for moving your gear either place - the above described is your worst nightmare come true. But it is the only way to get your phono silent as it should be.

 

Forgot one thing - needless to say, if you must run signal and power cable in close proximity, ALWAYS try to cross them at 90 degrres and do not run them parallel or even bundle them parallel together.

 

Ultimate in phono silence achievable ? Benz TR cartridge ( 0.1 mV/5cm/s, output impedance 1 (one ) ohm ), either good transformer or head amp/MM imput combo or good MC stage - listening with Stax Lambda Pro /SRM1 MK2 to music > lifting the cartridge/arm from the groove > listening to the remaining residual noise > putting off the HPs and listening to the noise of a quiet lab will have the effect of someone pushing you abruply from the quiet of your home into busy city street.

 

No kidding.

 

For the ultimate in this hum extermination, best time of the day is quiet of the night, when "everything" else is sleeping, say around 2:00 AM. Funny thing - the improvement it brings is very audible at thundering levels of music too.


Edited by analogsurviver - 1/1/13 at 1:34am
post #339 of 2460
Quote:
Originally Posted by steven-026 View Post

Ok, I've narrowed down my options from Craigslist again haha. These are the prices without trying to bargain.

  • Kenwood Kd-1500 & Technics Sl-b202, $150 for both, although I'm more interested in the Kenwood by itself, but seller didn't list prices for the tt's by themselves.
  • Kenwood Kd-3070, $100 w/ brand new At96e cart, or $80 w/o cart
  • Denon Dp-31L, $150
  • Pioneer Pl-4, from above seller, no price either
  • Yamaha PL-350 with At120e, $40
  • Pioneer Pl-950, no price yet
  • Kenwood Kd-12rb for $65 I think

 

So what do you guys think are my best options?  I'm thinking one of the Kenwoods, specifically the 3070 or the 1500, or the Denon.

Kenwood 1500, if you prefer drive belt table (that arm bearing looks do inspire comfidence) or 3070 or Denon Dp-31L if you prefer direct drive. SL-B202

is nothing to write home about,but it is a nice belt driven table; you can always make some buck selling it if it proves not to your liking. Do not have experience with any of the options listed, so guys who have first hand experience should chime in if there is anything regarding known issues of these tables you should be aware of prior to purchase.

post #340 of 2460
Calling all Rega owners!

I have the option of buying a 3 year old Rega P2, fitted with the white belt and a nearly-new Ortofon 2M Blue, for $500. With the RB250 and the upgrades, would this be a better choice than a new RP1? I would probably upgrade the MDF platter to glass somewhere in the near future.
post #341 of 2460
Quote:
Originally Posted by calipilot227 View Post

Calling all Rega owners!
I have the option of buying a 3 year old Rega P2, fitted with the white belt and a nearly-new Ortofon 2M Blue, for $500. With the RB250 and the upgrades, would this be a better choice than a new RP1? I would probably upgrade the MDF platter to glass somewhere in the near future.

No experience with either. But did hear the "7" and liked it better than the TOTL "9" - just FYI.

post #342 of 2460

Good thing the 9 is discontinued then now, eh? :D

 

I want to audition the P8 asap.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by analogsurviver View Post

No experience with either. But did hear the "7" and liked it better than the TOTL "9" - just FYI.

post #343 of 2460
Quote:
Originally Posted by calipilot227 View Post

Calling all Rega owners!
I have the option of buying a 3 year old Rega P2, fitted with the white belt and a nearly-new Ortofon 2M Blue, for $500. With the RB250 and the upgrades, would this be a better choice than a new RP1? I would probably upgrade the MDF platter to glass somewhere in the near future.
Yes much much better , the first P1 is a bit of a dog
post #344 of 2460
Quote:
Originally Posted by analogsurviver View Post

No experience with either. But did hear the "7" and liked it better than the TOTL "9" - just FYI.

Really ? The P9 is in a different league to the 7
post #345 of 2460
Quote:
Originally Posted by KT66 View Post


Really ? The P9 is in a different league to the 7

Unfortunately, none of them heard in my system - based on what I heard at the fair; everybody that heard the same said similar, could be the rest of the system used then simply suited 7 better.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Dedicated Source Components
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Dedicated Source Components › TURNTABLE SETUP Questions thread - don't start a new thread, ASK YOUR QUESTION HERE!