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Sennheiser HD 700 Impressions Thread - Page 124

post #1846 of 3253

I would not recommand HRT microstreamer, it will be too dry for the HD700, at least for my taste

post #1847 of 3253
Would you get this headphone over audeze lc2 if audeze was cheaper?
post #1848 of 3253
Awesome, exactly what I was expecting to hear. Think I'll be going with the Geek Out 450 or 720.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cocolinho View Post

I would not recommand HRT microstreamer, it will be too dry for the HD700, at least for my taste
post #1849 of 3253
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilly87 View Post

Awesome, good to know its worthy. How do you find the HD700 bass with it? I like slightly more bass than neutral, but not ever boomy; the Amperior and HD25 are pretty perfect quantity wise, a bit too much sometimes and maybe not quite enough others, but overall very satisfying and representative of the recording with just a touch extra for a nice tactile response. Would I be accurate in guessing this combo might have a step or two less quantity-wise, but better depth and texture?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark-sf View Post

I have have an XM6 with the buffers installed. It drives the HD700's just fine when using my MB Air or Mini. Its no replacement for a Lyr2 but is very clean and there is no harshness. Quite similar to my time with the Asgard 2.  I use it mostly with my DT1350's at work now and it's low end goes very deep while maintaining the highs that the 1350's do so well. Not the cheapest portable solution but keeps me happy.

You are comparing apples and oranges in my opinion as the HD700 being open-back has a different quality of bass to the ones you referred to as well as my 1350's. I find it similar to comparing bass in a car versus a large room. Some may prefer the pressure induced bass over the other the wavelength supported type especially if one is not regularly exposed to a home system that can legitimately go down into the 20's.

Having said that I don't believe you'll find elevated bass from the 700's unless you EQ them which is possible with the XM6. And even elevated it will have a different characteristic than you are used to, so I would recommend that you have a trial period with the 700's of a few weeks before making a decision.
post #1850 of 3253
Quote:
Originally Posted by bahamot View Post

Would you get this headphone over audeze lc2 if audeze was cheaper?
Keep in mind that I am still in my honeymoon period with the hd700 at 2 weeks ownership, but I am currently liking my hd700 sound straight out of my dx90 as well and sometimes better than my lcd2.2 out of my desktop setup using the Mjolnir. It has a more forward mid than the LCD which may contribute, but it has a much cleaner sound that pushes forward the details and the textures. The lcd2 is very euphoric/ephonic which is addictive, but the hd700 is very fun right now hearing all the new details, and having it in a portable and very comfortable format. I also got to hear the hd700 on some nice gear this weekend at the Seattle headfi meet and can say the hd700 scales very nicely as well. I will probably end up with a bh crack amp for the tube sound to gain some of the lcd2's euphoric nature. Btw, the hd700 while sharing a lot of the hd800's nature is different enough that I will likely get both once I feel like buying the hd800's expensive supporting equipment.
post #1851 of 3253
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eee Pee View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barra View Post
 

Has anyone found a reasonably priced balanced cable for their HD700. I paid $150 for my awesome LCD2 balanced cable, but cannot seem to find anyone with the HD700 connectors that don't sport a ridiculous pricetag.

Senn's HD 212, HD477, HD497 cable for about $20 and a Neutrik XLR for $5.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by DVass13 View Post
 

The cable itself is somewhat thin, but it is capable of a balanced termination. I was able to try out Eee Pee's cable at a meet up several months ago and ended up making my own. It's very simple to make. I even added some paracord from the Y-split down to the 4-pin XLR to give it a nice touch. End result was a very cheap balanced cable that suited my needs.

Ok, you guys got me curious so I ordered a replacement cable and the Neutrik 4-pin XLR. How do I figure out how to wire each wire correctly to the xlr? Then, how do I test my work without plugging it in and blowing up my Mjolnir and HD700? Also, does any solder sound good or do I need some special silver stuff? Finally, do I need some shrink wrap or something for the connection? As you can tell, this will be my first HP wiring attempt.

post #1852 of 3253
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barra View Post
 

 

 

Ok, you guys got me curious so I ordered a replacement cable and the Neutrik 4-pin XLR. How do I figure out how to wire each wire correctly to the xlr? Then, how do I test my work without plugging it in and blowing up my Mjolnir and HD700? Also, does any solder sound good or do I need some special silver stuff? Finally, do I need some shrink wrap or something for the connection? As you can tell, this will be my first HP wiring attempt.

 

The easiest way to tell is to take a multimeter to it. Otherwise I'm not sure if you will be able to tell. You might also need some fine-grit sandpaper. If I remember correctly, the individual wires are coated with colored insulation. You need to remove this to solder to the pins. And any solder should do.

post #1853 of 3253

I realize that, but what I am trying to convey is that I like slightly above average quantity with good punch, extension, and natural decay. I have demoed the HD800 and LCD 2 and 3, all multiple times and once very recently.

 

Put it this way: I'd be disappointed if the level of subbass punch was closer to the HD800 than LCD-3.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark-sf View Post


You are comparing apples and oranges in my opinion as the HD700 being open-back has a different quality of bass to the ones you referred to as well as my 1350's. I find it similar to comparing bass in a car versus a large room. Some may prefer the pressure induced bass over the other the wavelength supported type especially if one is not regularly exposed to a home system that can legitimately go down into the 20's.

Having said that I don't believe you'll find elevated bass from the 700's unless you EQ them which is possible with the XM6. And even elevated it will have a different characteristic than you are used to, so I would recommend that you have a trial period with the 700's of a few weeks before making a decision.
post #1854 of 3253


AK240 synergy with HD700 is glorious smily_headphones1.gif
Edited by Levanter - 8/1/14 at 11:45pm
post #1855 of 3253
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilly87 View Post
 

That is what I understood you to mean. If you have heard properly driven HD800's and find their bass wanting then I believe you will be disappointed in the HD700s in that area. They do not have the big ring radiator driver, but a smaller variant that is still dynamic. I feel the 700's have better balance than the 800's as there is less treble elevation but in neither do I hear the punchy bass that one gets from a planar or driver like the LCD3. I do prefer the 700's over the LCD3 but more for their top-end extension and presentation. I will trade that for a punchier and more visceral bass. For reference, if I had to choose one of the LCD series it would be the LCD-X as it is closest to the 700's in overall balance in my opinion.  

post #1856 of 3253
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barra View Post
 

 

 

Ok, you guys got me curious so I ordered a replacement cable and the Neutrik 4-pin XLR. How do I figure out how to wire each wire correctly to the xlr? Then, how do I test my work without plugging it in and blowing up my Mjolnir and HD700? Also, does any solder sound good or do I need some special silver stuff? Finally, do I need some shrink wrap or something for the connection? As you can tell, this will be my first HP wiring attempt.

 

The above diagram is a good starting point., regular solder is fine.

 

If you acquired a Senn replacement cable you'll need to remove their clear protective coating as noted by DVass13 after you strip the ends, and I also found a very fine grit emery cloth worked best.

As for shrink wrap, it's always a good idea, I was able to cover each pin after soldering and and progressively larger sizes over one another where the cable exits the connector, one can also use a hot glue gun and fill the cavity where you do the soldering as an extra precaution against stress and shorting.

post #1857 of 3253
Interesting. I hope I can demo the 700s, along with the T90s, at the meet next week...I have to figure out exactly what level of bass I really want.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark-sf View Post

That is what I understood you to mean. If you have heard properly driven HD800's and find their bass wanting then I believe you will be disappointed in the HD700s in that area. They do not have the big ring radiator driver, but a smaller variant that is still dynamic. I feel the 700's have better balance than the 800's as there is less treble elevation but in neither do I hear the punchy bass that one gets from a planar or driver like the LCD3. I do prefer the 700's over the LCD3 but more for their top-end extension and presentation. I will trade that for a punchier and more visceral bass. For reference, if I had to choose one of the LCD series it would be the LCD-X as it is closest to the 700's in overall balance in my opinion.  
post #1858 of 3253
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilly87 View Post

Interesting. I hope I can demo the 700s, along with the T90s, at the meet next week...I have to figure out exactly what level of bass I really want.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark-sf View Post

That is what I understood you to mean. If you have heard properly driven HD800's and find their bass wanting then I believe you will be disappointed in the HD700s in that area. They do not have the big ring radiator driver, but a smaller variant that is still dynamic. I feel the 700's have better balance than the 800's as there is less treble elevation but in neither do I hear the punchy bass that one gets from a planar or driver like the LCD3. I do prefer the 700's over the LCD3 but more for their top-end extension and presentation. I will trade that for a punchier and more visceral bass. For reference, if I had to choose one of the LCD series it would be the LCD-X as it is closest to the 700's in overall balance in my opinion.  

Here are some thoughts that might help:

Forgetting about the 009 and the orphius which I have never heard, the LCD-x tops the TOTL HPs for me as the best all around hp across all genres - even better than the Abyss IMO. The hd800 is an awesome second in its uniqueness, but even with the best set ups is hardly a satisfying bass hp - and only great with limited genres (still going to get one 😗). However, the hd700 bring the mids forward along with some mid bass which provides more bass impact, but more importantly lifelike bass texturing that you can feel. Fart cannons can be fun, but the texturing for me is what creates the emotional connection to the music which the hd700 provides in spades even through portable sources. My lcd2 has a very satisfying bass quality that is euphoric, but the presentation is further back requiring a better source and more power to compete on texturing which the LCD2 excels as well. If you add the bh crack tube amp to the equation the hd700 gains the euphoric quality of the LCD2 but with greater clarity for the SQ win. Personally, I will keep both the lcd2 and the hd700 as I like them both. But if I didn't have the lcd2, I would go straight for the LCD-x for the best overall sound. Maybe you can find a used LCD-x for close to a new lcd2 price and have the best of all worlds?
Edited by Barra - 8/2/14 at 10:38am
post #1859 of 3253
Sounds like a good idea, but I'm not interested in spending more than $600-$700. I'm not thrilled about going over $500, or even that high to begin with; I might just get a new source and a 250 ohm DT990 and call it quits. I really just want a fun open can that is durable and has a v-shape sig and big soundstage. Headphones really aren't worth this much to me, not when I think about what else I could use that money for, what other good it could be doing in the world.
Edited by Gilly87 - 8/2/14 at 11:50am
post #1860 of 3253
The hd700 definitely is not v sig, and lcd2 really isn't either - they are more about thick layered texturing that you can feel and detailed lifelike sound that draws you emotionally into the music. There are a lot of v sig HPs out there that sound fun for a whole lot cheaper if that is your preferred sig.
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