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The StratoKOSSter – A closed DIY headphone based on the Koss KSC-75 driver and Grado cup design - Page 9

post #121 of 191

nothing too fancy, lol. I haven't recabled, or really seated the drivers properly in the dj 100 shell. i literally just liberated the drivers, threaded the kcs75 TRS through the now-empty dj 100 cable hole, and then stuck the drivers where the dj 100 ones were. with the face plates screwed down, and pads on, they don't move around at all, even when on-the-go, so I haven't had the opportunity to recable them, properly situate the drivers, or anything else along those lines.

post #122 of 191
Made a few updates...now using some drivers lifted from a pair of Sportapros...removed the plastic protective cover, replaced them with homemade brass mesh ones.







I am the world's worst solderer, but managed to get a standard SR80i cable in there too...
Edited by fleasbaby - 8/16/13 at 9:36am
post #123 of 191
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleasbaby View Post

Made a few updates...now using some drivers lifted from a pair of Sportapros...removed the plastic protective cover, replaced them with homemade brass mesh ones.

 

Right on! How is it sounding? I am loving my sportapro drivers (on parts express headband) :)

post #124 of 191

Very nice...slightly warmer than my usual cup of tea, which is Grado, but lots of good detail. I suspect them of not going as deep with their bass, but you can't have it all with a pair of drivers jacked from a pair of $16 headphones can you...I am quite happy with them.

 

Switched the black screens on the outside out for brass screens to match the interior. Had a nightmare moment putting them back together. The left side suddenly lost 95% of its volume. I pulled it out, re-soldered and re-assembled. Everything's fine now.

 

Grief soldering is a b*tch, and soldering Koss drivers is even worse...


Edited by fleasbaby - 8/17/13 at 6:47pm
post #125 of 191
Thread Starter 

Quote:
Originally Posted by fleasbaby View Post

Very nice...slightly warmer than my usual cup of tea, which is Grado, but lots of good detail. I suspect them of not going as deep with their bass, but you can't have it all with a pair of drivers jacked from a pair of $16 headphones can you...I am quite happy with them.

 

If you want more lower end extension you have to use leather pads. Of course this will make them even warmer sounding. In compensation it is necessary to dampen the cups with a disc of foam and close the cups. This will bring up the mids and the result will be a fairly balanced sound. My experiments have shown that the 75 drivers respond best to this mod.

post #126 of 191
Quote:
Originally Posted by stratocaster View Post

 

If you want more lower end extension you have to use leather pads. Of course this will make them even warmer sounding. In compensation it is necessary to dampen the cups with a disc of foam and close the cups. This will bring up the mids and the result will be a fairly balanced sound. My experiments have shown that the 75 drivers respond best to this mod.

 

Thanks Stratocaster...whenever I place my hands over the ends of my cups they sounds like my Grados do when I do the same thing. I assume the dampening foam takes care of this...which brand do you use by the way? And is it strictly necessary to line the cups? Will a simple disc of medium density foam that fills behind the drivers do it? I want to keep everything fully reversible.

post #127 of 191
Thread Starter 

What MAKES the StratoKOSSter sound is the combination of (p)leather pads  and the closing of the cups. The internal damping is of minor importance, although it takes care of reflections and reverb. If I use Grado pads on my StratoKOSSters they sound like s**t.

post #128 of 191
Duly noted...I have someone thinking about turning me a pair of closed cups...The next step is the pads clearly....
post #129 of 191
Thread Starter 

After having given away all my StratoKOSSters and after having got somewhat sentimental about that, I finally built myself a last pair of StratoKOSSters from some rosewood, ebony and aluminum I had still lying around. I think they came out quite nice. And, I still dig the StratoKOSSter sound.

 

 


Edited by stratocaster - 8/25/13 at 1:56am
post #130 of 191
Quote:
Originally Posted by stratocaster View Post

After having given away all my StratoKOSSters and after having got somewhat sentimental about that, I finally built myself a last pair of StratoKOSSters from some rosewood, ebony and aluminum I had still lying around. I think they came out quite nice. And, I still dig the StratoKOSSter sound.

Those look fantastic...aluminum cups are hard to come by at a civilized price...are you still using the KSC75 driver?
post #131 of 191
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleasbaby View Post
are you still using the KSC75 driver?

 

Yes, they provide the most linear FR

post #132 of 191

GTK...by the way, I like the way you turned the wooden inners to fit the whole width of the aluminum cups.

 

What cups are those, and have you tried this set up with some Grado/Magnum drivers?

post #133 of 191
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleasbaby View Post

What cups are those, and have you tried this set up with some Grado/Magnum drivers?

 

I made the rosewood cups a little bigger than the typical Grado cups to have a bigger 'chamber' behind the driver. 

 

And, no, I didn't try this setup with Grado/Magnum drivers. I sold my last Magnum setup some weeks ago. Simply can't listen to that 2kHz shout any more.

post #134 of 191
Quote:
Originally Posted by stratocaster View Post

 

Yes, they provide the most linear FR

 

I still have and use my Stratos' on a daily basis! LOL.

post #135 of 191
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleasbaby View Post


Those look fantastic...aluminum cups are hard to come by at a civilized price...are you still using the KSC75 driver?

Time to get uncivilized then. Once again places like goodwill and other thrift shops can be your best friend here. Aluminum candle holders can usually be found in various diameters and experience has shown me that they usually use a very soft aluminum to cast with (the type they use for some fence post caps, another source) making it incredibly easy to work with. You can also find used pepper mills made of various hardwoods which conveniently enough are already hollow. This stuff costs about 50 cents to a buck and a half so you can really afford to experiment. Napkin rings are another source they come in wood and metal but for some reason are harder to come by on the used market.

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