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DIY Dynamic UIEM[Follow Me on journey]

post #1 of 27
Thread Starter 

The title says it all!  I find it useless to do another Balanced armature CIEM, when I haven't seen any threads of people making Dynamic CIEM's.  Perhaps because it is more difficult due to venting issues, reverberation, resonance, and tuning issues.  I have absolutely EVERYTHING I need to make the CIEMs from UV tools, industrial grade acrylic, 360 degree rotation removable cables, sound dampers and more! I also am going to try something that has never been done in the Custom Dynamic IEM world.  I have purchased speaker polyester damper, and I will place the damper inside of the nozzle, and for a twist on things, I will also keep an almost perfectly 100% open shell, and I will line the walls and the rear of the driver with damper to absorb all echo, reverb, and natural resonance that could occur.  I am very excited about this project! here is a list of the features below that mine will havebiggrin.gif

  • Custom 360 Degree Removable MMCX cable
  • 15mm mylar neodymium driver 20hz-20Khz
  • Mid-centric Frequency w/boosted vocals
  • full shell and sound bore damper
  • 16ohm impedance
  • Ambient Noise control
  • Bass control
  • Industrial acrylic/plastic
  • UV-cure Adhesive for extreme noise isolation

Gold-metallic designs

ALL PARTS HAVE BEEN ORDERED-THIS PROJECT WILL BE FINISHED AT ALL COSTS!

This is being done for two reasons.  My own personal enjoyment and a local request from a band! This should be interesting to say the least! After I can present a product within the next few weeks, I will post pictures!  


Edited by delladood - 5/27/12 at 11:56pm
post #2 of 27

Good luck on your project, keep us posted.

post #3 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MuZo2 View Post

Good luck on your project, keep us posted.

Will do! I actually had a slight change of plans.  I am now doing a universal Flush-fit 15mm Dynamic.  The shell is going to look similar to the Westone UM3X shell except to fit the 15mm, I have to add a few centimeters to the center of the shell to fit that MASSIVE driver in there.  It is a three part shell that is going to be clamped and glued, and everything will be installed and done by hand.  I'm also going to coat any open spaces inside the driver with sound damper, to get the smooth frequency response.

post #4 of 27

Can I just ask how you know or will control how the driver will sound?

 

I want to try something like this too but I'm not sure where to get these drivers from and what they'll sound like, especially the balanced armatures from knowles. 

post #5 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arfan View Post

Can I just ask how you know or will control how the driver will sound?

 

I want to try something like this too but I'm not sure where to get these drivers from and what they'll sound like, especially the balanced armatures from knowles. 

the shape of the nozzle, the dampers(filters,) Driver placement, amount of air allowed into the driver, Size of driver, eartips...

post #6 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by delladood View Post

the shape of the nozzle, the dampers(filters,) Driver placement, amount of air allowed into the driver, Size of driver, eartips...

That's cool, can't wait to see how you do. Should help  me to do mine too once I have the time.

post #7 of 27

What tools will you use to calculate all this parameters & how do you plan to measure actual output ?

post #8 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MuZo2 View Post

What tools will you use to calculate all this parameters & how do you plan to measure actual output ?

well the housing of my drivers are 3 parts acrylic molds.  Basically I have taken a cast with silicone, poured in the plastic/acrylic and the housing comes out in a solid piece of plastic.  For assembly purposes, I use a jewelers dremel tool and cut the driver into 3 separate pieces.  I then take a mold of the 3 pieces and boom.  I pour acrylic into the 3 different molds, they come out solid, using sand paper on my dremel tool, I hollow out the shells for the driver and boom. As far as quality control... It's rather difficult because I don't have proper frequency testing tools.  What I can say is, the expensive UVA dental curing light that purchased helps ALOT.  I apply a line of UV cure adhesive around the driver, clamp and then use my Dental UV light to cure the adhesive.   The adhesive is basically identical to the cement used on Braces and dentures etc.  Because its going to be an open system dynamic driver... I don't mind airflow getting to it.  On a side note, the housing for the driver... I actually took an impression of nickel to fit the 15mm driver inside.  The nozzle size is the same as that of a westone UM3X. So it takes shure olives etc.

post #9 of 27

the shape of the nozzle, the dampers(filters,) Driver placement, amount of air allowed into the driver, Size of driver, eartips...

So all above parameters are not controlled or calculated so you dont know how its going to sound ?

post #10 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MuZo2 View Post

the shape of the nozzle, the dampers(filters,) Driver placement, amount of air allowed into the driver, Size of driver, eartips...

So all above parameters are not controlled or calculated so you dont know how its going to sound ?

Because of the frequency charts lol.  It should be fairly mid-centric.

post #11 of 27

How far are you into this project now?

post #12 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arfan View Post

How far are you into this project now?

pretty darn far.... So everyone I'm assuming was wondering how the whole UV tool works and how expensive and dangerous it is... Please view the following and read my disclaimer...  My westone UM3X had recently become lose where the cable/flex wire, meets the driver housing... A little dab of Light cure/UV adhesive, and 40 seconds of curing=NO MORE TWISTY CABLE:D

photo (6).JPG

 

photo (5).JPG

Disclaimer: If you do decide to purchase one of these tools... PLEASE use proper eyeware.  I will admit the my UV Dental glasses have not arrived yet, but I can assure you that I did not look anywhere near the light.  It is EXTREMELY dangerous to your eyesight to do look directly at the light. Fortunately, It did come with a small protection lens.

post #13 of 27

Are you dental technician ?

post #14 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MuZo2 View Post

Are you dental technician ?
haha no sir. I'm a crew member at a local fast food resturant(I'm going to be a senior In HS this year) my mom is a dental hygenist, I'm close with the owner of the practice that my Kim works at. So he told me where to get one and how to use it. I also have premium Adhesive/UV cure substance. Fixed my um3x like a charm and it only took 10 seconds exactly... The light is extremely painful to even be near....
post #15 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by delladood View Post

pretty darn far.... So everyone I'm assuming was wondering how the whole UV tool works and how expensive and dangerous it is... Please view the following and read my disclaimer...  My westone UM3X had recently become lose where the cable/flex wire, meets the driver housing... A little dab of Light cure/UV adhesive, and 40 seconds of curing=NO MORE TWISTY CABLE:D

 

 

I have to say that is really cool, how much does the acrylic you're using to make this and the uv light cost?

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