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Beyer T5p problem. Should I recable/resolder myself?

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
After a whole 2 months since I bought them brand new, my Beyerdynamic T5p is having problems with the left channel.
I've tested with multiple sources and with different headphones. Both tests lead me to believe that it's a problem with the T5p themselves.
The problem is the left channel will completely cut out or have a lot of static which is probably due to a connection problem. I tried fiddling around with the jack while it was plugged in but this had no effect. Then I tried moving the cable connecting to the cup/driver around and it would cut out depending on the angle it was at.
After thinking about how this would have happened as I take very good care of my headphones, I realize that the design of the carrying case crushes the portions of cable connecting into the cups which seems like a huge design flaw to me.

Anyway, I have no experience at all with opening headphones or soldering so I'm wondering what I should do?
The problem seems to be getting worse and it's very noticeable now.
I'm not totally deficient with using tools and can learn very quickly. Should I do it myself or sed them in as a defective pair? I currently don't have a secondary pair of headphones to use for the time being and I'm going on a trip this weekend.
So basically is it difficult to fix? If not, how would I go about doing this?
post #2 of 13

It sounds like your basic cable break. That doesn't usually happen with beyers as they tend to use pretty sturdy cabling, but unbreakable copper wire is yet to be invented.

 

I'm not 100% up-to-speed on the construction of the T5p, but if it's similar to the DT880 and DT770, fixing this should be a breeze if you have moderate soldering skills. Just pull a bit more of the cable through the rubber strain relief bit (which I'm hereby assuming is not physically attached to the cable), cut off the faulty bit and resolder. Probably do the same on both sides to keep things nice and even.

 

I'm not entirely sure how they keep you from pulling the cable out of the cup in this model-- the options are some little doodad on the cable that is larger than the diameter of the hole it feeds through, or if they kept it simple the cable will just be tied into a knot. If the former is used and it can not easily be placed back on the cable, simply apply the latter method.

 

Oh, I appear to have missed the part where you say you have no soldering experience. In that case, you should leave that to someone who has done this before. Soldering normal wire isn't very difficult but the wire used in headphones is a bitch to solder properly if you don't know what you're doing because it's coated and wrapped around a non-metal strength member.


Edited by CyBeR - 5/9/12 at 2:05pm
post #3 of 13

I would just have beyer fix it for you.

post #4 of 13
Thread Starter 
I'm not sure if the cable is covered by warranty =/
Does anyone have a video I can watch so I can determine if it's too hard?
post #5 of 13

-----------------


Edited by Grado77 - 5/18/12 at 2:21am
post #6 of 13
Thread Starter 
Ouch... I didn't want to have to send it in, especially since I think they'll charge me but it doesn't look like I have a choice.
post #7 of 13

I have never had too send in a pair of beyerdynamics but they repaired my friends t1s for free when they stopped playing audio all together, sadly I dont remember If he told me what the problem was exactly.

post #8 of 13
Quote:

Originally Posted by Grado77 View Post

 

I am not sold on rewire anyway. I've heard sets with stock and rewire and honestly, I don't hear alot of differences.

 

Not to start an argument but that's because there is no difference. If you hear a difference when replacing a wire, one of those wires was either defective or otherwise inadequate*. Not without reason can one not find a single objective and statistically significant test result of cables having any influence on sound at all (again assuming no defects such as oxidation and other issues that prevent an electrical signal from propagating properly).

 

Anyway. I've had beyerdynamic replace a driver on my DT880 once. They were very nice about it. The store I bought it from had disappeared and the local importer wanted to charge me for the job. So beyer offered that I send it to them directly and they had it back and fully functional within a week or so. I've also replaced the cable on that same pair once myself after a rather stupid move on my end that caused the tip of the mini-jack to snap off (3600826138_6375f76b08_z.jpg). The parts are actually pretty easy to come by, at least here in Europe. 

 

 

*) For instance, driving a twelve-cabinet line array through microphone cable is just a no-go. It can't handle the required current. 


Edited by CyBeR - 5/9/12 at 5:18pm
post #9 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CyBeR View Post

Not to start an argument but that's because there is no difference. If you hear a difference when replacing a wire, one of those wires was either defective or otherwise inadequate*. Not without reason can one not find a single objective and statistically significant test result of cables having any influence on sound at all (again assuming no defects such as oxidation and other issues that prevent an electrical signal from propagating properly).

Anyway. I've had beyerdynamic replace a driver on my DT880 once. They were very nice about it. The store I bought it from had disappeared and the local importer wanted to charge me for the job. So beyer offered that I send it to them directly and they had it back and fully functional within a week or so. I've also replaced the cable on that same pair once myself after a rather stupid move on my end that caused the tip of the mini-jack to snap off (3600826138_6375f76b08_z.jpg). The parts are actually pretty easy to come by, at least here in Europe. 


*) For instance, driving a twelve-cabinet line array through microphone cable is just a no-go. It can't handle the required current. 


Jeez...
And after posting about it on their facebook wall they told me to email them and they'd contact me directly.
It's been almost a full day with no response to both the repair email and their regular email addresses.
The connection seems to be deteriorating even more...
post #10 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by GL1TCH3D View Post


Jeez...
And after posting about it on their facebook wall they told me to email them and they'd contact me directly.
It's been almost a full day with no response to both the repair email and their regular email addresses.
The connection seems to be deteriorating even more...


did you email the us branch of beyerdynamic?

post #11 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SONIC BOOM View Post


did you email the us branch of beyerdynamic?
I emailed both and they said it's covered under warranty but I have to pay shipping.
post #12 of 13

Found this thread via Google.  After just over a month, my beloved T5Ps developed this same exact problem.  I've seen older models that had a 90' angle headphone connector.  I'm not sure if that was what your plug was, but mine's the one that comes straight out with a little rubber wrap that goes an inch past the REAN plug.

 

Anyways, I've read a few people having a similar problem.  I'm pretty miffed.  This is my second set of Beyerdynamic cans and my second set of problems.  Plus I live in South Korea so I'm trying to figure out where to get them serviced under warranty here to avoid having to ship to the states. 

post #13 of 13
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