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Donut-board/Pad-per-hole perfboard layouts?

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
So I just got my Cmoy circuit working on a solderless breadboard, and I'm ready to transfer it to my perfboard. It is the plain and simple "pad-per-hole" or "donutboard" perfboard, similar to the one seen here:

236

Problem is, I can't seem to wrap my head around how to best layout the components to minimize size, as well as how to connect everything. Are there any known layouts on how to do this? Or maybe some kind of helpful software that will let me experiment to find the best fit? I have 5 years hobby soldering experience, I did manage to solder my SMT opamps to DIP adapters, so complexity isn't an issue in terms of soldering. But any assistance on the layout would be greatly appreciated!

By the way, I know this question has been asked many times, I've used the search engine. But because everyone's answers are so old, all the linked images have been 404'd, and for some reason even the attached images have been deleted off this message board.
Edited by moeburn - 4/27/12 at 6:52pm
post #2 of 9

Fred_Fred and Tangent both have perfboard layouts.

 

You might have to ask Fred_Fred to point you to the correct thread...

post #3 of 9

I found Fred_Fred's thread

 

They both use a different type of perfboard, but you could

use some cut off resistor lead to simulate the tracks.

It just takes a little imagination.

post #4 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avro_Arrow View Post

I found Fred_Fred's thread

They both use a different type of perfboard, but you could
use some cut off resistor lead to simulate the tracks.
It just takes a little imagination.

Yeah, I've seen those, tangent's uses veroboard/protoboard and fred's uses stripboard. Maybe its because my brain is too tired at the moment, or maybe because its been so long since I delved into electronics hobbying, but it just seems too daunting to try and figure out how to do the same thing on donutboard.
post #5 of 9

I don't see a compelling reason to try and replicate my layout on PPH board. So much of my layout depends on strips of connected pads. In some places (think M-jumpers) I even went out of my way to make longer strips than Radio Shack gave me.

 

The closest tool I'm aware of that might help here is Fritzing. They do let you input the schematic by graphically drawing out a copy of your solderless breadboard prototype, but they do not have explicit support for direct transfer to perfboard. (It's on their wish list.) They do have a PCB layout tool with an autorouter, though, which might be useful to you in iterating your way to something you can transfer to perfboard.

 

If I wanted to do this (and I do not smily_headphones1.gif) I'd put the op-amp roughly in the center of that board and build out from there, following the schematic. Use hookup wire and bent component leads to make connections between pads.

post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tangent View Post

I don't see a compelling reason to try and replicate my layout on PPH board. So much of my layout depends on strips of connected pads. In some places (think M-jumpers) I even went out of my way to make longer strips than Radio Shack gave me.

The closest tool I'm aware of that might help here is Fritzing. They do let you input the schematic by graphically drawing out a copy of your solderless breadboard prototype, but they do not have explicit support for direct transfer to perfboard. (It's on their wish list.) They do have a PCB layout tool with an autorouter, though, which might be useful to you in iterating your way to something you can transfer to perfboard.

If I wanted to do this (and I do not smily_headphones1.gif ) I'd put the op-amp roughly in the center of that board and build out from there, following the schematic. Use hookup wire and bent component leads to make connections between pads.

Thanks for the info, Tangent. I actually made a custom-etched PCB for my old CMoy using auto-routing software, but over the years, so many of the traces had corroded or broken and had to be replaced with jumper wire, that it just wasn't worth it to try and repair it, and I'm all out of blank copper board and tshirt transfer paper to make a new one.
post #7 of 9

I think you will save a lot of trouble and strife if you just buy a small piece of strip board or a Radio Shack board,

 

Tangents website is a work of art with tons of info you really cant go wrong

 

cheers

FRED

post #8 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred_fred2004 View Post

I think you will save a lot of trouble and strife if you just buy a small piece of strip board or a Radio Shack board,

Tangents website is a work of art with tons of info you really cant go wrong

cheers
FRED

Actually I think I may have just found a donutboard layout on this forum!

http://www.head-fi.org/t/183397/need-help-with-cmoy-parts/30

350

If I'm not mistaken, that's a donutboard layout!

PS: Tangent, I would love to go to Radio Shack and get all your recommended parts, but Radio Shack has not existed in Canada for over 10 years.
Edited by moeburn - 4/28/12 at 6:11am
post #9 of 9
Thread Starter 
Just wanted to let you know, I used the above donutboard layout, slightly modified to fit the size of my components, and it works! Unforunately I got a little confused as to which side was up and which side was down, but luckily my opamps were SMT on DIP adapters, so I could easily just push the DIP pins through to the other side, effectively flipping the amp upside down.
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