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New Jecklin Float QA !!! - Page 42

post #616 of 663
Is it possible it is the cables? I had a problem like that recently, turned out to be a dodgy cable.
post #617 of 663
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audio Jester View Post

Is it possible it is the cables? I had a problem like that recently, turned out to be a dodgy cable.

 

As I've said, I've tested my Float QA in several systems, at local audio stores as well as at home. All those systems used different cables, including speaker cables, ranging from sub-$500 to over $5,000. It's pretty unlikely that all those cables I've used were all "dodgy cables."

 

Besides, in order to make sure the systems were not at fault, every time I tested the Float QA and found it problematic with each system, I replaced the Float QA with loudspeakers. All loudspeakers I've tested with the Float QA side-by-side worked perfectly.


Edited by songmic - 10/17/13 at 6:38pm
post #618 of 663

I have a few theories as to why this is happening, although I honestly don't think any one of them is a likely explanation...

 

1) In Germany, the mains electricity is 230V/50Hz, while in Korea it's 220V/60Hz. Maybe my Float QA was designed for optimal use in Germany, not Korea, and this difference is what's causing the problem. However, I've never had an experience where a small gap of 10V in mains electricity compatibility could cause such a drastic difference, to the point of rendering the audio component utterly unbearable to listen to. It is my understanding that most audio components are designed to work in a certain range, i.e. 100-120V or 220-240V. And I don't think it is the difference in frequency (Hz) that is causing this, either. I've ordered many products from Europe in the past, and I never had an issue like this.

 

2) QUAD told me that amps rated 30W or higher is recommended for driving the Float QA, ideally around 60W. But QUAD also told me it is okay to use amps that are rated above 60W. Most amps I've tested were greater than 60W (my Pathos Classic One is 70W, for example). However, maybe it's not so okay to use high-power amps, and this power overload is what's causing the crackling noises. We can also experience crackling noises and severe distortions in sound if we use a very high power amp with a high sensitivity headphone and crank the volume to the max, although this could damage your headphones.

However, this theory does not explain why the problem persisted even when I used 50W amps. QUAD is telling me they are using their 60W amp to drive my Float QA, and apparently it is working perfectly fine over there right now. Also, this does not explain why I cannot get my Float QA to satisfactorily loud volume with my 70W+ high power amps, while QUAD claims an amp rated 30W or above should be more than enough to achieve very loud listening levels.

 

3) Spritzer pointed me out that this could be a "bias" issue, although I'm not sure what bias exactly means. However, could a bias issue result in my Float QA malfunctioning in various systems I tried in Korea, while it works perfectly in Germany?

 

4) This sounds silly, but maybe my Float QA is working perfectly, it is producing sufficiently loud volume and only introduces noises and distortion at high volume levels. However, because my head is small - I honestly don't think so - the Float QA earpads (or speakers, or whatever you call it) is located too far away from my ears that to me, it sounds low volume? The Float QA headphone isn't that adjustable in size, and depending on your head size, your ears could stick to the speakers or maybe not touch them all. In my case, my ears touch the speakers but just barely.

post #619 of 663

I did think and was going to mention #1, however you said that your friend's Float sounded great and he's in Korea too. Did you check to see if he was using a conditioner/transformer/converter?

post #620 of 663
I just asked him, and he said that he is not using any conditioners or transformers.
 
What's really frustrating about this situation is that the Float QA doesn't work here but works perfectly over there. If my Float QA is indeed faulty, I could just send it back and have it repaired. It's a bit of a hassle, not to mention waiting time, but it can still be done one way or another.
 
However, if the company denies that there is any issue at all with my stuff, while I'm having a real problem with it over here, they won't fix it and I couldn't do anything about it. No viable solution whatsoever. I haven't heard from QUAD again, but if they still cannot find out what's the problem, then I don't know what the hell I'm supposed to do. Get it back, try it in my system to see that it is still not working here, take it to other audio stores in town and hook it up to more amps to see that it is still not working... what should I do? :( 

Edited by songmic - 10/17/13 at 8:26pm
post #621 of 663
If your friend has a setup that works maybe get someone with technical knowledge in Korea to look at both and figure out why yours is different? Do Quad have recommended repair people in Korea?
post #622 of 663

Quad has made repairs to units that were defective in the past.  There is no reason to think they are telling you it works fine if it doesn't.  Their track record shows that if there is something wrong to be fixed, they fix it.

 

You can either continue to work with them to get them working properly or you can give up, request a refund, and move on to something else..  

 

There is a risk associated with taking them back.  Only you can answer if its a level of risk you can tolerate.

 

Your frustration is clear, and understandable, but no secret answer of clarity is likely to come from an internet forum.

post #623 of 663

If it's messed up still when you get it back, take it to your friends place and swap HP/transformer box to atleast know which is at fault.

post #624 of 663
The amp driving the power supply is sending some DC current that gets the diaphragm to crash against one of the stators?
post #625 of 663

But he's tried several amps... not likely they all had DC output.

post #626 of 663
I would send it back to Quad. If it does not work it is really their problem, not yours.
post #627 of 663
Quote:
Originally Posted by songmic View Post

Also, I read what your problem was, but I think my problem is different from yours. The crackling noise was the only problem you had, otherwise you found it to be a very good sounding headphone. For my Float QA, the crackling noise was very much apparent and the sound became extremely distorted, making listening absolutely unbearable. On top of that, my Float QA's volume was low, and I couldn't get it to sound satisfactorily loud enough even with my 70W Pathos Classic One amp. Moreover, the soundstage was cramped.
 

 

Actually, crackling noise wasn't the only issue I had. It just became easier to type "crackling noise" rather than the entire explanation over and over. In short, the right driver sounded like it was blown at the time. There was indeed a crackling noise, but there was no signal apart from that half the time (as in, no music!). When the driver came back to life, the music sounded very distant much like the low volume issue you describe. I'd turn the volume up past listening levels and sometimes the driver would 'pop' and the volume would return, but when it did it sounded distorted as you describe. The right side would flutter in and out now and then, but overall the issues were a distorted sound to accompany the crackling, like not enough juice was being delivered to the driver.

post #628 of 663

Well, a faulty connection issue could certainly be hard to ID if it's getting bumped around during shipping.  Intermittent faults are a PITA.  It's a possibility.

post #629 of 663
Quote:
Originally Posted by MuppetFace View Post

 

Actually, crackling noise wasn't the only issue I had. It just became easier to type "crackling noise" rather than the entire explanation over and over. In short, the right driver sounded like it was blown at the time. There was indeed a crackling noise, but there was no signal apart from that half the time (as in, no music!). When the driver came back to life, the music sounded very distant much like the low volume issue you describe. I'd turn the volume up past listening levels and sometimes the driver would 'pop' and the volume would return, but when it did it sounded distorted as you describe. The right side would flutter in and out now and then, but overall the issues were a distorted sound to accompany the crackling, like not enough juice was being delivered to the driver.

 

Then maybe we're having similar issues. However, in your case, the driver came back to life, and the music sounded very distant. Sometimes the driver would pop and the volume would return. In my case, the volume was distant all the time. And if I tried cranking the volume up with my 70W amp, at max volume I was getting music that was just a bit loud, but not very loud enough for proper enjoyment. At about 80% or above of max volume, the distortion became unbearably severe. At least QUAD acknowledged the problem with your Float QA, but for mine, they have no clue.

post #630 of 663
Quote:
Originally Posted by songmic View Post
 

 

Then maybe we're having similar issues. However, in your case, the driver came back to life, and the music sounded very distant. Sometimes the driver would pop and the volume would return. In my case, the volume was distant all the time. And if I tried cranking the volume up with my 70W amp, at max volume I was getting music that was just a bit loud, but not very loud enough for proper enjoyment. At about 80% or above of max volume, the distortion became unbearably severe. At least QUAD acknowledged the problem with your Float QA, but for mine, they have no clue.

 

In either case I do recognize those symptoms, and it seems like not enough juice is reaching your headphones for some reason. Your amp is powerful enough, so that's not the issue. Something along the lines in your connection is causing problems.

 

Here's the rub: I only sent them my headphones. They tested them and said "we can't find anything wrong" and they were correct in my case. However I never sent them the power supply at first, and they just said "we'll replace the box, ship us back your old one when we send you the new one." In my case the fronts had visibly different jacks (white versus black). The new box worked fine for me. I did indeed send them my old one, but I only later asked if they found anything wrong, and the answer I got was  "the old stye connectors had issues." So I can't say 100% if they ever really heard anything wrong with my power supply.

 

Here's what I'd do. If you do indeed have a friend close by with one, have him come over and hook his power supply up to your setup. Plug both your headphones in and listen. Swap jacks, inputs, etc. This will help you narrow down the problem. If his stuff works fine from your rig and yours don't, well, I think you'd be within your right to ask for a replacement straight out from them. Otherwise the issue is probably on your end. In either case, you can always ask for a refund if you can't isolate the problem.

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