Are there any guides out there that will show me fully step my step, pictures preferred, to show me how to recable correctly.. If possible can you help me find one that lists the exact things to buy needed for the recable.. Thanks
I want to put a new cable on my SR80s
Gear mentioned in this thread:
- 6,207 Posts. Joined 11/2009
- Location: USA
- Select All Posts By This User
There might be some more detailed guides on building the headphone cable around here, just search.
Search youtube for videos on soldering if you need to more about how to do that. There might be videos on disassembling Grados and recabling them altogether.
1. 5-8 feet of Mogami starquad (2893 or 2534) - you can strip the outer pvc jacket and copper spiral shield with a utility blade or something, making the cable lighter and more flexible - length should be whatever you want it to be + 1 because of the bit of wiring that will have to go inside of the cups - use the white/clear wires for signal, blue/other colors for ground
2. solder stuffs: solder iron, solder flux (liquid or paste type), solder (Radioshack silver, Cardas Quad, or WBT silver), damp sponge for wiping the iron's tip
3. mini plug (Neutrik NYS231BG, Switchcraft 35HDBAU or 35HDNAU, etc.) or 1/4" plug (Neutrik NP3XB, DHC custom plug, Yarbo, etc.)
4. hair dryer
5. adhesive-lined heatshrink - 3/8" for the plug's strain relief if the cable is stripped and sleeved, 1/2" if the cable is unstripped; 1/2" for the y-split (or 3/8" may do), 1/4" for the headphone ends
6. general-purpose epoxy (don't get stuff that dries in one minute) - use this stuff to seal the interior of the connector after testing the cable and headphone
7. (optional, but I recommend it) paracord in whatever color(s) you want - this will be for sleeving the cable, you will need to remove the seven strands that make up the core, leaving you with neat and durable nylon braid tubing, you will need to strip the cable to use paracord - 1/2" nylon multifilament braid for unstripped cable
Heat your Grados' cups with a hair-dryer (~15 min.) and pull the cups off. Cover the baffles and grills with painter's tape before heating to prevent the drivers from taking on unnecessary heat.
Desolder the old cable and remove its cable ties (without cutting them) and use them as the strain reliefs for the new cable. Take note of what wires were where - red is for the right channel, and whatever color is in both sides are the ground wires (should be blue).
Solder in the new cable (same way the old one was soldered in), reheat the glue on the cups (you should remove glue from the driver housings and put it in the cups so you can reheat all of the glue without heating the driver) and quickly reassemble your Grados, et voilà! All done.
If the headphone is giving you reverse stereo, just switch the cups around.
Edit: you may need a small drill to drill out the rear end of the Neutrik NYS231 plug due to its tiny opening that is too small for 2534 wires + sleeving + heatshrink or unstripped 2534
Edited by Mad Max - 4/29/12 at 9:46pm