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Pro700 MKII Bass Mod - Page 2

post #16 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutchi MerenGue View Post

so assuming i ever manage to get my hands on some gel pads, there is no way they can naturally fit on my pro700's without using glue or tape?

Correct.

I'm in the process of double checking all of the earpad combinations to make sure that the beyer pads are needed to get the sound described. Unfortunately, when I removed the duct tape from the pads it stretched the plastic that holds the gel and foam in place making it feel a bit wrinkled, but it's not too bad. So, for any potential modders out there, refrain from using the type of tape that leaves residue when peeled off. It may help with that problem. If you did, just use alcohol to take the residue off.

EDIT:I finished with the combos, and I'm having second thoughts about the "GBH-1000". The 1000's sound deeper and smoother at the sacrifice of the highs and mids (slightly quieter), while the velour+cotton has more impact without lowering the highs and mids. The 1000's also handle distortion better than the velour+cotton, meaning that the distortion is less audible than the velours are, making it a bit more tolerable when blasting your ears. I apologize for anybody out there looking for the beyer gel pads to do the GBH-1000 mod.
Update: Come to find out the pads needed to be positioned correctly to sound good.

Update 2: Disregard my edit. I was talking about my older GBH-1000. The differences between GBH-1000 v1 and v2 is that v1's sound is more vieled because of the velour earpads. v2 is better than v1 in every aspect. After getting used to the gel, they seem to disappear on your head after you wear them for a couple minutes.
Edited by Trae - 7/14/12 at 10:32am
post #17 of 37
Thread Starter 

This is my final version guys. I'm tired of playing around with these headphones now. After re-soldering the headphone cable a few times, burning a part of my gel earpads, and many curse words, I have completed my little mod, and I'm very satisfied with the sound now.

post #18 of 37

Not really excited about putting tape on my new cans but the black gel cushions fit too loose not to....might as well do this mod while i'm at it, hmph :/

post #19 of 37
Thread Starter 

Good luck biggrin.gif The main thing to be concerned about his the cabling inside the headphone. Be REALLY careful to not snap the cabling out of the solder joints on the pcb. I've done it a couple times trying to put this thing together, and it led to hours of agony.

 

In the future, I'll remove the white paper stuff that covers the backside of the driver. I'm thinking that it should improve the bass quantity even more because the vents will be less restrictive on the sound.

post #20 of 37

are you using the foam discs it came with?

post #21 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutchi MerenGue View Post

are you using the foam discs it came with?


No, I'm using the DT250 foam discs.

post #22 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trae View Post

Good luck biggrin.gif The main thing to be concerned about his the cabling inside the headphone. Be REALLY careful to not snap the cabling out of the solder joints on the pcb. I've done it a couple times trying to put this thing together, and it led to hours of agony.

 

In the future, I'll remove the white paper stuff that covers the backside of the driver. I'm thinking that it should improve the bass quantity even more because the vents will be less restrictive on the sound.

Alright, will do. Hopefully everything goes smoothly. The OP states duct tape but would clear packing tape suffice? I've been pondering the technique to apply the tape and get it tucked into the cans, can you expand on that a bit? As far as the best, most effecient way of doing so. I have an idea, just want to see if i'm on the right track....I like to visualize things before going for the gusto. And speaking of cabling, any gains to be had by getting a custom cable made for these?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutchi MerenGue View Post

are you using the foam discs it came with?

No sir, I wanted to but couldn't get the pads to go on with them in place and even if I was able to I think it would just make the pads easier to fall off. Once I do the sound correction mod im gonna cut the foam down and listen with them in place and without to see if I can tell a difference.

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post #23 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by I<3SQ View Post

Alright, will do. Hopefully everything goes smoothly. The OP states duct tape but would clear packing tape suffice? I've been pondering the technique to apply the tape and get it tucked into the cans, can you expand on that a bit? As far as the best, most effecient way of doing so. I have an idea, just want to see if i'm on the right track....I like to visualize things before going for the gusto. And speaking of cabling, any gains to be had by getting a custom cable made for these?

That's what i used. If you have that wide packing tape, you'll have to use some scissors to cut them so that it's not as wide. This is because it will be taped on the driver itself if you don't, and it's easier to fold it around the plastic. Plus, If I didn't wrap them around like I did, I wouldn't be able to tuck in some cotton underneath it.

 

The main reason why I did it like that is because the pads were too big, and I didn't want to use something like double sided tape to put them on there. I wanted to make this mod as reversible as possible, and that's why I'm wondering whether I should remove that white paper stuff behind the driver or not.

 

What I did first was cut me off a piece of tape, wrap it around the circumference of the earpad (leave a little bit of room where your skin meets the earpad so the tape doesn't touch your skin). Then, you get a pair of scissors and cut the tape so that it will neatly fold underneath without covering anything. Just make sure that you have the screws hanging in the holes underneath the earpad before screwing it in. It makes it a ton easier, so you don't have to play around trying to put in the screws with the earpads installed.

 

Feel free to take a look at the pictures on the OP.

 

As far as the recable making it sound better, It will probably make the signal a bit cleaner, but it's nothing to spend $300+ over. Imo, it's more of a placebo effect than anything else.


Edited by Trae - 8/23/12 at 2:16pm
post #24 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trae View Post

That's what i used. If you have that wide packing tape, you'll have to use some scissors to cut them so that it's not as wide. This is because it will be taped on the driver itself if you don't, and it's easier to fold it around the plastic. Plus, If I didn't wrap them around like I did, I wouldn't be able to tuck in some cotton underneath it.

 

The main reason why I did it like that is because the pads were too big, and I didn't want to use something like double sided tape to put them on there. I wanted to make this mod as reversible as possible, and that's why I'm wondering whether I should remove that white paper stuff behind the driver or not.

 

What I did first was cut me off a piece of tape, wrap it around the circumference of the earpad (leave a little bit of room where your skin meets the earpad so the tape doesn't touch your skin). Then, you get a pair of scissors and cut the tape so that it will neatly fold underneath without covering anything. Just make sure that you have the screws hanging in the holes underneath the earpad before screwing it in. It makes it a ton easier, so you don't have to play around trying to put in the screws with the earpads installed.

 

Feel free to take a look at the pictures on the OP.

 

As far as the recable making it sound better, It will probably make the signal a bit cleaner, but it's nothing to spend $300+ over. Imo, it's more of a placebo effect than anything else.

 Ok, good. So what I was thinking was taping the cushion with the tape extending about halfway up the side wall of it and about a half to 3/4" of "overhang" to allow the tape to be pressed down around the plastic and tucked in between the black cup and the silver ring before reconnecting the silver ring back to the ear cup. I just hope I can get that tape down cleanly and tightly enough to where it's not all janky looking and holds the cushions in place nice and securely......Actually, I just got an idea....you know those thin black plastic bracelets the girls wear? I was thinking of stretching one of those around that silver piece and wedge it in place in the slot where the ear pads tucks into so the pressure/compression of it helps hold the cushion in place and maybe add a couple drops of CA glue around the outer edge of it at the 12/6/3/9 positions (like on a clock) if gluing would even be necessary at that point. I'm thinking the bracelet would be so stretched and tightly compressing into the slot that it alone would hold the cushion in place just fine. Hmmm...what do you think about that idea?

 

These are the bracelets i'm talking about

post #25 of 37
Thread Starter 

Try it out. I don't feel like removing my tape, and I don't have any of those bracelets lying around. biggrin.gif

 

The main bad thing that I can see with that setup is that the bracelet would wedge itself so far into the groove that it would only secure a small part of the earpad. Plus, if force is used (ie. cotton underneath), they may pop out. Using glue may help, but I don't know if it would actually seal the gaps so sound won't leak out. 


Edited by Trae - 8/23/12 at 6:47pm
post #26 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trae View Post

Try it out. I don't feel like removing my tape, and I don't have any of those bracelets lying around. biggrin.gif

 

The main bad thing that I can see with that setup is that the bracelet would wedge itself so far into the groove that it would only secure a small part of the earpad. Plus, if force is used (ie. cotton underneath), they may pop out. Using glue may help, but I don't know if it would actually seal the gaps so sound won't leak out. 

Good point....as soon as my daughter gets home I'll see if she has any and will give it a shot. But I don't have high hopes anymore as I think you're right. Looks like I have a project this weekend!

post #27 of 37

you could just use double sided velcro tape or that new stuff that works like velcro but is supposed to be like 20x stronger, saw it on amazon a while back forgot the name, it's what i was originally going to apply to the gel pads to make them stick before i saw i didnt really need them, they go on loose but they go on, as long as no one hits it at an angle i dont have anything to worry about

post #28 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutchi MerenGue View Post

you could just use double sided velcro tape or that new stuff that works like velcro but is supposed to be like 20x stronger, saw it on amazon a while back forgot the name, it's what i was originally going to apply to the gel pads to make them stick before i saw i didnt really need them, they go on loose but they go on, as long as no one hits it at an angle i dont have anything to worry about

I was considering that when I first got the pads, but I thought that there wouldn't be a good seal around the earpads. Velcro doesn't seal very well, and the sound would leak out. One of the easiest ways to secure the earpads would be to get some double sided tape that's has a circumference a couple inches smaller than the circumference of the headphone, and put the earpads on then. The downside to that, though, is that you can't put any cotton between it, and if you wanted to remove the double sided tape it would remove some of the white felt material along with it.  

 

Another way would be to hot glue the headphone where the bottom of the earpad rests (around the speaker). That would be an easier method than the double sided tape I mentioned earlier, but it may have a chance of damaging the earpads when trying to remove them. Plus, you wouldn't be able to put cotton underneath the earpads if you put in double sided tape or hot-glued the base of the earpads to the headphone. 

 

Another method I thought of was to use hot glue in the grooves where the earpad's lips go at, but it wouldn't necessarily be reversible, and it may damage the earpads if I ever needed to remove them. If you know that you're probably not going to be removing the pads anytime in the future, then this will be the preferred method because you don't have to mess with any screws or tape. It will also provide a better seal than the method I'm using right now, and it will probably look less tacky. You can really put cotton underneath it too (I think I'm obsessed with cotton).


Edited by Trae - 8/23/12 at 8:36pm
post #29 of 37

Since i'm going to open them up to do the sound correction mod I don't really see myself having to remove the cushions for any reason so I'd have no aversion to attaching them permanently. Just to make sure this idea I have now would be sufficient, what exactly am I attempting to seal off with the tape? I'm guessing i'm trying to seal off the the groove where the cushions fit in to, right? If that's the case I think I may go this route......

 

Being a big car audio guy I know there is a glue used on subs that is very strong and durable, it's called rubberized CA glue. I can get a 2oz. bottle of it with spray accelerator that basically makes the glue set in just a few seconds. It's black, forms a super tight bond and if done right would seal off the groove completely and hold the cushions in place with no concern about them falling off. I think what I'd do is do the mod then attach the cushions, lay down a bead of the rubberized CA glue in the groove so as to not only seal the groove but also to hold the cushion in place. Then before it sets put the black bracelet listed above in place.  To try and keep the cans from getting too messy during this process I think I'd wrap the silver piece in painters tape leaving just an 1/8" of it exposed on the side closest to the back of the ear cushion and would remove it as soon as the first bead is laid down and the bracelet is in place. I'd run another bead of the glue around the bracelet to give yet another layer of adhesive to not only ensure a nice seal but give another layer securing the cushion in place. 

 

I also have acquired some Dartex from work, it's a material that's like a cross between spandex and neoprene...I was thinking of maybe lining the face of the cushion with it and attaching it in place via double sided tape to maybe make them a bit more comfortable by giving them a soft, breathable surface that mates to the side of your head rather than the rubbery material that covers the cushions. I'd imagine this would cut down on the heat build up and possible even extend the life of the cushions as your sweat/oils in your skin won't permeate the cushion covering and cause them to harden.

 

http://www.fixmyspeaker.com/ProductDetails.php?pid=10

 

 

What do you think about this plan?

post #30 of 37
Thread Starter 

I changed the material from cotton to toilet paper. Come to find out, the toilet paper sounds a bit more transparent than the cotton, and it's easier to manage. With the cotton underneath the pads, it kept on wedging out until the cotton covered a portion of the grill. This seems to fix it while adding subtle sonic improvements. 

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