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**Hifiman HE-400 Impressions and Discussion Thread** - Page 1015

post #15211 of 17945
Sooooooooooo after 150hrs of burn in, the he400 sounds terrible......on pleathers......but awesome on velours. Ok ok you told me so!
post #15212 of 17945
Quote:
Originally Posted by money4me247 View Post
 

Just wondering what exact frequency spike is causing the sibilance issue as I really like their current sound now & want to do minimal unnecessary EQ changes :) thanks

 

also, sem-related question: are there any tubes that decrease sibilance. i heard that different tubes change the sound of headphones & kinda curious about trying this out.

 

Look at the EQ I posted, the dips are where the treble spikes are.
post #15213 of 17945

thanks people. I actually tried EQ-ing just like -2 db at 12khz & the issue got so much better!

 

i guess that doing that also makes kinda decreases your treble crispness/forwardness/attack/detail too though right? lol still stumbling my way thro the audiophile dictionary. kinda cool tho, I never knew what silibance was until i legit heard it for myself.

 

@manbear, ...but iwanna go tube rollingggg!!! :D


Edited by money4me247 - 12/14/13 at 2:05pm
post #15214 of 17945

What tube amp do you have? It's hard for anyone to make tube recommendations without that information.

post #15215 of 17945
Quote:
Originally Posted by manbear View Post
 

What tube amp do you have? It's hard for anyone to make tube recommendations without that information.

 

hahaha... i have the cheapie $60 bravo v3 tube amp. just wanted to dip my toe into the water before i jump to something like project ember.
post #15216 of 17945

I'm not really familiar with that one. There should be threads on it. If the tubes are cheap, I'd recommend just trying a bunch. Some of my favorite tubes for the Little Dot MKIII were ones that people didn't talk about much. Plus you can sell it for more if you include a tube collection. 

post #15217 of 17945

@Manbear do you know what the output impedance of that amp of your is? 

post #15218 of 17945
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoctaCosmos View Post
 

@Manbear do you know what the output impedance of that amp of your is? 


I'm not sure if you mean the Emotiva or the Little Dot (which I sold a few weeks ago)... David at Little Dot told me that the output impedance of the MKIII is "less than 10 ohms." I'm not positive about the Emotiva, but I think I read somewhere that it's  1-2 ohms or less, like most SS speaker amps. I might be making that up though, I can't find the spec now. 

post #15219 of 17945

i was talking about the emo it was in your signature

thanks

post #15220 of 17945
Quote:
Originally Posted by money4me247 View Post
 

thanks people. I actually tried EQ-ing just like -2 db at 12khz & the issue got so much better!

 

i guess that doing that also makes kinda decreases your treble crispness/forwardness/attack/detail too though right? lol still stumbling my way thro the audiophile dictionary. kinda cool tho, I never knew what silibance was until i legit heard it for myself.

 

@manbear, ...but iwanna go tube rollingggg!!! :D

The EQ issue has been beaten to death for the most part.

 

If you have a recording that is particularly sibilant, it is sometimes also helpful to cut between 800 hz - 3 khz. The very upper echelons of audible treble tame the HE-400s somewhat, but a good deal of sibilance (generally speaking) is in the midrange. No matter whose measurements you take as final, the HE-400 display a bump at around 1 khz which may be accentuating vocal sibilance in some already "hot" recordings. So, I cut 1 khz or so dramatically with some speakers I own (which suck in that region), and cut on the HE-400s when listening to some of my (bad) recordings.

 

Helps quite a bit. :wink_face:

post #15221 of 17945

Purrin's measurements reveal that the spacer for the pleather pads was a likely cause of the 1khz peak.  One of the first things I noticed when switching from pleathers with spacer to velours more than a year ago was the 1khz region seemed less shouty.

 

Now then, as for sibilance, I get that you've been trying to argue about sibilance being a part of the vocal midrange, but sibilants are essentially to be treated as overshoots, and not as fundamental tones or harmonics.  Their center of energy vary from around 4khz (f), 8khz (th) or even 10khz (s, t).  People tend to complain about the s and t range with the HE-400.  This is all naturally speaking as well.  Hot recordings which tend to over-emphasize the treble region for the sake of false clarity make the th and s,t region even worse.

 

HE-400 also tends to have much less upper midrange compared to a lot of more neutral headphones on the market.  They're relatively flat to around 1.5-2khz, but take a nosedive starting around 3khz.  A headphone with much more upper midrange in comparison like the LCD2 ( a good 5-6db more in the 3-5khz range) is also way less sibilant in comparison, and that's because it doesn't have a Mount Everest centered around 10-12khz.


Edited by TMRaven - 12/15/13 at 8:48am
post #15222 of 17945

Some glare and harshness around 800-1200hz - Does not make that much difference to the sibilance. - Pad mods fix this more than EQ.

 

Small peak at 5khz which contributes to the sibilance a bit.

 

Big peak around 8khz Which contributes to sibilance a lot.

 

Everything over 7khz - especially 8khz and 12khz treble spikes, make it worse.

 

Most important parts are above 7khz.

 

I don't know why people complain that EQ has been talked about a lot on this thread, frankly it makes more difference to the sound then anything else you can do for the HE400, only other things that are talked about are amplifiers, pads etc. All of which have also been talked about a lot as well. This is the nature of a thread with 1015 pages..... But EQ will make the biggest difference with the HE400 as well as the pad mods.

post #15223 of 17945
Quote:
Originally Posted by H3nk View Post
 

The right grill seems to be a bit loose for me.

When I tap gently on the blue part of the cup I hear a ringing sound.

The left side is just dull with no ringing at all when I tap it.

 

Has anyone experienced this, or even have a solution?

I tried putting small bits of plastic under the ring which holds the grill but it only results in a minor improvement.

I can't say if this actually has any impact during listening, but still it bothers me.


I would really apreciate if someone could comment on this.

I've come to the conclusion this doesn't affect the sound but it still bothers me.

 

I also have a problem with the screw that allows the cup to turn in the horizontal plane, it's too tight.

There's quite a lot of strain on the head band connection when I rotate the cup, so much that it has actually become a bit loose.

I have tried to loosen up the screw but it's difficult as you can't counter the torque on the flat top.

 

It sucks to have these quality issues when I want to use these for many years to come.

post #15224 of 17945

The ring that holds the grill on has 4 tabs that slip into the cup. Sounds like one or two of the tabs are broken, which makes the ring stick out a bit. You can email HFM and ask for replacements.

post #15225 of 17945
Quote:
Originally Posted by H3nk View Post
 


I would really apreciate if someone could comment on this.

I've come to the conclusion this doesn't affect the sound but it still bothers me.

 

I also have a problem with the screw that allows the cup to turn in the horizontal plane, it's too tight.

There's quite a lot of strain on the head band connection when I rotate the cup, so much that it has actually become a bit loose.

I have tried to loosen up the screw but it's difficult as you can't counter the torque on the flat top.

 

It sucks to have these quality issues when I want to use these for many years to come.

Mineral oil for the yoke swivel joints.

 

Also don't swivel free-handedly, firmly grip the extender piece of the yoke so that the torsion is put onto the swivel joint, not the headband connection piece.

 

I concur though that the logo pieces that secure the yokes to the headband are way too weak, it's a blunder on Hifiman's part. They are coming out with new planars next year though, so we might see a complete design change that fixes these things.

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