Originally Posted by musical-kage
I'm still pretty happy with the sound and I'm hoping the speakers will get better with age but I was listening to The Beach Boys - God Only Knows and the snares at the end were missing sparkle/snap and getting lost somewhat in the mix. That doesn't happen on my head phones or my home system.
Still to do some tinkering though.
Turns out because the mids are in doors and the trebles are on dash, trebles were burying slightly. lowered the trebles by -2 and added +1 mids. was far too bright on alot of songs.
I'm hoping the mids will warm up on doors though.
Try to tweak the tweeters' mounting point and aiming. Remember the tweets at home are almost always in sync with the midwoofer(s), given they're close to each other on the cabinet (unless you're sitting too close); even the tweets that can be tweaked for this at home (like Wharfe Pacifics with a swivel mount for the tweets, or Duevel Planets that you can position and have the tweets farther or close to you depending on your room acoustics) aren't going to be that different. With the limited space in a car, you encounter a bunch of problems :
1) The tweets are usually far from the midwoofers, which means you can get time alignment issues. This is why I always recommend a processor, regrdless of whether it's built into your receiver or not, the important feature being a 3-way crossover and 6-way time alignment. The tweeters being closer to you when on the dash means that you hear it first, so you have to introduce a time-delay on them.
2) Not even a processor can make up for totally imporper mounting - the aiming of the tweeter has to strike a balance between the following:
a. minimize reflections off the windshield, so you need to angle it inward - this is when people find their systems sibilant and possibly with an uneven stage shape (ie the vocals are on the driver's side and forward, the rest on the passenger side might seem recessed to the driver), and EQ or gain doesn't help
b. minimize glare and time alignment issue for the closer tweeter, so you have to angle it outward - again, you will naturally hear something physically closer to you, the difference is that this time too much inward angle will let you hear the tweeter directly instead of more of the same sound just bouncing off the windshield
c. raise the stage height, so you have to angle it upwards - the problem with some people who try to deal with the first two issues by mounting the tweets on the kickpanel? The soundstage height will be lower than the driver's face. It's like being in the far back of the stadium looking down at the concert. Not true universally, but a lot of systems do suffer from this (that's why you need to experiment in your own car with your own speakers)
Again, between a processor and proper mounting, the latter would account for a lot more since no time alignment can process reflections to disappear, but you might in the end wonder why all that sweat didn't get far enough, so might as well do both. I mean, if you spend several Sunday afternoons prototyping then fabricating tweeter mounts, or pay someone else to do this, what's another $350 or so for a Pioneer DEH-80PRS? (Or if you already have an Alpine, get the $150 PXA-H100 add-on processor)
If the main issue is a late model car's GPS, there are processors out there that can take an analog speaker-level input. Sure, some may argue, "garbage (from stock receiver in), garbage (processed and regurgitated) out," but regardless of what you think of the stock unit's frequency response, such processors will be able to deal with the real problem in a car, which is time alignment. Unless you have enough cash to just mount a sound system on a McLaren F1, or buy an old Alpine F1 Status show car (where they unintentionally rip off the McLaren F1 by modifying the car for center-drive seating and adding their F1 Status sound flagship system).