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Schiit Owners Unite - Page 202

post #3016 of 12280
Quote:
Originally Posted by M-13 View Post

Nevermind...

Oh come on, be brave. biggrin.gif
post #3017 of 12280
Quote:
Originally Posted by UmustBKidn View Post


Oh come on, be brave. biggrin.gif

Nah, I only discuss solid-state burn-in with people who have 15+ years of tube building experience. Unfortunately, you fall short by 6 months so you don't qualify.

post #3018 of 12280
Quote:
Originally Posted by IorekByrnison View Post

Jesus. I want those for the names alone. a DAC named Yggdrasil and an amp named Ragnarok? holy Schiit.

Pic time of my new setup at work...


http://www.uptontea.com
post #3019 of 12280

Lupicia's my brand of choice (the circle tins) - We're super lucky to have a real Lupicia store here in SF. Peet's also has some surprisingly nice higher grade releases this year.

 

tea-fi.org

 

tubes and tea every day~

 

 

Question about my Valhalla's upkeep - it has four tubes. One burns out, so I buy the four-set from Schiit of replacements. Do I replace just that tube, just that channel (L/R), just that stage (I/O), or the whole set of four at once? I'm not 100% sure about how tube-matching and such apply across a 2x2 like this, and eventually that day will come.  


Edited by IorekByrnison - 8/9/13 at 4:43pm
post #3020 of 12280

f- yeah!!!! Tea and hi-fi man, it is quite a combo. Now tea and HIFIMAN, that is something I want to experience

post #3021 of 12280
Quote:
Originally Posted by IorekByrnison View Post

 

Question about my Valhalla's upkeep - it has four tubes. One burns out, so I buy the four-set from Schiit of replacements. Do I replace just that tube, just that channel (L/R), just that stage (I/O), or the whole set of four at once? I'm not 100% sure about how tube-matching and such apply across a 2x2 like this, and eventually that day will come.  

A good question, but how would you determine which tube is at fault? I just assume that it would stop working and you wouldn't know which tube died. Unless there is a sure fire way to find that out, i think the only option is to replace the whole bunch. 

post #3022 of 12280
Quote:
Originally Posted by M-13 View Post

Nah, I only discuss solid-state burn-in with people who have 15+ years of tube building experience. Unfortunately, you fall short by 6 months so you don't qualify.

 

Oh come on, please. I promise I won't take it personally ;) Really. I enjoy a good intelligent argument.

post #3023 of 12280
Quote:
Originally Posted by nfslmao View Post

A good question, but how would you determine which tube is at fault? I just assume that it would stop working and you wouldn't know which tube died. Unless there is a sure fire way to find that out, i think the only option is to replace the whole bunch. 

I figured the light would go out... does that not happen?

post #3024 of 12280
Quote:
Originally Posted by IorekByrnison View Post

I figured the light would go out... does that not happen?

 

Left tube, left channel? Right tube, right channel? Or is that too easy?

post #3025 of 12280
Quote:
Originally Posted by IorekByrnison View Post

I figured the light would go out... does that not happen?

whoops....completely forgot they lit up :P Well that would make things easy....well the best way to get a proper answer is to you know......ask schiit about it.

post #3026 of 12280
Quote:
Originally Posted by IorekByrnison View Post

I figured the light would go out... does that not happen?

 

Not every problem you'll ever have with a tube will cause it to stop lighting up.

 

The light is caused by the cathod heater BTW.

post #3027 of 12280

There must be a Yes or NO answer to 'Does a Solid State amplifier 'burn in'? We are not talking about not checking to see if the assembly is correct but does it actually make a difference, change SQ past that.

 

My Mojo and PWD.......sound so very good from the gate that I cannot tell.  And as a mere consumer without technical training, cannot answer that question.

post #3028 of 12280

My Mjolnir definitely burned in after 100+ hours. The HD800s were pretty unlistenable to me up until that point. I'd think an LCD owner might not notice the burnin as much since it's a pretty synergistic combo from the get go. For the HD800 though, the treble finally became acceptable, the bass came around, and the entire presentation was less aggressive and more defined all the way around. This ss amp changed more than any other I've owned. I also found that different powercords make a difference with the Mjolnir (and Bifrost) as well. YMMV.

 

-Daniel

post #3029 of 12280
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saraguie View Post

There must be a Yes or NO answer to 'Does a Solid State amplifier 'burn in'? We are not talking about not checking to see if the assembly is correct but does it actually make a difference, change SQ past that.

 

My Mojo and PWD.......sound so very good from the gate that I cannot tell.  And as a mere consumer without technical training, cannot answer that question.

FWIW -  my rev 1 Asgard 2 transformer hum got noticeably quieter after 50+ hours of use...does that mean it was 'burning-in" or just that it took that long to settle in.  The sound in that time period did change somewhat, but was it due to the amp or me?  Let's just say that the more I listen to a system the more familiar I become and the more details I notice and therefore perceive it to be getting better...all part of the fun.


Edited by bearFNF - 8/10/13 at 12:41pm
post #3030 of 12280

Daniel,

 

can you provide some details on your "improved" power cables and the benefit you noticed?

are you located somewhere with "clean" power and these cables plug directly in the wall on 115/125V, or do you use some sort of conditioning unit like a Furman AC-215A?

thanks.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by BournePerfect View Post

 This ss amp changed more than any other I've owned. I also found that different powercords make a difference with the Mjolnir (and Bifrost) as well. YMMV.

 

-Daniel

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