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help with speaker cable

post #1 of 19
2/8/12 at 10:46am
Thread Starter 

I don't know much about cables, so some help would be great.

 

I have 15 year old unpowered speakers hooked up to my 15 year old receiver.

Everything works great, but the speaker cable is not long enough.

The current cable has exposed wire at the ends that connect to both my speakers and receiver (unlike modern setups that use RCA?)

 

ANYWAY, I need a longer cable, and don't know what I'm looking for.

Ideally, something relatively cheap, with good sound quality.

Would any cable do? 14 vs 16 guage?

Is this a good one?

http://www.amazon.com/RCA-AH14100SN-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire/dp/B002HPNDDW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1328726357&sr=8-5

 

(Or could someone possibly link me something on Amazon that is better).

I only need about 10 feet for each speaker.

 

Thanks

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post #2 of 19
2/8/12 at 11:10am

more options here...

 

personally I'd go with 14 - but 16 is good too - then run two pair for each side in a shotgun configuration. L3000.gif

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post #3 of 19
2/8/12 at 11:31am
Thread Starter 

what do you mean "run two pair for each side"?

don't I just cut 10 feet of speaker wire for one speaker, and 10 feet for the other speaker... strip the ends, and connect?

are you saying I need 2 wires for each speaker (so 4 wires in total)?

 

also, is there much audio difference between cheap vs expensive speaker wire?

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post #4 of 19
2/8/12 at 11:36am

each speaker needs two separated conductors (positive and negative). Most "speaker wire" has two wires together to accomodate that. But yes, you need 4 wires total. 

 

 

 

Quote:
also, is there much audio difference between cheap vs expensive speaker wire?

 

 

Provided that you are using a thick enough wire for the distance you need to cover. No, there has never been any test or data to suggest it makes an audible difference. 

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post #5 of 19
2/8/12 at 12:15pm
Thread Starter 

"run two pair for each side" means 8 total wires... maybe the phrasing was incorrect. i understand that each speaker needs 2 wires, which are usually braided together into one cable.

 

I ask about cheap v.s. expensive wire, because the cheap stuff I found on Amazon is CCA wire (Copper Clad Aluminum), which means that the copper is 1 grade thinner, but also not pure copper.

 

For an extra $20 I could go with what looks like a better quality Monster cable. Not knowing much about cables, are these the same quality, (extra money for the Monster name), or is the Monster one better (ie. better copper)?

 

$10 RCA

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JP4Z96/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

$30 Monster

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FON3IM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A2ZEJ230H14EIK

 

 

thanks for all the advice/suggestions

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post #6 of 19
2/8/12 at 12:59pm

I see nothing to indicate that the RCA cable is anything other than regular stranded copper (not CCA). It should be fine. 

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post #7 of 19
2/8/12 at 1:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee inthe Attic View Post

what do you mean "run two pair for each side"?

don't I just cut 10 feet of speaker wire for one speaker, and 10 feet for the other speaker... strip the ends, and connect?

are you saying I need 2 wires for each speaker (so 4 wires in total)?

 

also, is there much audio difference between cheap vs expensive speaker wire?


 

that's correct, I mean 8 total wires. since you buy the cable in bulk I was suggesting to bi-wire the speakers. I'm not saying that it'll make a definitive difference - it might does - probably it won't. but if you've the extra cable is something you could try, and find out for yourself.

 

there's a HUGE difference between cheap vs expensive cables; but the price difference it's also HUGE. I talking about $1000+. but need to be used with similar priced components. with good enough gear it's pretty easy to hear the differences.

 

people who say there's not audible difference between cheap vs expensive cables have never try any expensive cables... ever.

 

but their religion says it can't, so it can't...biggrin.gif

 

I doubt the Monter's is any better than the RCA's

 

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post #8 of 19
2/8/12 at 1:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lenni View Post

 

people who say there's not audible difference between cheap vs expensive cables have never try any expensive cables... ever.

 

but their religion says it can't, so it can't...biggrin.gif

 



This is actually not a true statement. Nor does asking for measurable, repeatable evidence (not anecdote and subjective impressions) qualify as a religion. But that's really neither here nor there, and we don't need to rehash this discussion here.

 

Ultimately, there will not be any audible difference between the cables you posted. 


Edited by liamstrain - 2/8/12 at 1:48pm
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post #9 of 19
2/8/12 at 1:59pm

^maybe you want to post all the expensive cables you've tried, and the gear used with them, here, since you seem quite certain of that.

 

or is your certainty based (limited) by the obvious realities?

 

you tell me.

 

 

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post #10 of 19
2/8/12 at 2:13pm

My personal experience:

McIntosh 275 monoblocks, Magnepan (unknown model), Theil (3.7) and Wilson Audio speakers (Sophia) , Audio Quest, Nordost Valhalla and a few lesser priced cables (Kimber). Source was a Krell SACD (I do not recall model), via McIntosh C2300 pre-amp. 

 

In blind and sighted testing over a few weeks, none of us were able to discern a difference in the cables. In the end, he opted for the Kimber because he liked the look and the price was the best of the ones he tried. 

 

My experience is also the one backed up by ALL the objective data currently to be found. 

 

*shrug*

 

But like I said, we don't need to rehash this here. 


Edited by liamstrain - 2/8/12 at 2:14pm
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post #11 of 19
2/8/12 at 2:25pm
Thread Starter 

i appreciate the input from both of you, thanks.

while i have your attention, I'd like to ask another cable/connection question if you don't mind: hopefully this post won't be too long or confusing I'm just trying to learn what I can bigsmile_face.gif

 

 

 

Set-up #1

I listen to music from headphones and 2 sets of speakers (1 set of desktop, 1 set unpowered through my receiver).

This is the way that I have it ALL connected. Is this the best set-up, or does it not really matter?

 

Macbook > Fiio e10 via USB.

e10 line out SPLIT. 1 side to desktop speakers & 1 side to the Fiio e9 line in.

e9 RCA line out to receiver tape/video in (to power other speakers). 

 

would the splitter on the e10 DAC cause sound quality issues?

I could instead split the e9 line out, or use the e9's pre-out for the desktop speakers (but i don't like the way that sounds)

this whole things seems messy, yet sounds ok -  am wondering if I'm doing it all wrong though.

 

 

 

Set-up #2

LASTLY, I'd like to listen to my turntable vinyl on my cans (since i'm not loving the headphone jack on the receiver).

would i split the e9 line in, and run the turntable into it - with a phono pre-amp in the middle of this connection?

something like either of these?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00025742A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AJR482/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=A3CLJYQ8X1E8Z4

 

or to simplify it all a bit and try out that tube sound i could get the HiFiman EF2A, and connect the turntable to the above pre-amp, and then into the EF2A line in.

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post #12 of 19
2/8/12 at 2:41pm

 

so you've tried (owned?) the Nordost Vahalla cables in your own system, and you couldn't hear any difference at all? sorry, but I find that very hard to believe...

 

but whatever, that's ok by me. I don't really give a monkey a** what cables others use in their system. their loss

 

OK, back on OT, sorry OP


Quote:
Originally Posted by liamstrain View Post

My personal experience:

McIntosh 275 monoblocks, Magnepan (unknown model), Theil (3.7) and Wilson Audio speakers (Sophia) , Audio Quest, Nordost Valhalla and a few lesser priced cables (Kimber). Source was a Krell SACD (I do not recall model), via McIntosh C2300 pre-amp. 

 

In blind and sighted testing over a few weeks, none of us were able to discern a difference in the cables. In the end, he opted for the Kimber because he liked the look and the price was the best of the ones he tried. 

 

My experience is also the one backed up by ALL the objective data currently to be found. 

 

*shrug*

 

But like I said, we don't need to rehash this here. 



 

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post #13 of 19
2/8/12 at 2:52pm

No, this was my roomate's system (hence my use of the third person) - though I was instrumental in building it for him (spending his money :) ) and quite familiar with it. Based on that experience, and the available tests and objective data, I decided I did not need to make that kind investment on cables, myself. Show me objective data or blind tests to indicate that I've made a mistake in that assessment, and I'll re-evaluate. It is your claim to support, not mine to disprove. 

 

Alright. I also apologize to the OP. 

 

1. I don't think you'd have any problems with the splitter from the E10 aside from the extra current draw if you are using them at the same time.. 

 

2. I like the NAD PP2i or equivalent (the PROJekt boxes are good too) for phono stages. But yes, once through the phono stage you could throw it into the E9. If the E9 only has one source in, I wouldn't split it - I'd see if you could find or make a source selector switch box. 

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post #14 of 19
2/8/12 at 3:05pm
Thread Starter 

no need to apologize. if i knew anything about cables, I would be just as stubborn and argue back !!

 

1)though my set-up sounds messy, it's reassuring to hear that it works (from a technical standpoint).

 

2)since i've been considering a tube amp for some time, i think my next purchase will be a HiFi Man EF2A (hybrid) or Little Dot II (tube) ... and use one of those cheaper pre-amps in between.

 

 

 

Again, thanks for your help and quick replies.

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post #15 of 19
2/8/12 at 7:09pm

15 year old hardware can still be good, depending on the make and condition.

 

Copper solidcore cables from your local hardware store can perform quite decently if you're on a tight budget.

 

Anti-cable works pretty well on most good entry or even mid level hardwares.

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