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Decware Appreciation Thread (MT review up on first page 2-10-12) - Page 30

post #436 of 1216

Thanks, I was asking more because I don't want to blow up my Taboo (if that was possible) so if I knew exactly the product I could blame you biggrin.gif

So essentially I would need two resistors?  One for each channel?    

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=019-020

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062288

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris J View Post

 

Hey.........

My point is that I would not agonize too much about what 8 Ohm, 2 Watt resistor to buy. There is not a lot of "secret sauce" in resistors!wink_face.gif

 

Try Newark Electronics or The Parts Connexion.    When I get some spare time I'll see if I can find something a bit more concrete.

post #437 of 1216
Quote:
Originally Posted by WNBC View Post

Thanks, I was asking more because I don't want to blow up my Taboo (if that was possible) so if I knew exactly the product I could blame you biggrin.gif

So essentially I would need two resistors?  One for each channel?    

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=019-020

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062288

 

 

 

Yes you need one resistor for each channel so you need two resistors.

The one from parts express is probably the size of a brick, you don't need anything that large, it will be too cumbersome and ugly.frown.gif

The one from radio shack looks lie it has extremly short leads so you would have to solder on additional wire leads.

Most of the resistors I suggested would have long enough leads to go across your speaker terminals. Nice and neat, no muss, no fuss.

 

If it blows up I will blame AiDee because he is from NZ and he probably deserves it!tongue.gif

post #438 of 1216

Heh heh - no worries, I've got big shoulders and no one will ever find me here anyway evil_smiley.gif

 

Just remind me Chris - how is Canada doing in the Olympics compared to NZ? tongue.gif

 

Quote:
If it blows up I will blame AiDee because he is from NZ and he probably deserves it!tongue.gif
post #439 of 1216

What are some threads dedicated to Decware CSP2+ & Taboo tube rolling?  

Or do the Woo and Decware owners unite on conversations about rectifiers?

 

The low end and midrange of this Taboo is crazy good.  Gobs of detail.  70 hours of burn-in so far typically in 3-5 hour bursts.

 

My current tube configuration is 1957 Sylvania JAN 5U4WG + Gold Lions EL84 + 1966 Siemens & Halske 3-Mica 12AT7 

A couple people have mentioned 5AR4 tubes to me as something worthwhile to roll 

 

One interesting thing is that when I first turn on the amp the 12AT7s make an audible sound and glow bright then settle down quickly as the current passes through the amp.  I guess that is the role of the input tube but I haven't observed the light and sound show with my other 12AX7 or 12AU7 tubes.  

post #440 of 1216

Skylab's CSP2 review thread here has some tube-rolling information. Link is to Lord Soth's recent post which points to a very interesting white paper of Steve D's about the effect of rectifier choice on the CSP2 sound.

 

Early pages of Frank I's Taboo thread (which you already post in yes?) has some stuff too.

 

I recently saw useful-looking info in the Schiit Lyr tube-rolling thread of all places. I'll have to search to find it again (or just try Taboo and CSP2 in the search function).

 

I agree Taboo is crazy good - especially since I changed rectifier from the stock Chinese 5U4 to Tung Sol 5Y3GT.

 

I have a Mullard 12AT7 which puts on a light display like you describe. I have not seen this with any of about seven other driver tubes.

post #441 of 1216

Thanks for the info, 

I haven't read Skylab's CSP2 review but will definitely take a look.  

Good to know that I am not alone with the 12AT7 light show.  

I probably shouldn't roll until the Taboo is fully burned in but can't hurt to burn some decent tubes at the same time.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by AiDee View Post

Skylab's CSP2 review thread here has some tube-rolling information. Link is to Lord Soth's recent post which points to a very interesting white paper of Steve D's about the effect of rectifier choice on the CSP2 sound.

 

Early pages of Frank I's Taboo thread (which you already post in yes?) has some stuff too.

 

I recently saw useful-looking info in the Schiit Lyr tube-rolling thread of all places. I'll have to search to find it again (or just try Taboo and CSP2 in the search function).

 

I agree Taboo is crazy good - especially since I changed rectifier from the stock Chinese 5U4 to Tung Sol 5Y3GT.

 

I have a Mullard 12AT7 which puts on a light display like you describe. I have not seen this with any of about seven other driver tubes.

post #442 of 1216
Quote:
Originally Posted by WNBC View Post
......

What are some threads dedicated to Decware CSP2+ & Taboo tube rolling?  

Or do the Woo and Decware owners unite on conversations about rectifiers?

......

For the CSP2+, besides Skylab's fantastic CSP2+ review over here in Head-Fi, there is a wonderful rectifier tube rolling thread posted by "JDM" over in the Decware forum.

http://www.decware.com/cgi-bin/yabb22/YaBB.pl?num=1208182422

 

The Tung Sol 5Y3 and Bendix 6106 is highly rated. Some people might prefer the Sylvania 5Y3 variant for a slightly darker sound.

 

The most cost effective way to tube roll the CSP2+ is the single input tube position.

I've tried many of the so-called super tubes (e.g. Amperex USA Pinched Waist 6922, Grey shields Siemens 7308, Grey Shields Siemens CCa, Telefunken <> E188CC, Lorenz CCa Stuttgart Germany, French Philips E188CC, Grey Shields Valvo CCa  ...etc) in the solo input position of the CSP2+.

 

So far, IMHO, my personal favs, in the spirit of the current Olympics ;) are :-

 

1. GOLD goes to Amperex (*USA) Pinched Waist 6922 (wonderful balanced tube with natural tone)

2. SILVER goes to Lorenz E88CC - Stuttgart Germany (99% of the Pinched Waist, lost slightly in a "photo-finish")

3. BRONZE goes to Lorenz PCC88  - Stuttgart Germany (the best impactful and tight bass). If I had not heard (and even if I did audition) the other 2 above-mentioned tubes, I'll still be contented to live with the PCC88 Lorenz on a deserted island.

4. 4th Place - Amperex (*USA) Grey Shields Normal 6922 (90% of the pinched Waist)

 

My current CSP2+ tube choices are

 

1. Tungsol 5Y3 - Rectifier

2. 2x Siemens E188CC - L and R position

3. Amperex 6922 Pinched Waist - Input tube

 

YMMW.

post #443 of 1216

Thanks, The Tung Sol and Bendix are now on my short list.  

 

JDM wrote:

5U4WGB Sylvania 5931 - dark, not revealing, musical, congested soundstage; bass: unremarkable; mids: strong vocals; treble: recessed, weak.

 

If that's the case then I definitely have to roll more rectifiers.  The Sylvania is the only tube I've tried other than the stock. Vocals are strong and it is musical.  I won't know if it gets better in the bass and soundstage until I try something else.

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Soth View Post

For the CSP2+, besides Skylab's fantastic CSP2+ review over here in Head-Fi, there is a wonderful rectifier tube rolling thread posted by "JDM" over in the Decware forum.

http://www.decware.com/cgi-bin/yabb22/YaBB.pl?num=1208182422

 

The Tung Sol 5Y3 and Bendix 6106 is highly rated. Some people might prefer the Sylvania 5Y3 variant for a slightly darker sound.

 

YMMW.

post #444 of 1216

Here are the specs for various rectifier families.  http://www.300guitars.com/articles/rectifier-tube-voltage-drop-chart/

 

Changing the rectifier changes the voltage and "sag" feeding the driver and input tubes.  One rectifier may sound great with one set of tubes but not mesh well with others and vica versa.  This leaves a million combinations to try.  Im finding the higher the output voltage the more pronounced the low end is with most tubes, but you seem to lose a bit of soundstage and dynamics.  Its all about finding the right combo to suit your tastes imo.  Try a bunch for yourself.  I've only had my CSP2+ a few weeks I still have no idea which combo I like best.  :D

post #445 of 1216
Quote:
Originally Posted by supra1988t View Post

Here are the specs for various rectifier families.  http://www.300guitars.com/articles/rectifier-tube-voltage-drop-chart/

 

Changing the rectifier changes the voltage and "sag" feeding the driver and input tubes.  One rectifier may sound great with one set of tubes but not mesh well with others and vica versa.  This leaves a million combinations to try.  Im finding the higher the output voltage the more pronounced the low end is with most tubes, but you seem to lose a bit of soundstage and dynamics.  Its all about finding the right combo to suit your tastes imo.  Try a bunch for yourself.  I've only had my CSP2+ a few weeks I still have no idea which combo I like best.  :D

Ah yes, that reminds me of the "tube arcing" phenomenon reported by CSP2+ owners in the Decware forums.

 

If you put in a 5U4 rectifier, that will cause the CSP2+ to run the 2x L/R and 1x Input tubes at the highest voltages.

Running a 5Y3 is the other extreme and will run the input tubes at the lowest voltages.

 

Some CSP2+ owners have reported that their 6DJ8/ECC88 tubes displayed some initial arcing on startup when the 5U4 rectifier tubes were used.

A tougher tube such as 6922 or 7308 or 6N1P should not suffer from any arcing.

The CSP2+ was originally designed to be run with the stock 6N1Ps which sound their best (in theory) at the highest voltages, hence a stock 5U4 is supplied.

 

So far, for safety reasons, I have only been using the 5Y3 family of rectifiers partly due to what I have read over there.

And I did have a slight headstart on the Tung Sols 5Y3s due to JDM's recommendation. ;)

With the Tung Sol 5Y3, all the various 6DJ8 tubes which I have used have not shown any tube arcing.

 

Oh, wish you plenty of fun with the tube rolling! smile.gif

My wallet did suffer a bit from tube rolling.

But as per the Mastercard commercial, the tube-rolling experience is fun and priceless!

post #446 of 1216

You guys might be on to something here with the tube arcing.  Some of us newbies are going through growing pains.  This is my third tube amp.  First two were Schiit Valhalla and Lyr.  As you can imagine the Lyr is easy to roll and probably no tube arcing.

 

Let me know what you think is going on here based on these observations that occur when I first turn on the amp:

 

1.) NOS 5U4WG + new Gold Lion EL84 + NOS Siemens 12AT7 = loud audible pop sound from 12AT7 with a bright flash of light 

     If I use a Lorenz 12AX7 instead of Siemens there is no audible pop but there is a bright flash of light

 

2.) NOS 5U4WG + new Gold Lion EL84 + new Gold Lions 12AX7 = no loud audible pop sound from 12AX7 and no light show (this tube doesn't glow bright anyway)

 

3.) Stock Ruby 5U4 + new Gold Lion EL84 + NOS Siemens 12AT7 = no audible pop sound from 12AT7 but still the light flash show

 

4.) Stock Ruby 5U4 + new Gold Lion EL84 + new Gold Lions 12AX7 = no audible pop sound from 12AX7 and no light show (this tube doesn't glow bright anyway)

 

AiDee mentioned his 12AT7 did flash as well.  My first input tubes were the JJ 12AU7 and Gold Lions 12AX7 which barely glow.  Now that I am experimenting with more input tubes it is a quite shock to hear pops and see flashes of light when first turning on the Taboo.  I'm wondering if the flash and pop are just a property of the input tube and not because of anything bad happening to the amp or tubes.  The other tubes are fine, nothing interesting happening with rectifier or power tubes.  Who knew tube rolling could be so scary biggrin.gif

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Soth View Post

Ah yes, that reminds me of the "tube arcing" phenomenon reported by CSP2+ owners in the Decware forums.


Edited by WNBC - 8/12/12 at 2:11pm
post #447 of 1216

Mullard 12AT7 flashed in the Taboo bit never was arching. Kevin Deal told me that it was perfectly normal for the Mullard to flash and I have had other tubes in different amps do the same. Flash is not arching. I use the 5U4G in my CSP2 with 6922/ 6dj8 and even 7dj8 and never had any issues with any arching in over 2 years of constant use.


Edited by Frank I - 8/12/12 at 2:35pm
post #448 of 1216
Lots of 12V miniatures flash on power up. That's not arcing. The key here is audibility. Arcing will cause a very audible POP if you have headphones connected. I had a Wheatfield HA-2 that arced, and it was enough to take out the driver in my DT-990, and it's a damned good thing I wasn't wearing them at the time.
post #449 of 1216

Thanks for the info.  The flashes are ok.

The only pop I hear is from the Siemens 12AT7 tube and it is not when the headphones are connected.  When I turn on the amp the headphones are not connected.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank I View Post

Mullard 12AT7 flashed in the Taboo bit never was arching. Kevin Deal told me that it was perfectly normal for the Mullard to flash and I have had other tubes in different amps do the same. Flash is not arching. I use the 5U4G in my CSP2 with 6922/ 6dj8 and even 7dj8 and never had any issues with any arching in over 2 years of constant use.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylab View Post

Lots of 12V miniatures flash on power up. That's not arcing. The key here is audibility. Arcing will cause a very audible POP if you have headphones connected. I had a Wheatfield HA-2 that arced, and it was enough to take out the driver in my DT-990, and it's a damned good thing I wasn't wearing them at the time.
post #450 of 1216

With AiDee's help (on a different thread) and endorsement of the Taboo, I will eventually be a part of the "appreciation" thread cool.gif

 

I just have a couple of questions about the Taboo upgrades and believe starting here is a wise decision.

 

 

From Decware website:

 

CUSTOM OPTIONS

Since the chassis was designed to accommodate additional jacks and even another tube if needed, the following options are available:

  • Choose between the black figured base or the contemporary walnut - FREE
  • Choose from a variety of alternate hardwoods - add $50
  • Stepped attenuator - add $250
  • V-Caps - add $200
  • Headphone jack for Planar Magnetic Ear Phones - add $100

 

 

- For those who have the V-Cap upgrade, how many caps in total and what are their values?

 

- Why does the output jack cost $100 for Ortho users? 

 

 

So I'm gonna pull the trigger soon.  Any advice on what other options to get or not to get?

Will be using vinyl as the only source so no DAC is needed in this setup.  Cans are LCD-2

 

popcorn.gif cheers!


Edited by vinyl addict - 8/13/12 at 10:36pm
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