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The Nameless Guide To PC Gaming Audio (with binaural headphone surround sound) - Page 65

post #961 of 3278

raband, neither the Creative Z series nor any Asus soundcards are indicated for gaming. Get the Creative X-Fi Titanium HD, with an excellent DAC and high quality components, as well as having full gaming audio support (something the Creative Z series and Asus soundcards lack), then add the O2 to it.

 

And yes, you should get rid of the Mixamp as soon as possible.

post #962 of 3278
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roller View Post

Creative X-Fi Titanium HD,

 

Cheers - I'll look into them.

None of my usual shops seem to be stocking them - I guess they'll be getting replaced by the Z's?

 

The X-Fi Xtreme Audio seems to be the only X-Fi that's common locally - I take it they're not ideal?

post #963 of 3278
Quote:
Originally Posted by raband View Post

 

Cheers - I'll look into them.

None of my usual shops seem to be stocking them - I guess they'll be getting replaced by the Z's?

 

The X-Fi Xtreme Audio seems to be the only X-Fi that's common locally - I take it they're not ideal?

 

The regular X-Fi Titanium (non-HD) models are replaced by Recon3D, which then is replaced by Z series. However, only X-Fi cards are recommended towards gaming, with the X-Fi Titanium HD being an excellent performer for gaming, music and movies.

 

The X-Fi XtremeAudio is to be avoided since it lacks the X-Fi chip, something that significantly lowers gaming audio support, akin to what happens on the Z series and on Asus cards.

 

The reason I recommended the X-Fi Titanium HD is because you were already considering cards that are more expensive (and with less complete feature sets), and you already have an O2 amp, which makes for a great pairing with the soundcard. I suggest you look around further or order online.

post #964 of 3278
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roller View Post

 

The regular X-Fi Titanium (non-HD) models are replaced by Recon3D, which then is replaced by Z series. However, only X-Fi cards are recommended towards gaming, with the X-Fi Titanium HD being an excellent performer for gaming, music and movies.

 

The X-Fi XtremeAudio is to be avoided since it lacks the X-Fi chip, something that significantly lowers gaming audio support, akin to what happens on the Z series and on Asus cards.

 

The reason I recommended the X-Fi Titanium HD is because you were already considering cards that are more expensive (and with less complete feature sets), and you already have an O2 amp, which makes for a great pairing with the soundcard. I suggest you look around further or order online.


Thanks again - I'll most probably put in a order for one. They do still seem available once I looked past the local shops.

post #965 of 3278

Also headphone mode can be used with the RCA outputs on the Titanium HD which will aloud you to use CMSS3D headphone when your gaming. Also if you don't like the sound signature. Then its the JRC op-amps that are in the IV op-amp socket on the titanium HD. Most people tend to change those to Two LME49720NA's.

post #966 of 3278
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by genclaymore View Post

Also if you don't like the sound signature. Then its the JRC op-amps that are in the IV op-amp socket on the titanium HD. Most people tend to change those to Two LME49720NA's.

 

I'd personally advise just using the EQ instead. More control over the frequency response that way.

 

I replaced those JRC 2114Ds with some LME49860s (basically the same circuit as the LM4562 and LME49720), and the result was grossly exaggerated bass and treble with recessed mids. I hated it, especially as a midrangehead/vocalhead, and immediately restored the card to its stock opamp configuration.

post #967 of 3278
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evshrug View Post
In my opinion, based on my research, you would be better served with a FiiO E11. Much more powerful amp than the E7, no DAC that would be useless if you are using an X-Fi's DAC anyway, rechargeable lithium battery, and only like $60 if you buy on Amazon from seller Micca with a spare battery (so you can keep a spare charged & ready). A good deal. If you can afford $100, your DT990 - 250Ohm headphones would be even better served by the more powerful E9 desktop amp.

I did end up going with the E9 amp! I don't really have much use for a portable amp right now so figured dealing with battery based stuff was not worth it.  Have my USB X-fi all set up on windows so just waiting on the UPS to deliver today/tmrw.  Cant wait for my first real gaming/music sound setup haha.  I think I might upgrade to an internal card eventually to reduce the clutter of having the USB X-fi on my desk.  Before that I want to give THX Trustudio a try though, since I dont really play many old games (which seems to be the main drawback with this over X-Fi/CMSS stuff?), I'll decide on titanium/recon3d/Z after I've given both technologies an ear.


Edited by zerocraft - 11/28/12 at 7:30am
post #968 of 3278
Quote:
Originally Posted by NamelessPFG View Post

 

I'd personally advise just using the EQ instead. More control over the frequency response that way.

 

I replaced those JRC 2114Ds with some LME49860s (basically the same circuit as the LM4562 and LME49720), and the result was grossly exaggerated bass and treble with recessed mids. I hated it, especially as a midrangehead/vocalhead, and immediately restored the card to its stock opamp configuration.

The reason why i don't mention Eqing to people is its a pain since you would have to fool with it until you get it the way you want it.  I used to be a op-amp roller before I switched to distree setup.  I liked the LME49720NA with certain headphones but not with others, I mention the LME49720NA because it was the only op-amp I could remember. Since I haven't rolled op-amps in a long time so i in up forgetting about the different ones I rolled that I liked and didn't like. Tho when I did it on the Titanium HD I was changing both the I/V and the two buffers or using the RCA out which used both I/V and Buffers, so i was doing a 2x LME49720NA with the default 2x LME49710NA that was in the buffer socket which even it out.

 

The LME 49720NA isn't gonna work for every one, just like the JRcs you mention not working for every one. It just depends on the sound signature you want just like the OPA2134 which I hate which also drives me crazy.  I removed them quicky and replaced them with something else.  There are other op-amps that can be used instead of the LME49720NA's like the Metal cap ver which is better then the chip ver. I do know there was also alot of Good Linear ones that I can't remember. Including ones that had the sound signature that you wanted.  I just can't recall them as I forgot them all after I went to this Audio-GB NFB-12 just from not doing any op-amp rolling after wards since its a distree setup.


Edited by genclaymore - 11/28/12 at 10:17am
post #969 of 3278
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerocraft View Post

I did end up going with the E9 amp! I don't really have much use for a portable amp right now so figured dealing with battery based stuff was not worth it.  Have my USB X-fi all set up on windows so just waiting on the UPS to deliver today/tmrw.  Cant wait for my first real gaming/music sound setup haha.  I think I might upgrade to an internal card eventually to reduce the clutter of having the USB X-fi on my desk.  Before that I want to give THX Trustudio a try though, since I dont really play many old games (which seems to be the main drawback with this over X-Fi/CMSS stuff?), I'll decide on titanium/recon3d/Z after I've given both technologies an ear.

 

The E9 is a solid performer for its price, however the O2 does have lower output impedance, which is preferable for lower impedance headphones.

 

THX TruStudio is significantly inferior to even software based CMSS-3D, nevermind hardware based CMSS-3D. And while proper audio renderers are where X-Fi cards shine, so do modern games that run awfully 2D flat audio renders benefit from X-Fi cards over newer software based Recon3D and Z series cards, mainly due to the X-Fi-specific algorithms that improve positional cue accuracy in both height and depth, something that isn't found on other Creative card series or any other manufacturer.

So, a cost effective and higher performing upgrade (over your USB X-Fi) is a base Creative X-Fi Titanium, but if you want the best gaming experience with a very high quality DAC, then the Creative X-Fi Titanium HD is the card to get.

post #970 of 3278
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evshrug View Post

Pox64,
I fully understand how wires can be an issue. Especially in areas of traffic or where you want to be a little discreet. Just decide for yourself if the trade-off of permanently allocating part of your purchase budget towards a wireless antenna, cheap built-in DAC, cheap built-in amp, cheap built-in battery, and the weight of those components is worth the wireless convenience. I'm going to assume based on your Bluetooth mod on your Senn HD 25-II that you have the modding skills to replace the headset's batteries when they no longer hold a charge. I personally have no idea how the wireless Sony headset you mentioned sounds, Sony makes pretty good products, but I wouldn't believe it sounds better than my Q701 wired into a decent amp/receiver. The Q701 also comes with two long lengths of detachable cable, so I have no problem lounging on a couch while the cable is routed mostly out of the way. IMO, the inexpensive flagship AKG headphone would be the clear all-around choice among those listed for my tastes, especially considering you already own a pair of wireless headphones. I can't tell you if they'll fit your preference for sound signature, but technically they are very capable and high-performing headphones.

Thanks, the headphones I am looking at are:
AKG Q701
Sennheiser HD 598
Sennheiser RS 180 (wireless would be very convenient)

I guess my real question is would the lag in the RS 180's be noticeable while gaming?

My best of both worlds would be AKG Q701 with wireless adaptors for when I want wireless. Wired for gaming.

I have had a search around but there doesn't seem to be a KLEER transmitter and receiver plugin for speakers.
post #971 of 3278

Hi,

 

I just build my gaming PC with MoBo Asus Maximus V formula, connected my mixamp... and is useless...

 

Seems i need Dolby Digital Live (that my card doesn't support). I only have DTS connect, and Ultra PC II (that seems like surround for gaming and so on).

 

My question is... 

 

1) How good is this card? has anyone checked the asus maximus v soundcard (Realtek ALC889)?

 

 

 

Quote:
SupremeFX IV built-in 7.1-Channel High Definition Audio CODEC 
- Output Signal-to-Noise Ratio (A-Weighted): 110 dB
- Output THD+N at 1kHz: 95 dB
- TI 6120A2 high fidelity headphone amplifier
- Supports : Jack-detection, Multi-streaming, Front Panel Jack-retasking
Audio Feature :
- SupremeFX Shielding™ Technology
- ELNA premium audio capacitors
- 1500 uF Audio Power Capacitor
- Blu-ray audio layer Content Protection 
- DTS Ultra PC II
- DTS Connect
- Optical S/PDIF out port(s) at back panel

 

2) I may want to go (if there is going to be a huge 3D improvement) to a dedicated sound card... i wanted to try x-fi titanium HD, but a friend of mine IRL told me he listened to both x-fi hd and recon3d... and that he actually liked much much more the recon3d, i read a lot about recon3d and many people says is crap, while other people says that for gaming is ultrab...

 

any advise? hehe

 

thanks!

post #972 of 3278

Compared to the X-Fi Titanium HD, the Recon3D series is garbage for all purposes. There is no better soundcard for gaming purposes than the X-Fi Titanium HD, while also handling music and movies very well due to the very high quality DAC and components, something that isn't found on the Recon3D series.

 

About your onboard audio chip, it's not as bad as other onboard audio chips, but it's still one, therefore with quality inferior to entry level soundcards.

post #973 of 3278
Quote:
Originally Posted by obazavil View Post

I just build my gaming PC with MoBo Asus Maximus V formula, connected my mixamp... and is useless...

Seems i need Dolby Digital Live (that my card doesn't support). I only have DTS connect, and Ultra PC II (that seems like surround for gaming and so on).

My question is... 

1) How good is this card? has anyone checked the asus maximus v soundcard (Realtek ALC889)?

2) I may want to go (if there is going to be a huge 3D improvement) to a dedicated sound card... i wanted to try x-fi titanium HD, but a friend of mine IRL told me he listened to both x-fi hd and recon3d... and that he actually liked much much more the recon3d, i read a lot about recon3d and many people says is crap, while other people says that for gaming is ultrab...

Refurb Titanium (non-HD), is only $44.99, comes with DDL, but with this card you will not need the Astro mix-amp anyway.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829102043

post #974 of 3278

Is there a good guide for the settings on the X-Fi audio control panel ? Do I want to set the windows speaker configuration to 5.1, or enable "Optimize speaker output for headphones" in the Creative control panel ? Or both?  When I have the speaker config set to 5.1 I also get the option to select "Stereo Surround" or "Stereo Xpand" under the CMSS-3D settings, what do these do?

 

edit: nevermind read the relevant bits in the original post.


Edited by zerocraft - 11/28/12 at 5:10pm
post #975 of 3278
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by genclaymore View Post

The reason why i don't mention Eqing to people is its a pain since you would have to fool with it until you get it the way you want it.  I used to be a op-amp roller before I switched to distree setup.  I liked the LME49720NA with certain headphones but not with others, I mention the LME49720NA because it was the only op-amp I could remember. Since I haven't rolled op-amps in a long time so i in up forgetting about the different ones I rolled that I liked and didn't like. Tho when I did it on the Titanium HD I was changing both the I/V and the two buffers or using the RCA out which used both I/V and Buffers, so i was doing a 2x LME49720NA with the default 2x LME49710NA that was in the buffer socket which even it out.

 

The LME 49720NA isn't gonna work for every one, just like the JRcs you mention not working for every one. It just depends on the sound signature you want just like the OPA2134 which I hate which also drives me crazy.  I removed them quicky and replaced them with something else.  There are other op-amps that can be used instead of the LME49720NA's like the Metal cap ver which is better then the chip ver. I do know there was also alot of Good Linear ones that I can't remember. Including ones that had the sound signature that you wanted.  I just can't recall them as I forgot them all after I went to this Audio-GB NFB-12 just from not doing any op-amp rolling after wards since its a distree setup.

 

I often forget that I'm used to tweaking things until they're exactly the way I want them. First thing I do when I start a new game? Go straight into the options menu and check the controls. (For FPSs and TPSs, I end up having to rebind everything anyway due to my Tribes 2-instilled ESDF preference.) Something sound off with a new set of headphones? Fire up the tone generator and play around with the EQ a bit.

 

This tweak-mindedness extends to my choice of gaming peripherals, too. I generally demand something that at least allows custom mapping of physical buttons and axes to logical actions, if not support for a full-on scripting language.

 

Anyway, audio is definitely a subjective thing, and maybe there are other opamp combinations that work significantly better than stock LME49710/LME49860 for all I know. I just haven't bothered to experiment since I think the card sounds fine in its stock configuration.

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