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The Nameless Guide To PC Gaming Audio (with binaural headphone surround sound) - Page 111

post #1651 of 3032

PCIE 1x can be inserted into any PCIE 16x slot, so the soundcard could also run underneath the graphics card.

post #1652 of 3032
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chubtoad View Post

Only my front USB slots are hooked up but I don't use them. Everything plugged into the back. I have a coolermaster haf x case. From what I gather its basically EMI from gpu/CPU/mouse or some combination of. My sound card is in the pci express slot sandwiched between my CPU and gpu so maybe if I move it to another free slot but I think the only free slot is right below the gpu since it takes up 2 slots on its own. I could also move the gpu down a slot and see if that helps.

 

That could certainly be it. My card in my rig is right in between a decent size RAID card and an even larger Intel NIC, so it gets a bit of shielding from both major sources of interference (PSU and GPU). The small metal cover seems to deal well enough with the other directions/reflections. Surprised I don't have more interference from the GPU especially when I'm busy heavily overclocking my monitor (Yamakasi Catleap IPS). Now I actually pick up much more interference off my cell on the cable itself, and that's a thick hand-braided aftermarket replacement cable (strangely, the wifi router just 3 feet away has no such problems)

post #1653 of 3032

I'm curious what you guys are leaving your windows volume at. 100%?  I've been testing out different volume levels, 100, 75, and 60.

 

at 100% windows volume you don't get as much control with the asgard 2 as opposed to 60% obviously, I'm just not sure if there is some sort of recommended level to leave it at. With windows volume at 100% i generally leave the amp at around 9-10 o clock. the hiss/humming noise during games is reduced drastically by doing that as opposed to 60% volume and turning the amp to around 1-2 o clock

post #1654 of 3032
100% as you're getting the full bit resolution. Normally, music is 16 bit, so if you have a 24 bit dac, you can lower the volume and not lose information as long as the sound properties was changed to 24 bit), but for the piece of mind I don't ever mess with software volume, and keep it maxed. You're also taxing the amp less when you leave the volume on the computer maxed.
post #1655 of 3032

It's currently set to the default which was 24 bit, 48000 hz (studio quality)

 

theres an option for 24 bit, 96000 hz (studio quality) as well 

post #1656 of 3032
Not sure for every device, but for my Compass 2, I believe Kingwa stated to leave it at the highest possible levels.

32/192 for USB, and 24/96 for SPDIF (at least with the DIR9001 chip). I still think the Spdif sounds just a micro-level better,
Edited by Mad Lust Envy - 7/1/13 at 12:01pm
post #1657 of 3032
I know people think the U3 is a bad device, but what they're not realizing, is that you can bypass both the amp AND dac and keep Dolby headphone. You just need a spdif dac (not sure if some of you use USB dacs or whatnot). The U3's 3.5mm audio jack is also an spdif jack, so once you attach a dac (something as great and cheap as the Fiio D03k), you are no longer dealing with the U3's imperfections, and using it solely for the software and Dolby Headphone.

My setup:

Gaming:

Alienware M17x R4 - USB - Xonar U3 - Spdif out - Fiio D03k - Analog in - Compass 2 - Headphones

^This setup is a daunting, but the Xonar and Fiio are small and will be hidden away behind the desk. I just use a USB hub which everything connects to, and only the USB cable from the hub goes to my laptop. This way I get Dolby Headphone from the Xonar U3, but I bypass the internal dac AND amp and use the Fiio D03K's dac/Compass 2's amp. I wouldn't need the Fiio D03k in this situation, but as I mentioned before, my Compass 2's dac won't play nicely with the U3 for some reason.

Gaming AND music sound stellar with this setup (though for music I go with my Compass 2 directly hooked up to the spdif out on my laptop, which is an easy button on the Compass 2 to switch from the gaming setup to the music one), though the U3 is limited up to 16bit/96khz. Not a problem as most music is 16 bit anyways.

For $40, the U3 is pretty damn ideal for PC gaming, as you won't need to needless waste money on a great soundcard when you already have good audiophile amp/dacs at your disposal. (Well, some of us).
Edited by Mad Lust Envy - 7/1/13 at 12:22pm
post #1658 of 3032

Ok so I've had the chance now to set up and test out the Annies/Asgard 2 combo with my Astro mixamp on the PS3.

 

There is no hum noise when a game is loaded and I crank up the amps volume to maximum. There is also no interference/crosstalk/feedback noises either. There is however a very very slight hiss noise but I suspect that is from the Astro mixamp, and I don't obviously play games with the amps volume cranked to max.

 

 

Perhaps the Asgard 2 just doesn't want to play nice with my PC? or with the X-Fi Titanium HD? does anybody else have this setup?

post #1659 of 3032
Mixamp will have some noise, especially the more recent Mixamp models.
post #1660 of 3032

the only time I can hear the "hiss" type noise is if I crank my amp volume to max, but at any reasonable listening level I cant hear anything its basically silent.

post #1661 of 3032

I didn't have the issue at all when i was using a Recon3D  PCI-E thru optical into my external dac amp. Only time I remember having it with a Fiio E3 portabile amp that I was using with a X-Fi Xtreme music i think it was,but it was a very long time ago.

post #1662 of 3032

Hey guys long time lurker first time poster, 

 

I have a few questions - 

 

Recently I have purchased Annies, which will primarily used with my computer (gaming first and foremost and then music/anime/movies) and maybe possibly for console use down the track.

After reading through majority thread I have become a little confused.

 

Currently from what I understand I need to purchase a sound card/ external equivalent to produce virtual surround sound and also amp. 

 

I was planning to purchase o2/odac combination and a Asus Xonar Essence STX for Dolby Headphone. My main problem is how to connect these all together and whether I should consider another option to output the virtual surround sound to the headphones. 

 

Thank you very much.

post #1663 of 3032
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavMalheur View Post

Hey guys long time lurker first time poster, 

 

I have a few questions - 

 

Recently I have purchased Annies, which will primarily used with my computer (gaming first and foremost and then music/anime/movies) and maybe possibly for console use down the track.

After reading through majority thread I have become a little confused.

 

Currently from what I understand I need to purchase a sound card/ external equivalent to produce virtual surround sound and also amp. 

 

I was planning to purchase o2/odac combination and a Asus Xonar Essence STX for Dolby Headphone. My main problem is how to connect these all together and whether I should consider another option to output the virtual surround sound to the headphones. 

 

Thank you very much.

 

I don't see why you're even bothering with the ODAC if you're buying a sound card like the Xonar Essence STX.

 

Just get the Objective2, if the STX's built-in amp isn't good enough for you or the K702 65th.

post #1664 of 3032
Quote:
Originally Posted by NamelessPFG View Post

 

I don't see why you're even bothering with the ODAC if you're buying a sound card like the Xonar Essence STX.

 

Just get the Objective2, if the STX's built-in amp isn't good enough for you or the K702 65th.

 

Cheers,

 

I will guess I will buy the Xonar Essence STX first and see if I need a Objective2 later down the track. If I did purchase an Objective2 I am guessing I would use the S/PDIF output from the Xonar Essence STX and use a S/PDIF to 3.5 mm converter to connect to the Objective 2 amp which would transmit Dolby Headphone?  Would there be any problems STX>S/PDIF to 3.5mm>Objective2>Annies?

post #1665 of 3032
That is the million dollar question.

Just letting you know, if you just want the soundcard for Dolby headphone, I'd save money and purchase the Xonar U3 (or whatever internal soundcard equivalent there is possibly Xonar DG), as it's only $40, and you ONLY need the software/Dolby Headphone to transmit to the spdif out to a real dac and amp. That means that the lackluster dac and amp in the U3 wouldn't be used.

I say this, because the STX's internals would be wasted, as all it'd be doing is sending a digital signal to your dac/amp. Assuming the STX keeps Dolby headphone through it's Spdif (not all soundcards do).

But if you're getting the STX, the internal amp is basically the same thing as the Fiio E9K, meaning it's plenty powerful, and upgrading from the STX's internal amp to the O2 won't be really worthwhile, especially for the Annies which aren't really affected by the STX's 10ohm output impedance.
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