Thanks for all the replys guys! I really appreciate your help. I got my D2ks recabled successfully.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
determinedd 
Also, only strip enough wire to be soldered to the pin so one wire doesn't touch another pin. The Radio Shack plugs I got have screws so I tinned the wires then screwed them on before soldering. Also, I used electrical tape to shield afterward instead of the removable clear plastic sheath.
I didn't end up putting electrical tape or anything on the flanges, I was scared that if I had worked around them i would accidentally destroy the joints I had made.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
determinedd
By plastic insulator I assume you mean the piece that holds the pins (for the wires) in place and not the clear sheath that slips off. After many failures myself I would suggest a pencil style soldering iron (not gun) no more than 30W, a fresh tip with a very small point, electronic or high-tech solder, a "helping hands" tool to hold the wires while you solder, keep your tip freshly tinned (silver not brown or black) while you solder and be patient. You can do it, just might take some tries to practice getting the wires in the right place using one of the bad plugs first.
Yes, thats what I was talking about, I don't have a "helping hands", so I used my real hands and burned them quite a bit in the process. Also my Iron was 45w with no heat control, yes, it was very difficult.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
liamstrain pre tin both the wires, and the connector, so you don't need to keep the heat on it as long. A little flux might help as well. And as per determinedd above, keep your tip tinned too.
Use a helping hands alligator clamp to act as a heat sink on the connector (make sure it is clamped on the on the part your are soldering: tip/ring/sleeve), that will help prevent melty.
What I ended up doing was threading the wires through the little holes in the flanges then I melted some solder on the tip of the iron and dabbed it on the flanges creating a "joint", it was a really dodgy soldering job but i guess it ended up working out in the end. I was the heatsink this time around.... Oh and I used the 3.5mm plug from radio shack, works really well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Tommy Thong Just give advice, give a little solder flux first @the connector joint tap then you will melt them with 60-40 rosin core solder, strip the wire (around 1-2mm) and give the copper wire with the flux( just a little dip), and also don't forget to put the connector cover first before you do any connection between the cable with the connector, and gud luck
I used 60-40 solder which i reckon is better than the cheap crap that came with my iron. I don't have flux, but I got the job done somehow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Steve Eddy
Good advise.
Flux is your friend. Don't ever rely only on the flux in the solder. That's only there to keep flux flowing as you continue to add solder when you need to.
se
Thanks, I'll remember to buy flux next time around.
Now, how do they sound? Well the improvement is very generous for the money I payed to recable them. Everything is more refined, its a bit brighter, the bass is now very clear, less muddy, and the soundstage has improved slightly. I didnt think recabling could actually change sound. But Im more surprised they work after my crappy soldering job, also I wasnt able to read your guys' replies before I finished the job, but thanks!
