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cup tuning basics. - Page 20

post #286 of 293

Thanks!!  I'll definitely check out his posts, and perhaps bug him for advice. These are only my first attempt, on rather limited research. On thing I bumped into since then was an oval wooden cup that was reportedly intended to eliminate standing waves. Back in my bio-physics consulting days, we used patterned texture foams for microwave emission attenuation. I could conceivably cut these types of patterns. I'm sure a combination of these could effectively be used in a headphone, but it seems to me that part of the point of using tone woods is to deliberately introduce certain resonances. Also, I wouldn't expect much from an open cup design, as most of the energy behind the drivers would exit the headphone as opposed to being reflected around and back to the ears. By the way, I am accustomed to and can handle a fair amount of madness.

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 90

    -Brian M. Abel

     Pony Feathers

post #287 of 293

I'm newbie here. I've just bought my first Grado SR60 headphones. I've read topics about modding and the one that interst me the most is this one.

20 pages of try&fail (mostly) which ended in finding perfect solution for theLostMIDrange. I almost bought mahogany cup from the ebay, but as far as I understand I could have made a big mistake. It seems that not every cup would fit specific driver.

I would love to make cups for sr60 myself. Is there any info about measurement of the cups?

Maybe someone has sr60s and bought/made some cups and they sound right?

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Kind regards,

Rauliki

PS. thelostMIDrange, did you mean black limba when you wrote in this topic?


Edited by Rauliki - 7/20/13 at 12:39pm
post #288 of 293

Hey guys, midrange has been pretty vacant around here.. So, I'm gonna try to fill in a bit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ponyfeathers View Post

Thanks!!  I'll definitely check out his posts, and perhaps bug him for advice. These are only my first attempt, on rather limited research. On thing I bumped into since then was an oval wooden cup that was reportedly intended to eliminate standing waves. Back in my bio-physics consulting days, we used patterned texture foams for microwave emission attenuation. I could conceivably cut these types of patterns. I'm sure a combination of these could effectively be used in a headphone, but it seems to me that part of the point of using tone woods is to deliberately introduce certain resonances. Also, I wouldn't expect much from an open cup design, as most of the energy behind the drivers would exit the headphone as opposed to being reflected around and back to the ears. By the way, I am accustomed to and can handle a fair amount of madness.

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 90

    -Brian M. Abel

     Pony Feathers

It wouldn't hurt to try an oval. But, I would stay away from any foam or patterns designed to dampen the cups. One thing you don't want in a grado is a dead or dampened cup.. IMO. It just doesn't work.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rauliki View Post

I'm newbie here. I've just bought my first Grado SR60 headphones. I've read topics about modding and the one that interst me the most is this one.

20 pages of try&fail (mostly) which ended in finding perfect solution for theLostMIDrange. I almost bought mahogany cup from the ebay, but as far as I understand I could have made a big mistake. It seems that not every cup would fit specific driver.

I would love to make cups for sr60 myself. Is there any info about measurement of the cups?

Maybe someone has sr60s and bought/made some cups and they sound right?

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Kind regards,

Rauliki

PS. thelostMIDrange, did you mean black limba when you wrote in this topic?

Careful buying cups online, and I do not have the measurements on hand :( I do know that it is best to stay around 1.25" on the length of the cups.

I have heard plenty of bought/home made cups that sounded right, and others that did not!

He meant "white limba" I am pretty sure. I do not know if there is a difference in the sound between white vs black.

post #289 of 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislangley4253 View Post

Hey guys, midrange has been pretty vacant around here.. So, I'm gonna try to fill in a bit.

It wouldn't hurt to try an oval. But, I would stay away from any foam or patterns designed to dampen the cups. One thing you don't want in a grado is a dead or dampened cup.. IMO. It just doesn't work.

 

Careful buying cups online, and I do not have the measurements on hand :( I do know that it is best to stay around 1.25" on the length of the cups.

I have heard plenty of bought/home made cups that sounded right, and others that did not!

He meant "white limba" I am pretty sure. I do not know if there is a difference in the sound between white vs black.

 

Hi Chris.

 

Thanks for clarification.

Yesterday I noticed that my sr60's are probably some vinage model, they have blue foam, old looking cardbox. I think I won't make any modifications to them. They sound pretty good anyway. I wouldn't like to break the sound I hear*

Of course if there will be chance to try some limba cups I will try.

 

* I would rather buy another pair to test :)


Edited by Rauliki - 7/22/13 at 11:31am
post #290 of 293

I am heavy digging again.

I am interrested in wood cups for closed: CAL,

and open: Beyer DT990 600 ohm phones.

I would love some advice on the equipment I need to pull that off, I have basic eq like drill sandpaper and chizzle and hammer :D pretty old school.

It would be my first attempt at doing this so I would love to start with CAL so I have less stuff to **** up.

I am looking forward to your advice.

Experts gather!

post #291 of 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaszanas View Post
 

I am heavy digging again.

I am interrested in wood cups for closed: CAL,

and open: Beyer DT990 600 ohm phones.

I would love some advice on the equipment I need to pull that off, I have basic eq like drill sandpaper and chizzle and hammer :D pretty old school.

It would be my first attempt at doing this so I would love to start with CAL so I have less stuff to **** up.

I am looking forward to your advice.

Experts gather!

 

I started with a drill press, hole-saws, files and sandpaper. You can make some great cups that way. You need to cut out your basic shape, and find a way to mount it on the drill press (I used nuts and bolts). Then you can have the drill spin it while you sand and shape with files. Don't try Ebony on your first go. Pick something easy to work and relatively soft like Mahogany or Walnut.

 

You get more precision with a lathe, but can't beat the above for a starter kit...

post #292 of 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleasbaby View Post
 

 

I started with a drill press, hole-saws, files and sandpaper. You can make some great cups that way. You need to cut out your basic shape, and find a way to mount it on the drill press (I used nuts and bolts). Then you can have the drill spin it while you sand and shape with files. Don't try Ebony on your first go. Pick something easy to work and relatively soft like Mahogany or Walnut.

 

You get more precision with a lathe, but can't beat the above for a starter kit...

Okay! Will try something along those lines, maybe not now, but I need to plan on how I would like to proceed, first I would have to gather all the resources to make that and then just have some spare time and fun with the wood work ;)

 

Do you have any exact recommendations when it comes to the earcup wall measurements?

 

what about that tool?

post #293 of 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaszanas View Post
 

Okay! Will try something along those lines, maybe not now, but I need to plan on how I would like to proceed, first I would have to gather all the resources to make that and then just have some spare time and fun with the wood work ;)

 

Do you have any exact recommendations when it comes to the earcup wall measurements?

 

what about that tool?

 

Wall thickness? Depends on the can you're modding. Thinner is harder to do as well. I would avoid going under a 1/4 of an inch until you have access to a lathe.

 

A dremmel (that thing above) is great to have, but use it sparingly and with a steady hand. I usually use mine to clean off extrusions on parts I used to mount them on my lathe's chuck.

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