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V-MODA M-100: Discussion/Feedback, Reviews, Pics, etc. - Page 1306

post #19576 of 22939
Quote:
Originally Posted by SomeGuyDude View Post

I have to admit it's the biggest flaw on the M100s. You can swap out the earpads and the shields, but it's a PITA in both cases. 

That's not a flaw. The real flaw is that they made the pads so small in the first place. If they had sized them for human ears there would be no need to make them removable.
post #19577 of 22939
Quote:
Originally Posted by ratinox View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by miceblue View Post

I took apart the left driver and it looks the same. Red and orange wires from the driver to the PCB, red/orange/blue wires to the PCB from the braided cable. I'm guessing blue is the common ground.

Headphones and speakers don't have ground wires, common or otherwise. Single-ended headphones share the positive lead as a common return. That's probably the red wires. The shared PCB solder points supports this. The orange wires are left and right channels. I'm still not sure what the blue wire is but it doesn't appear to be attached to anything. It might simply be a leftover from 3 lead wire that's been soldered down to keep it tidy. Again, someone would have to get in there with a multi-tester to be sure.
I can try it when I get back home with a sine wave playing.

Headphone jacks have L/R/G for the TRS connection, so that's why I thought orange was ground. Both drivers have the orange and they both go to the middle two solder joints.

From the Six Moons diagram there, the - wires connecting to both earcups go to the shared common ground terminal of the TRS connection, so I was calling them ground.
post #19578 of 22939
Quote:
Originally Posted by miceblue View Post

From the Six Moons diagram there, the - wires connecting to both earcups go to the shared common ground terminal of the TRS connection, so I was calling them ground.

Don't mind me so much about that. I'm probably being overly pedantic about it.
post #19579 of 22939
Return instead of ground. Ok that makes more sense thanks smily_headphones1.gif
post #19580 of 22939
Could the blue wire have something to do with there being 2 inputs? Like it somehow links them together? I'm just making guesses really :/
post #19581 of 22939
Quote:
Originally Posted by ratinox View Post


I'm not hating because they're Beats. I'm hating because I have no hair. I've sported a "Telly Savalas" for years. So when I say "pleather on scalp is yuck" I mean it literally.

good that you cleared that up

post #19582 of 22939

After a couple weeks of listening to LFF's pencil-flat Paradox, I had to do something about the M-100's bass-heavy signature. It was tame or sell time and digital equalization/DSP just ended up accentuating the M-100's slightly artificial upper treble timbre. This was not an acceptable outcome.

 

So, I tried out the micropore tape mod Ratinox mentioned earlier on in the thread. (Used Johnson & Johnson Secure Comfort Tape, two layers. $4.39 at our local Walgreens.) That did it...a 3-3.5 db reduction, mostly in the mid-bass region. The reduction in midbass had the net effect of making the mids seem less recessed as well. 

 

Love it. I should have done it earlier. 

 

Next Day Edit: It did everything I mentioned above, but it also seems to have done something to the midrange tonality. Either a smearing or a muddying of the M-100's very solid, coherent presentation. (Became painfully obvious while listening to Neil Finn and Paul Simon.) Reversed it for now. Going to try various layers, shapes, and tape types and see if I can get that out of there. 


Edited by AustinValentine - 3/24/14 at 10:09am
post #19583 of 22939
Quote:
Originally Posted by indieman View Post

Could the blue wire have something to do with there being 2 inputs? Like it somehow links them together? I'm just making guesses really :/

I don't think so. The traces on the PCB don't appear to connect the blue lead to anything.

Think of it like wiring up a pair of speakers. Each speaker gets a negative (hot) wire and a positive (return) wire. There's no neutral (ground) wire. Balanced headphone wiring is exactly the same as wiring speakers. Single-ended headphone wiring merges the two positive wires into a single wire or lead at some point in the circuit.

The orange and red leads are obviously negative and positive leads for the drivers. The blue lead appears to be superfluous.
post #19584 of 22939
Anyway, converting a headphone into a balanced headphone depends on how the headphone is wired.

Dual entry headphones like Sennheiser HD 600 and Koss KSC-75 are already balanced for the most part. They use twin two-conductor wire with the positive wires merged in the phone plug. Converting them to be fully balanced requires removing the phone plug and replacing it with connectors that keep the positive wires separate.

Converting single entry headphones like Audio-Technica ATH-M50 is more invasive since the positive wire merge is inside the cup near the cable entry. The merge needs to be removed so that each driver has a "private" positive wire. Detachable cable jacks need to be removed as well. You also need to replace the cable if the stock cable has three conductors.

Converting single entry, dual entry port headphones like M-100 is even more invasive since the positive wire merges and the entry jacks need to be removed in both cups. This is what makes it impossible to be both balanced and single-ended at the same time.
post #19585 of 22939
I'll check the connections when I get back home. XD

My guess is that red is + (ring or tip of TRS connection), orange is - (which connects to the ground sleeve of a TRS connection), and blue is a connection to the other driver to connect to the other + channel (ring or tip of TRS connection).

There has to be a ground somewhere, no?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phone_connector_%28audio%29




And as posted earlier:
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/balancedheadphones/one.html


The - leads connecting to both drivers share the grounded sleeve connection, while the positive leads get their own amplifier (L/R audio channels).
Quote:
A normal headphone cable plug has three connections on it: the tip is left; the ring is right; and the sleeve is ground. The tip connects to a wire that goes to the positive (+) lead of the left headphone driver coil; the ring connects to a wire that goes to the positive lead of the right driver. The sleeve connects to a wire that goes to both negative (-) terminals of the drive coil; this wire usually has a solder joint in the "Y" or in the earpiece where the ground wire from the plug splits into separate wires that are connected to the negative terminals of the driver coils.

Edited by miceblue - 3/24/14 at 10:07am
post #19586 of 22939
Quote:
Originally Posted by miceblue View Post

I'll check the connections when I get back home. XD

That's the only way to be sure. smily_headphones1.gif

Quote:
There has to be a ground somewhere, no?

Well... it's not necessary but it's a good idea to have a ground.
There's no neutral wire in headphone or speaker driver wiring so the ground, if there is one, needs to piggyback on one of the live wires.

Note: it's likely that I swapped polarities (+/-). Mea culpa.
post #19587 of 22939

Hey everyone I have a pretty simple problem. The cord that came with my m-100's has shorted out. I got another cable but I noticed the m-100s sound very flat with the new cable. Can anyone name a cable replacement that came be picked up at one of the chain stores (don't want to really wait on mail if I can avoid it). I went to bestbuy and all they had was their brand that is to big to fit into the m-100s.

post #19588 of 22939

I just ordered from VModa, but I've tried my random ones from Amazon and they all worked. Just look at the picture and make sure it's got a small connection.

post #19589 of 22939
Quote:
Originally Posted by SomeGuyDude View Post

I just ordered from VModa, but I've tried my random ones from Amazon and they all worked. Just look at the picture and make sure it's got a small connection.
Erm...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Madelynn View Post

don't want to really wait on mail if I can avoid it

How about one of those cables from RadioShack that looks like a shoelace and has a bright colour scheme with the silver threads for looks?



Wow, I thought I posted, but I guess it didn't get through. Well I just stopped by a RadioShack since it was on the way and, yup, I think they should work.
post #19590 of 22939

Oh yeah, the Auvio cables are good stuff. Should do you just fine. Might even sound better than the Speakeasy cable since there's no mic. 

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