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Emotiva Pro airmotiv4 Loudspeakers Review - Page 25

post #361 of 410
I use an ODAC and Schiit Asgard 2 with my setup. The ODAC with the 3.5mm audio output is very tiny, so doesn't take up an appreciable amount of space to have both in your setup.
post #362 of 410

The airmotivs are active and sound perfectly good enough on its own without a separate amp (or a pre-amp).

 

I run it out of the Audio-GD 3.3 (their lower-end dedicated DAC) through USB to coaxial converter by using Nuforce U192S and it sounds very good.  The combo should fit right around the 400 dollar budget, lot cheaper if bought used.

post #363 of 410

Thanks for the suggestions.  I've added the Asgaard + (Odac or Modi) to my list, which was Audiengine D1, the Maverick D1+, GF Tubedac-11, and Yulong D100 (although the D100 does not have volume control coupled to the preamp output). I've also added the Nuforce U1925 as a possible consideration.

 

Just to clarify, I'm looking for a device with a built in headphone jack and headphone amp, not a speaker amp. My working environment requires that I be able to switch between speakers and headphones quickly and easily.  I'm also looking for a device with line out volume control (like a preamp) because a rep at Emotiva told me I need one, and it's also in the manual. The volume controls on the front of the Airmotivs are normally left on maximum, or adjusted once for room acoustics. They aren't intended to be used for continuous adjustment while listening. You can try it, but it will be hard to maintain a balanced volume since they operate independently of each other.

 

Because I need a dac, headphone jack and headphone amp, volume control and means of switching between speakers and headphones in the device(s), adding a USB to SPDIF convertor wouldn't leave much funds for the other functions, so the Nuforce U1925 is probably not a practical investment at my price point.  I appreciate the pointer though.

post #364 of 410
Quote:
Originally Posted by ed45 View Post
Because I need a dac, headphone jack and headphone amp, volume control and means of switching between speakers and headphones in the device(s), adding a USB to SPDIF convertor wouldn't leave much funds for the other functions, so the Nuforce U1925 is probably not a practical investment at my price point.  I appreciate the pointer though.

 

You should check out the Audio-GD NFB 11.32. I have one with these speakers and set of K702 65ths and I couldn't be happier. It also fits nicely into your price point. The NFB 15.32 is also another option. 

post #365 of 410

The NFB 15.32 was actually my first choice. I was in the process of ordering one with the TXCO upgrade when the good people at Audio-GD told me that it wasn't guaranteed to work with the USB 3.0 ports on my late 2012 iMac.  I was also told that the SPDIF port should work fine, but since that port max-es out at 96/24 on my iMac, and with the added issue of computer noise (since mine is not a dedicated music server), I didn't want to go in that direction.  But yeah, Audio-GD is a good suggestion.


Edited by ed45 - 11/5/13 at 6:40pm
post #366 of 410
Quote:
Originally Posted by ed45 View Post

The NFB 15.32 was actually my first choice. I was in the process of ordering one with the TXCO upgrade when the good people at Audio-GD told me that it wasn't guaranteed to work with the USB 3.0 ports on my late 2012 iMac.  I was also told that the SPDIF port should work fine, but since that port max-es out at 96/24 on my iMac, and with the added issue of computer noise (since mine is not a dedicated music server), I didn't want to go in that direction.  But yeah, Audio-GD is a good suggestion.

You are the 2nd person I saw today post about problems with a USB DAC having compatibility problems with USB 3.0 ports, only the other was a Windows Surface Pro tablet. I'm surprised that this is a problem.

Since you just bought Emotiva, did you know that the Emotiva XDA-2 is on sale for $299? It's a DAC/headphone amp/pre-amp with what you need. Might see if it it will do what you want.
post #367 of 410

I've been trying to figure out why USB3 ports would cause problems for DACs.  USB 3.0 provides for an additional bus next to the USB 2.0 bus, but it should be invisible to a device plugged into the port using a USB2 cord, so ... beats me.  However, I have seen more than a few reports of DACs crapping out on USB3 ports, going back a few years.  FWIW, I emailed Schiit and Audioengine.  AE said that that their D1 should work with USB3 because of backwards compatibility, and Nick from Schiit said that they commonly connect their DACs to USB3 ports, including those on Macs, and there are no compatibility issues.

 

Regarding the Emotiva XDA-2, that's a great suggestion, but its footprint (17” W x 2.25” H x 14” D) is far too large for the space available on my desk. I guess its size isn't surprising when you consider that it's pro audio gear designed to go on a rack.

post #368 of 410
The other post I saw, the manufacturer said it was a firmware issue with the DAC. I'm wondering if some of the DACs took shortcuts with the USB spec that is now a problem with 3.0.

And yeah, the XDA-2 footprint is not great unless you have a shelf nearby. It does have a remote control, but there's still that inconvenience of plugging and unplugging headphones.
post #369 of 410
Quote:
Originally Posted by auee View Post
 

Would you be kind enough to identify the specific  hi-fi tuning supreme fuse needed for a pair of Emotiva Airmotiv 4, how many and where I can find instructions for changing out the fuses?

 I was looking at some old unread posts and I came across your old post. Sorry it took so long to read the post. I am not sure about the fuse size for the airmotiv 4s. I suggest you send emotive a email inquiring about the fuse size for the airmotiv 4s. They promptly answered my requests for the fuse size for my airmotiv 5s. If you have not changed the fuses yet I definitely recommend you do so. The improvement in sound quality from the change is very noticeable for the better. You need two fuses one for each speaker. The fuse holder is on the rear panel right under the power cord inlet. There is a narrow slot on the holder you just insert the blade from a small screwdriver in the the slot and pry it up gently and the fuse holder pops up. Just slide the fuse holder out and the fuse is contained in the plastic holder. The hifi tuning fuses are directional. The correct orientation is when the lettering for the hifi tuning fuse is below the symbol on the fuse.Just pop in the fuse into the holder and reinsert the fuse holder back into its slot. The fuse holder should snap in place and the job is done.


Edited by buson160man - 11/6/13 at 7:38pm
post #370 of 410

The fuse should be 1A slow.  I'm sure it's an 1A, but not sure whether it is fast or slow.  I have the hifi-tuning fuse installed on mine (bought mine used with it installed).

 

Can't tell if there's any improvements because I've never tried the generic fuse and the speakers sound plenty good as it is already.

post #371 of 410
Quote:
Originally Posted by ed45 View Post
 

The NFB 15.32 was actually my first choice. I was in the process of ordering one with the TXCO upgrade when the good people at Audio-GD told me that it wasn't guaranteed to work with the USB 3.0 ports on my late 2012 iMac.  I was also told that the SPDIF port should work fine, but since that port max-es out at 96/24 on my iMac, and with the added issue of computer noise (since mine is not a dedicated music server), I didn't want to go in that direction.  But yeah, Audio-GD is a good suggestion.


I've been using my new 15.32 for almost 3 weeks, no regrets.

Feel no need to going back to using the headphone amplifier on my Essence STX (AD797BR).

post #372 of 410
Quote:
Originally Posted by PurpleAngel View Post


I've been using my new 15.32 for almost 3 weeks, no regrets.
Feel no need to going back to using the headphone amplifier on my Essence STX (AD797BR).

What! You've abandoned your STX for another dac/amp now? I knew you got the 15.32, but your STX must be upset wink.gif

smily_headphones1.gif
post #373 of 410
Quote:
Originally Posted by cel4145 View Post


What! You've abandoned your STX for another dac/amp now? I knew you got the 15.32, but your STX must be upset wink.gif

smily_headphones1.gif


Yea, my STX just sits there and cries.:frown:


Edited by PurpleAngel - 11/12/13 at 11:33pm
post #374 of 410

Thanks to all who responded to my questions - much appreciated!  I did receive my Airmotiv 4s (2nd pair, one of the 1st pair was defective with a sputtering tweeter) and I'm still auditioning them, but so far so good. They're very revealing and the bass response seems more than adequate for me. I think they'll end up being a keeper.

 

So I waffled on the DAC - a lot.  (Thus the double edit.) For anyone who cares, I ended up going for a fully loaded Geek Pulse X by Light Harmonic with every available upgrade.  Well beyond my original budget, but it presented a chance to get a DAC at a level of quality and with features (384K, Femto clock, etc.) that I otherwise couldn't afford. The downside is I have to wait until June, but it provides an upgrade path that should last for years. The Pulse X comes with both balanced and unbalanced outputs (and headphone jacks) so I can try connecting the Airmotivs with XLR and RCA cables, and see which mode I like best.


Edited by ed45 - 12/20/13 at 10:46pm
post #375 of 410
Quote:
Originally Posted by auee View Post
 

Would you be kind enough to identify the specific  hi-fi tuning supreme fuse needed for a pair of Emotiva Airmotiv 4, how many and where I can find instructions for changing out the fuses?

I am not sure about the fuse rating for the airmotiv 4 because I have the airmotv 5s. If you are not sure email emotiva and inquire about the fuse size for the airmotiv 4. They were very helpful when I inquired about the fuse size on all the emotiva powered speakers that I have owned. I have had three the airmotiv 5, the airmotiv 6(sold off replaced by the stealth 8) and the stealth 8.Each speaker has one fuse in it. The fuse is easily accessed from the rear panel. They are directly under the the iec power inlet. If you look there is a symbol of a fuse on the removable fuse holder. There is a small slot located just under the iec power inlet. Just place the blade from a small screwdriver in the slot and pry the fuse holder out do not do it forcefully just a little pry and the fuse holder will pop out. The fuse are directional so put the fuse in the holder with the hifi tuning fuse name on the bottom and reading left to right. Just slide trhe fuse holder back into the speaker and it will snap back in place. If it does not flip the fuse holder over and try it again.

  These type of fuse holder are becoming more common on equipment. They make changing fuses much easier and makes it unnecessary to open up the unit.

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