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Woo Audio WA6 + WA6SE: Tubes, Comments, Pictures, and Advice - Page 90

post #1336 of 1599
Quote:
Originally Posted by joseph69 View Post
 
 

 

Actually, mine says it was last updated 4/1014 at the bottom of the page on the left hand side;

https://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=0Ama6VqAKDF7adFlpSFh2ZDVMdnBfS2VpSUxfcEVpTnc&hl=en&output=html

 

 

 

Maybe I should compare lists.  Perhaps it's so rare now that it's not worth listing.  I bought mine from him over a year ago.


Edited by bbophead - 4/7/14 at 7:04pm
post #1337 of 1599
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbophead View Post
 

 

 

Maybe I should compare lists.  Perhaps it's so rare now that it's not worth listing.  I bought mine from him over a year ago.

I was thinking the same thing when I didn't see the 596…that it wasn't available anymore.

I would like to see the chart that you have also, can you post the link for me please? Thanks.

post #1338 of 1599
Quote:
Originally Posted by joseph69 View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbophead View Post
 

 

 

Maybe I should compare lists.  Perhaps it's so rare now that it's not worth listing.  I bought mine from him over a year ago.

I was thinking the same thing when I didn't see the 596…that it wasn't available anymore.

I would like to see the chart that you have also, can you post the link for me please? Thanks.

Don't have a link.  It would be on the Woo site but he prolly took down the old list.

post #1339 of 1599

596 is good to go on the WA6/SE, just need an adapter from Jack or 2359glenn.  I have one used on WA6SE with glenn's adapter.

 

596 is so rare, may be that's why it's not on the list? 

 

Another crazy expensive rectifier tube is the WE422A (ask DubstepGirl, she knows all about the rectifiers) that is not on the list. 

 

Cheers...

post #1340 of 1599

bbophead, The only Woo amp that I see on the chart that I have which comes close to a 596 is for the WES "phase splitter", which is a 5963…otherwise I don't even see any other amps that state they take a 596.

post #1341 of 1599
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sko0byDoo View Post
 

596 is good to go on the WA6/SE, just need an adapter from Jack or 2359glenn.  I have one used on WA6SE with glenn's adapter.

 

596 is so rare, may be that's why it's not on the list? 

 

Another crazy expensive rectifier tube is the WE422A (ask DubstepGirl, she knows all about the rectifiers) that is not on the list. 

 

Cheers...

Thanks for the info.

How much does a 596 + adapter go for anyway?

Also what type of sound signature does it carry, or what other tube is it close too in character? Thanks.

post #1342 of 1599

So, I find that both the rectifier/driver-powers tube(s) influence the sound of the WA6…which one would you say influences the sound more, the rectifier or the driver-power tube(s)? Thanks.

post #1343 of 1599
Quote:
Originally Posted by joseph69 View Post
 

So, I find that both the rectifier/driver-powers tube(s) influence the sound of the WA6…which one would you say influences the sound more, the rectifier or the driver-power tube(s)? Thanks.

IMHO - it's about 80% rectifier, 20% driver in terms of noticeable change in the sound.

post #1344 of 1599
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveUpton View Post
 

IMHO - it's about 80% rectifier, 20% driver in terms of noticeable change in the sound.

You see, what I've got too stop doing is changing both rectifier/driver-power tubes at the same time, and just change one or the other and listen for a while. I had the S/P274B and the Sylvania 6SN7WGTA's in, but last night I switched to the Mullard-GZ34 and the GE-6FD7's. Tonight I'm going to put the 6SN7's back in with the GZ34 and hear how much of a difference there is between the driver-power tubes.

Are there any facts that you/anyone know of about this? Thanks.

post #1345 of 1599
Quote:
Originally Posted by joseph69 View Post
 

You see, what I've got too stop doing is changing both rectifier/driver-power tubes at the same time, and just change one or the other and listen for a while. I had the S/P274B and the Sylvania 6SN7WGTA's in, but last night I switched to the Mullard-GZ34 and the GE-6FD7's. Tonight I'm going to put the 6SN7's back in with the GZ34 and hear how much of a difference there is between the driver-power tubes.

Are there any facts that you/anyone know of about this? Thanks.

I review audio equipment semi-professionally and have been doing so for about 6 years. I try to test extensively and A/B as best I can. All my impressions are based on SPL calibrated listening levels (as levels change with diff. driver tubes) and a 20 minute warm-up, on a reference set of FLACs I use in reviews.

post #1346 of 1599

Thanks, now that I know that you do this semi-pro, your opinion makes a difference (not that it didn't before). I also experienced the different volume levels with different tubes immediately, and also let the amp/tubes warm up 20-30 minutes before listening…keep in mind I'm a casual listener, but sometimes can get critical. You've got me thinking that I should start with changing the rectifier tube for comparisons first and keeping the same driver-power tubes in exclusively for a while, I mainly use the S/P and the 6SN7's…so I think I will just put the 6SN7's back in tonight being I'm very familiar with them, this away I can base the difference on the rectifier tube, thanks.


Edited by joseph69 - 4/8/14 at 4:50pm
post #1347 of 1599

Has anyone tried the Mullard GZ34/5AR4 'new production' rectifier?

 

The Mullard GZ34 is an ultra efficient indirectly heated dual diode, full-wave vacuum rectifier. Providing a mere 10V drop in B+ (plate voltage) at full current demand, this rectifier insures a strong, dynamic response to your sound. An excellent and reliable choice, the Mullard GZ34 comes with a classic "coin" shaped octal base, dual getters for a more pure vacuum, dual mica spacers and full 30mm length internal plate structures. This tube is an excellent replacement of any GZ34 and 5AR4 rectifier tube.

post #1348 of 1599

No, but I do have a "new production" Mullard 5V4G/GZ32 which I paid about $45.00U.S., and it is not bad at all!

It is spacious and very detailed, but lacks a little body/fullness.


Edited by joseph69 - 4/8/14 at 8:58pm
post #1349 of 1599

Different rectifiers will give give different voltage drops (GZ34 least drop and others the drop increases). This in turn will operate the other tubes(pre / power) at different voltages and therefore different positions on their operating curves. Add to this the fact that everyones mains voltages are also different shows quite how many variables there are. My 250v is very different from others 220v but both are legal here. There are lots's of variables here on how we drive the pre / power tubes long before we even look at makes / types which themselves will also interact with the voltages being given by the rectifiers.

post #1350 of 1599

The WA6 is one of the amp I'm looking to power my Grado PS1000, mainly because it's good to know one can "tweak" the tubes to get what he wants.

Plus it's not a bad looking amp (it's needed because it'll be visible in my room).

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