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Sennheiser Recable - Why is this inside my HD428?

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 

Inside HD428

 

So I was recabling my HD428's, cause I'm real bored... and sick, and I was wondering:  Why do this?  Why put the extra expense of creating literally a useless PCB?

 

The only thing this PCB does is sum the ground cables.

 

Anyone have any ideas?

 

Mind you, this is going away.  As is this 32AGW wire.

 

 

I'll submit the full picture/writeup when I finish, for those that want to know.

post #2 of 6

It is probably there to better reject the ground potentials.  This in turn reduces noise and possible cross talk.

post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 

So here is the build post:

 

 

2011-12-06%2B16.16.56.jpg

 

4 screws (#0-4 or 1.2mm Phillips) are hidden behind this foam.  This will remove the driver housing.

 

2011-12-06%2B16.25.13.jpg

 

The drivers are sealed in with glue.  It's mostly easy to break the seal and remove the back of the housing.

Be careful here, as the 32AWG stock wire is very fragile.  You will have to remove the glue holding the wire in place as well.

 

 

2011-12-06%2B17.10.36.jpg

 

The almost finished new cable.  22gauge Teflon insulated.

 

2011-12-06%2B20.28.53.jpg

 

My first attempt did not work.  This hits the back of the housing. 

 

 

2011-12-06%2B20.40.20.jpg

 

I ended up running the wire through the stock location, after enlarging the hole.

 

2011-12-06%2B20.45.06.jpg

 

I glued the new wire just like stock.

 

 

2011-12-06%2B20.51.08.jpg

 

New hole on the right side.  The HD428's have a single wire coming out the left side only.  I wanted separate wires.  This is to allow me to convert over to balanced in the future if I wish.

 

2011-12-06%2B21.00.23.jpg

 

The re-assembled headset.

2011-12-06%2B21.50.31.jpg

 

I used a Y-split for now, as I do not have a balanced amp.  I also don't have any cotton wrap or techflex... That will come in the future.

 

After all this mess, what I hear is NOT a fantastic amazing change, but I do hear more presence in the high bass/low mid frequency. 

That MAY be do to being able to hear much higher frequencies more better, and not a boost to low mid at all.  I can hear the sharpness (or transience) of brass and reed woodwind instruments.

 

post #4 of 6

Very nice! 

 

You actually broke open the plastic that covers the membrane... Hmm.

 

Have you tried adding a thin layer of dampening material on the cups? This may make the HD428s more difficult to drive but they make the bass a little more precise/lean, imo. 

 

 

 

post #5 of 6
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Boat View Post

Very nice! 

 

You actually broke open the plastic that covers the membrane... Hmm.

 

Have you tried adding a thin layer of dampening material on the cups? This may make the HD428s more difficult to drive but they make the bass a little more precise/lean, imo. 

 

 

 


You know, that would make these phones much better.   I mean, I just spent another $30 on $80 phones, but thats ok.  

 

You are also correct in saying that the week point in the HD428 is the sloppy bass.  I like the image, I like the signature, and I even like the fact that they seem to do well

with VERY low frequencies.  

 

Would you suggest putting a damping material inside the plastic housing that covers the back of the membrane, or someplace else?  There is not a lot of room either way.

 

post #6 of 6

Well first of all, the more air your headphones get the more bass quantity it gets. The tape at the back of the driver (covering the three holes) actually determines the bass quantity. I don't have HD428s myself but on my HD438s, I find that leaving all three holes uncovered gives you the most bass quantity, at the expense of bass quality. Everything sounds sloppy with all three holes exposed. You can experiment by leaving 0/1/2/3 exposed and find the sound that you like best.

 

For me, (bear in mind I've got the 438s), I added a thin layer of dampening material in the left cup and I left one of the holes exposed on the right cup only. If I expose one hole in each cup, it sounds a little too bassy for my taste. I use these for bass heavy electronic songs or for casual listening though, so I don't mind sloppy/boomy bass but any more than 1 hole exposed is just too much, imho.

 

Secondly, adding a very thin layer of bluetack on inside of the cups (not the back of the driver) seems to have made the bass sound a little tighter. No one else has tried this so I can't really compare results. On the other hand, it might just be placebo effect making me think they sound better... Maybe you can give it a go and tell me how it sounds after? I've been meaning to recable my HD438s as well but I'm clueless abt that. Picking up a soldering iron tmrw ~

 

I also plan to remove the back of the driver housing and then put the whole headphone back together, see how that affects the sound. 

 

Cliff: Add a thin layer of bluetack on the inner surface of the cup and tell me how that goes.

 

:)

 

Forgot to add, different pads make a lot of difference.


Edited by Blue Boat - 12/7/11 at 4:06am
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