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KODA^2 - König's Ortho Dynamic Acrylic Headphones - Page 9

post #121 of 203

Quote:

Originally Posted by lokesen View Post

 

Just a little warning...snip


If you like how they sound, that's what matters! Plus, it sounds like an easy fix if someone finds these too colored. It would be pretty cool if you could find a way to make these "fixes" more modular and less of a DIY kind of thing. You know, like include parts that the user could easily pop in and out quickly and easily to change the sound. Not sure how you could do that, or if it's even possible.

 

Does Tyll have measurements ready to look at?

post #122 of 203
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hans030390 View Post

Quote:


If you like how they sound, that's what matters! Plus, it sounds like an easy fix if someone finds these too colored. It would be pretty cool if you could find a way to make these "fixes" more modular and less of a DIY kind of thing. You know, like include parts that the user could easily pop in and out quickly and easily to change the sound. Not sure how you could do that, or if it's even possible.

 

Does Tyll have measurements ready to look at?



I thought about this and I actually think it could be done - not on this model, but on the KODA^3 if there is ever going to be one.

 

post #123 of 203

It's been a while back since I've been that impressed by looks of HPs...well, there it is again, scandinavian design...

post #124 of 203

Would you be interested in selling the cups only (without veneer, ball joints, pads, etc.), as a "bare bones" type kit?  I think it would be great for those on a budget or those who would like to build and customize their own units.  

post #125 of 203

Quote:

Originally Posted by lokesen View Post

I thought about this and I actually think it could be done - not on this model, but on the KODA^3 if there is ever going to be one.


I think that would be pretty awesome if you could incorporate that into a possible future design! 

 

Now where are those measurements? tongue.gif

 

post #126 of 203

Bass is actually the hardest thing I tried to obtain when modding my T50RP lol, and everybody loves a bit of bass, if you got that out I think it's great.

 

We already have our stock or modded, neutral or colored as we like it (those who can't live without abundance of mids shall content themselves of stock! lol), I believe we're all in for something a bit different and opening our horizon and a taste for something special. Make it as colored and fun sounding as you wish, in the end we will be happy if we manage to get our hands on something exotic and almost unique.

post #127 of 203
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by devouringone3 View Post

Bass is actually the hardest thing I tried to obtain when modding my T50RP lol, and everybody loves a bit of bass, if you got that out I think it's great.

 

We already have our stock or modded, neutral or colored as we like it (those who can't live without abundance of mids shall content themselves of stock! lol), I believe we're all in for something a bit different and opening our horizon and a taste for something special. Make it as colored and fun sounding as you wish, in the end we will be happy if we manage to get our hands on something exotic and almost unique.


There is plenty bass for sure - IMO. We'll have to ask Andrew who is the owner of both the KODA^2 and the original Thunderpants, how they compare in that area. And other areas too. I am pretty sure the Thunderpants is the more neutral choice, but it is just a guess.

 

I also came to the conclusion that a linear frequency response wasn't really the goal for me - and I agree with you, then I could have just kept the T50rp in the first place. But I didn't really like the stock T50rp that much, because it really is a studioheadphone and for me, that means it's a bit boring and fatigueing to my ears. The first reason for me to mod the T50rp was getting more bass, but after doing the first KODA^1 with the solid cups and airtight gaskets, I realised that they suddenly had a very big sound stage and much clarity to them.

 

The big sound stage, combined with clarity, and an emphasized and detailed bass, just make it a special experience to listen to, at least to me. I think the big sound stage, plenty air around the instruments and voices in combination with a nice bass is a pretty rare combination, especially in closed cans. Those qualities normally seem to be present in neutral headphones, where the bassy and colored ones usually is a bit muddy and lack detail at the same time. - this is just my experience and opinion though.

 

I really look forward to read some impressions from others on these cans - could be that I just have strange ears :D 

 

There is one thing I am pretty sure of - If you like the AKG K-701/702, chances are that you will not like KODA^2 at all. They are different for sure.

 

 

 


Edited by lokesen - 1/2/12 at 1:06pm
post #128 of 203
post #129 of 203

Quote:

Originally Posted by logscool View Post

Measurements are up!

http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/FostexT50RPDIYModifiedlokesen.pdf


I wonder what's causing that dip at 200Hz. The dip after 1Khz seems like a common trait for the T50RPs, but I've not seen a dip like that at 200Hz with the modded T50RPs.

 

Lokeson, have you tried experimenting with different damping behind the drivers? I know a lot of people are stuffing the stock T50RP cups with teased cotton balls now. There are some other experiments going on involving other materials as well. The problem might also lie in front of the driver. 

 

post #130 of 203
Thread Starter 

 

The bass port is too big - and that causes the hit in the mids. The KODA^1 has a smaller bass port, and doesn't have the same dip in the mids. So it's just a matter of tuning the port better for the next batch. 

 

I will make a new test set for myself with a 30% smaller bass port, to make the dip a bit smaller in that area. That's just slightly larger than the KODA^1 port.

 

If you put your fingers on the bass port, it's really easy to hear the more mid-oriented sound and slight decrease in the bass - I just have to find the middle ground between the keeping the signature, just with a little smaller dip in the 100 hz area. If I could make the dip half as big, I think it would be a fine balance between the signature and a better balance.

 

Other than that dip - that is obviously a bit too big, I actually think they are doing well enough. 

 

Btw - I purchased the parts for a DIY DB meter to help me finding just the right size for the bass port. But early indications do show that the bass port is causing the dip. I just need to find the right balance now. - And for the three set of KODA^2 already sold - I will share my experience so that you can chance the size yourself if you like to :)

 

Well - Let me explain about the DB meter - it's homemade with two Panasonic WM61a mic's, located in a box with approximately the width of my own head. I just got the parts and I will start constructing in a few days. I will probably post some pic's when finished. 


Edited by lokesen - 1/3/12 at 2:33am
post #131 of 203
Thread Starter 

Double post...


Edited by lokesen - 1/3/12 at 2:33am
post #132 of 203
Thread Starter 

I just got my initial test set up with some cheap condenser microphone - I couldn't wait to make my own test. Because I simply just can't accept that there should be that huge dip in the mids. You really would be able to hear that easily. And I just can't hear that - not at all.

 

Here is my first test with poor equipment:

Frequency test_first run.png

 

Blue is tight seal - or in other words - proper seal
Red is loose seal / not air tight

 

Comparison:

 

Here is Tyll's measurements:

 

Image2.png

 

My test is done with lousy cheap microphone with a wooden board with hot glue around the microphone and some 

freeware software. It is obvious that my mic can't measure tones below much below 75 hz'ish. But this is what I have to work with right now.

 

What do you think of my initial findings?  I am really looking forward to finishing my test rig with proper microphones. I don't have much experience in frequency response testing. 

 

I need some help here with analysing data.


Edited by lokesen - 1/3/12 at 9:01am
post #133 of 203

I am know very little about conducting these tests. However what I can say is that looking at lokesen's graph if you ignore what happens below ~200Hz you will notice that the blue line actually matches up rather well with Tyll's measurements with the main difference being how "zoomed in" the graph is.

 

Both graphs show about ~15-20 dB difference between the peak at ~700Hz and the drop at ~200Hz. Also the rolling of at about 3-5k also shows a lot of similarities.

 

I believe that your graphs simply validate that Tyll insured a good seal before measuring.

post #134 of 203
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by logscool View Post

I am know very little about conducting these tests. However what I can say is that looking at lokesen's graph if you ignore what happens below ~200Hz you will notice that the blue line actually matches up rather well with Tyll's measurements with the main difference being how "zoomed in" the graph is.

 

Both graphs show about ~15-20 dB difference between the peak at ~700Hz and the drop at ~200Hz. Also the rolling of at about 3-5k also shows a lot of similarities.

 

I believe that your graphs simply validate that Tyll insured a good seal before measuring.



My graph doesn't start at 0 (my mistake) - so it is only a 7 db fall and not 20 db.

 

Then again - my equipment is not professional and my experience neither - anyway, I can't wait to get some proper equipment for testing.

 


Edited by lokesen - 1/3/12 at 10:54am
post #135 of 203

lokesen's measurements show a better response in the bass region though... much less drop off... 

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