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Is anyone building the KGSSHV? - Page 7

post #91 of 486

He he, maybe we have found a new future mikhail ;)

post #92 of 486
Here is a pic of what I am trying to do. Waiting for the right size heatsinks. So far it looks like an old piece of test equipment. I can't say it is worth all the effort to hand build a case. I am just hoping it can work.
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post #93 of 486
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post


Yeah and those fans are a stupid idea of epic proportions.  If this is a 500V version then you will have major drift issues as the CCS will never settle down and this is an audio amplifier, it is supposed to get hot. 

 


No probs, I'll drop the fans then. Thanks for the help.

 

Anybody thinking of buying international from SumR, I wouldn't.

 

I was advised shipping by non-priority would take, quote "a few weeks", only to find out after the transformer was sent that it actualy states 4-6 weeks on Canada Posts website, from the time it leaves Canada's shores by SEA eek.gif. I'll say that again, by SEA.

 

Now Auspost has informed me 6-8 weeks from the date it leaves canada's shores.

 


Edited by HDMan - 3/30/12 at 1:54am
post #94 of 486

Seriously looks like fake IXTP01N100D's are going around.

 

I have ixys10m90s parts from a friendly Headfier (supposedly from Future Electronics) and some IXTP01N100D's from a friendly DIYaudio'er, they both look the same in writing style and appearance, shiny plastic housing and typing style are identical.

 

I also got some IXTP01N100D's from Little Diode (now refunded) which look remarkably different in typing style and plastic housing (dull, not shiny), me thinks this might be a fake. I can post pics if anybody needs to see them.

post #95 of 486

who can afford to fake $1 parts?

post #96 of 486
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcx View Post

who can afford to fake $1 parts?



They sell for $12 at Little Diode each. Fakes and a rip off.

post #97 of 486

Just because I'm curious - how much would just the parts for a KGSSHV be? (working amp without enclosure)

post #98 of 486

A lot of variables there.

Quality of the parts used, who you buy them from, shipping costs, etc.

An "economy build" can be done for around $1000 USD. (parts cost)

post #99 of 486

I have all the parts except transformer, minus case would be roughly $800, + $100 for transformer and  $250 for the case, that comes to  about $1200 in all parts + lots and lots of sleepless nights. regular_smile%20.gif

post #100 of 486
I still need wire. Does anyone know what gauge to use? I need Peek M3 screws and that looks like it will be over $100 to get shipped. Anyone have 10-20 they would sell me? I don't really want a volume pot but not sure how easy it is to bypass and not use one for now. I am close to done with the case. Not perfect but it is solid. I am thinking of using some model glue around joints and rivets. Any ideas or opinions are appreciated.

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post #101 of 486
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaycalgary View Post

I still need wire. Does anyone know what gauge to use?


All of the low voltage signal wiring in my HV is 24AWG. The power supply, bias and other high voltage wire is 18AWG Furutech. Obviously anything you use for that needs to be rated to handle 600V+.

 

post #102 of 486

I use 20 gauge teflon because it is rated for the voltage, and i have a bunch of it.

Same as i use on the T2.

post #103 of 486
I found two company's in Canada here that would be better to get the wire from for me. It is hard to find the voltage rating on most wire and that sounds really important with this amp.
Take Five Audio has Neotech hookup wire that is rated for 600v but maybe it needs to be a AC or a DC rating because there is a difference that I forget at the moment.
I found Neotech UPOCC 20 AWG, Teflon Insulation and only $2.58 a foot. This is suitable?

The other store is PartsConneXion ant they have Neotech too but they don't give the voltage. They also have Neotech 20AWG Silver. Bad idea?
They have the Furutech 18AWG and I don't mind buying some great wire for this project. I really don't need that much. Too bad they
don't show voltage rating on other wire. Just running 20 AWG on everything sounds easy enough for me. I really should keep it as simple as possible.

Been looking at there Khozmo Attenuator but even on my 717 it is switched off and I use my volume on Wyred4Sound Dac2. I just have yet to see any
amps like these that don't have a volume. I also plan on running off XLR. I am just taking it slow and learning from the experience.Thanks.
post #104 of 486
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaycalgary View Post

I found two company's in Canada here that would be better to get the wire from for me. It is hard to find the voltage rating on most wire and that sounds really important with this amp.
Take Five Audio has Neotech hookup wire that is rated for 600v but maybe it needs to be a AC or a DC rating because there is a difference that I forget at the moment.
I found Neotech UPOCC 20 AWG, Teflon Insulation and only $2.58 a foot. This is suitable?

 

I wouldn't recommend the Neotech. I tried it with mine and had shorting problems. I ended up with the Furutech Alpha-18 from PcX. In terms of voltage, if the wire is rated for VAC, you can calculate the VDC by multiplying times 1.414. For your signal wiring, you can go with pretty much whatever you like. I went with VH Audio unicrystal silver with their "airlok" foam teflon. Really nice stuff. You could also use Mundorf or Audience OCC Auric wire, both are excellent and PcX carries both.

 

I don't think there's any need to use a volume control if you don't want one... but I think a high quality SA will likely outperform DAC volume controls that are digital domain.
 

 

post #105 of 486
Thanks that is the direction I will go. If I can ask one more thing and I am guessing again but if I leave out the SA do I need to replace it with a couple resisters? I understand I may lose a little but it will never be hard to install one.
Edited by jaycalgary - 4/2/12 at 10:38am
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