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The Monoprice NEW! MP9927 PG 208.. MP8320 (MEP-933)..The $7.11 club.. - Page 235

post #3511 of 4129
Interesting thoughts on the filters. I will try listening without them when I get a chance. They do however do a good job of keeping dust and earwax out of the housing. It would be a nightmare to keep these clean without them

Sent from my Captivate Glide
post #3512 of 4129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom22 View Post

 

my failed custom mold... it fits fine but i used far too much mold but part of it is ripped, occured when i tried taking the 8320s out of the custom ear molds.... alll in all a failed experiment... but i still wanna try again to make it right 

 

but thing is my 8320 fit my ears pretty good heres a picture .. it doesn't stick out or anything like the previous images i see here on this thread

 

 

i use the small eartips from the philips she30s 

 

 

 

i only want to make some custom ears because it makes the headphones seem much more personal and unique to me 

dont give up...   i bought 3 pairs just in case,,   and it took me a while to figure out the best way to mold them,,,   hopefully your next one will be your last..


Edited by jaejw1 - 4/16/13 at 7:48am
post #3513 of 4129

Just got some large Comply tips and put them on my 9927's (the black version of the 8320) and I finally have a good fit and the bass is back. The silicone tips I used would break seal too easy and often - so now that I have them working - I tried to search for "8320 Tape Mod" and couldn't find a thread. Could someone explain what it is, how to do it - and what I should expect? Thanks... I'm listening to some Sublime and they sound great now that they fit!

post #3514 of 4129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivabign View Post

Just got some large Comply tips and put them on my 9927's (the black version of the 8320) and I finally have a good fit and the bass is back. The silicone tips I used would break seal too easy and often - so now that I have them working - I tried to search for "8320 Tape Mod" and couldn't find a thread. Could someone explain what it is, how to do it - and what I should expect? Thanks... I'm listening to some Sublime and they sound great now that they fit!

The tape mod is somewhere in this thread. Basically you put tape over the hole where the tip attaches (under the tip) and it increases your bass. You can poke a hole in the tape if it gets too muddy.

post #3515 of 4129
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaejw1 View Post

dont give up...   i bouth 3 pirs just in case,,   and it took me a while to figure out the best way to mold them,,,   hopefully your next one will be your last.

after you molded them were you able to take out the 8320 out of the earmold

 

i bought a pack of the radian custom ear mold, it seems durable if i use it as ear plugs but after it tore the first time i don't know if i can risk trying to many times the molds costed me $20 for a pack, even online shipping to canada is insane... around 20 anyway... and i heard some of it might be expired too from previous reviews

 

i want to be able to reuse the mold should the 8320s break on me, basically one pair of ear molds (endless 8320s a my disposal) this is my last pair, but if i can figure out how to continually use 1 pair of ear mold for many pairs of 8320 i will take the plunge and spend the 20$

post #3516 of 4129
Quote:
Originally Posted by ender323 View Post

The tape mod is somewhere in this thread. Basically you put tape over the hole where the tip attaches (under the tip) and it increases your bass. You can poke a hole in the tape if it gets too muddy.

personally i use scotch tape and i use a sewing needle to poke a hole. just 1 poke no more 

 

i found that completely sealing the hole the bass gets too muddy and overwhelm ( just to let you know this bumps the SUB bass only not the deep deep bass) i find the 8320s don't extend too far down there ( not a problem) though---> the sound closes a bit 

 

no tape mod you have a more open sound

 

but sealing the hole increase isolation on them which is a huge plus considered that these are so shallowly inserted

 

so the best compromise for me is one small whole with  sewing needle


Edited by Tom22 - 4/15/13 at 8:44pm
post #3517 of 4129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom22 View Post

after you molded them were you able to take out the 8320 out of the earmold

 

i bought a pack of the radian custom ear mold, it seems durable if i use it as ear plugs but after it tore the first time i don't know if i can risk trying to many times the molds costed me $20 for a pack, even online shipping to canada is insane... around 20 anyway... and i heard some of it might be expired too from previous reviews

 

i want to be able to reuse the mold should the 8320s break on me, basically one pair of ear molds (endless 8320s a my disposal) this is my last pair, but if i can figure out how to continually use 1 pair of ear mold for many pairs of 8320 i will take the plunge and spend the 20$

this is what i bought..  i still have a few packs left even after making several molds... http://www.westone.com/store/index.php/professional-supplies/impression-materials/silicone-singles-1756.html

 

and a pack of these to protect my inner ear..  http://www.westone.com/store/index.php/cotton-ear-dams-size-4-mini-1836.html

 

all of my molds im able to remove the earphones from them... except for one i did where i removed the back and completely covered the entire thing with silicone,,, not recommended...

 

my best mold was done using 1/4th of the material in one of the westone packs.   the tip i used was from a cheap double flange that i bought from buyincoins.com..   there was enough material to cover the tip and this allows me to use the tip with other earphones if i want.. 

 

700

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), default quality

post #3518 of 4129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom22 View Post

personally i use scotch tape and i use a sewing needle to poke a hole. just 1 poke no more 

 

i found that completely sealing the hole the bass gets too muddy and overwhelm ( just to let you know this bumps the SUB bass only not the deep deep bass) i find the 8320s don't extend too far down there ( not a problem) though---> the sound closes a bit 

 

no tape mod you have a more open sound

 

but sealing the hole increase isolation on them which is a huge plus considered that these are so shallowly inserted

 

so the best compromise for me is one small whole with  sewing needle

I bought a set of Comply large using the coupon they had for March - when I use that on the Mono - I get a great seal - the bass really comes out to bloom. I think I will try the tape mod, then try a pin hole and see what transpires - these are really fun to mess with. (At least buying 5 pair and getting 30% off, the tips don't cost more than the IEM!)

post #3519 of 4129

 

Got my new soldering iron in today and some cheap navship 28 awg 19-strand spc cables. Decided to test the them out doing a re-cable of the 9927. 

 

Used a Neutrik connector for the 3.5mm TRS. Total cost to do it was about 6$ in materials. I wanted to take video/pictures of the process similar to the front page post but it was late and I was too lazy. 

 

The colors are Red/White. Looks orange in the pictures because the crappy desktop lamp. I call it my "Peppermint Patty" cable. Quad braiding was easier than imagined it would be, but still a little tedious with the cable because it still is a little stiff. Don't have to worry about getting choked to death now. 

 

I honestly couldn't stay for sure if there is a change in the sound since I haven't been listening to these much in the past week. Maybe its placebo, but they do seem to sound a bit cleaner, more clear. The tips on them currently are the Sennheiser double-flange. Good seal and comfortable. 

 

Made some mistakes along the way, learned a bunch in case I want to do it on another pair. Will probably risk trying the cyanoacrylate mod in the future just for kicks. 

post #3520 of 4129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post

 

Got my new soldering iron in today and some cheap navship 28 awg 19-strand spc cables. Decided to test the them out doing a re-cable of the 9927. 

 

Used a Neutrik connector for the 3.5mm TRS. Total cost to do it was about 6$ in materials. I wanted to take video/pictures of the process similar to the front page post but it was late and I was too lazy. 

 

The colors are Red/White. Looks orange in the pictures because the crappy desktop lamp. I call it my "Peppermint Patty" cable. Quad braiding was easier than imagined it would be, but still a little tedious with the cable because it still is a little stiff. Don't have to worry about getting choked to death now. 

 

I honestly couldn't stay for sure if there is a change in the sound since I haven't been listening to these much in the past week. Maybe its placebo, but they do seem to sound a bit cleaner, more clear. The tips on them currently are the Sennheiser double-flange. Good seal and comfortable. 

 

Made some mistakes along the way, learned a bunch in case I want to do it on another pair. Will probably risk trying the cyanoacrylate mod in the future just for kicks. 

 

WOW!  Please do post a video of how you did it and maybe a link to the materials if you do not mind.  I would LOVE to learn how to do something like that!

 

..

post #3521 of 4129

this past saturday i took my son to the greatest place on earth ,,,,,,, Chuck E. Cheeses....    had my molded 8320's in, my ipod classic (eq set to OFF) on and my E11 (eq set to off) providing power all connected by a LOD..  

 

my power level on the amp was set to low and my listening level was between 2 and 3 on the volume knob of the E11,,,,    this isnt very loud,, but im sort of happy that there wasnt a true isolation between me and the outside world. i was still able to listen and enjoy my music and i also aware of my surrounding and the occasional visit by my son to grab tokens or drop off his tickets,,,,

 

my mold does not cover the back of the earphones nor does it cover the pin hole on the other side...  i think i prefer this...   it also keeps me out of hot water while at home..

 

 

i think i will use my set of 9396 as my true isolation earphones they are a lil more fun to listen to with increased bass response, im currently testing them out now with the molded tips and im completely happy isolation is perfect....  ...  the best thing is that my tips are universal  

 

 

 

post #3522 of 4129
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaejw1 View Post

this is what i bought..  i still have a few packs left even after making several molds... http://www.westone.com/store/index.php/professional-supplies/impression-materials/silicone-singles-1756.html

 

and a pack of these to protect my inner ear..  http://www.westone.com/store/index.php/cotton-ear-dams-size-4-mini-1836.html

 

all of my molds im able to remove the earphones from them... except for one i did where i removed the back and completely covered the entire thing with silicone,,, not recommended...

 

my best mold was done using 1/4th of the material in one of the westone packs.   the tip i used was from a cheap double flange that i bought from buyincoins.com..   there was enough material to cover the tip and this allows me to use the tip with other earphones if i want.. 

 

700

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), default quality

sorry i hope i'm not misunderstanding but you molded the it with the DOUBLE FLANGE eartips on the 8320s? the mold went ontop of the silcone tips?

 

i saw your link on regard the double flange on buyincoins a few pages early(probably 10 pages back now) 

 

also i noticed something about the 8320s not sure if anyone pointed it out..

but i don't think its possible to have maximum isolation on them anyway... disregarding the shallow nozzle

 

the part on the "face" of the 8320s where the 3 screws are on have little vents on it that air (sound) can seep in.

 

along with the fact that the nozzle is short and the port hole next to the nozzle, i don't think it would be good for commuting ( too many sounds would seep in)---> thats only if you want total isolation 

 

i also used this video

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmk-y_9exJ8

 

in the video if you watch closely, the nozzle had nothing blocking it, and he just shoved in in the mix, without damaging it ( because i image the compressed air inside the earphones prevented any of the mix from getting in... -- > so no vents= no mix leaking inside

 

but for home use.... oh my thats a completely different story

 

oh and when you said u used 1/4 did you mean 1/4 for BOTH earphones = 1/8 for one and 1/8 for the other

or it was 1/2 a max and you split the half= 1/4 for each?

or 


Edited by Tom22 - 4/16/13 at 11:41am
post #3523 of 4129
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaejw1 View Post

this is what i bought..  i still have a few packs left even after making several molds... http://www.westone.com/store/index.php/professional-supplies/impression-materials/silicone-singles-1756.html

 

and a pack of these to protect my inner ear..  http://www.westone.com/store/index.php/cotton-ear-dams-size-4-mini-1836.html

 

all of my molds im able to remove the earphones from them... except for one i did where i removed the back and completely covered the entire thing with silicone,,, not recommended...

 

my best mold was done using 1/4th of the material in one of the westone packs.   the tip i used was from a cheap double flange that i bought from buyincoins.com..   there was enough material to cover the tip and this allows me to use the tip with other earphones if i want.. 

 

700

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), default quality

thanks for the links btw

but shipping to canada is absurb... its $ 32= 19$ for shipping!!

 

 

also what do the cotton dam do? you just put them inside the earphones when your making the impression so that none of the mix enters and damages the earphones( like my bonehead mistake)

post #3524 of 4129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom22 View Post


also what do the cotton dam do? you just put them inside the earphones when your making the impression so that none of the mix enters and damages the earphones( like my bonehead mistake)

The cotton dams go inside your ear canal before you put the silicone in. The purpose is to protect your ear canal and drum from silicone becoming lodged inside ; That would be very bad.

They also made foam and hardened silicone dams. All dams have a string attached that you leave hanging out of your ear in order to remove them after molding. Again so they don't get lodged in you inner ear canal.
post #3525 of 4129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom22 View Post


also i noticed something about the 8320s not sure if anyone pointed it out..
but i don't think its possible to have maximum isolation on them anyway... disregarding the shallow nozzle

the part on the "face" of the 8320s where the 3 screws are on have little vents on it that air (sound) can seep in.

along with the fact that the nozzle is short and the port hole next to the nozzle, i don't think it would be good for commuting ( too many sounds would seep in)---> thats only if you want total isolation 

i also used this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmk-y_9exJ8

in the video if you watch closely, the nozzle had nothing blocking it, and he just shoved in in the mix, without damaging it ( because i image the compressed air inside the earphones prevented any of the mix from getting in... -- > so no vents= no mix leaking inside

You're right about the vents not being able to provide maximum isolation, but that is actually a good thing. If you were to cover all the vents, the sound would be muddy and not pleasing at all.

The air wouldn't exactly be "compressed". The silicone could easily displace some of the air unless the seal against the silicone was perfect before pressing the nozzle into the silicone.
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