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Help please? I'm perplexed :)

post #1 of 34
Thread Starter 

Hey there, this is my first thread so cut me some slack if I have breached any rules of etiquette biggrin.gif

 

My scenario is as follows: I have a few CDs I've ripped to Apple Lossless, but I'm happy to rip again to WMA Lossless or AIFF? (FLAC seems far to complicated to me, but an explanation of how to do it would be great). I also have some legit songs from iTunes - I converted them to MP3 in iTunes and ditched the AACs (big mistake I know :D ) I like to listen to music:

 

a) on my PC where I can use any player I want - I have about 500GB space left on my HDD for music.

 

b) at work, where we can only use WMP - I have a 500GB external HDD for music.

 

c) on an iPod Nano 1G 4GB, and Video 5G 30GB - space will be an issue so I need to know how to compress, and what to compress to.

 

d) on my phones (I change phones very often as I take unwanted upgrades from family members :P ) - same issue as with iPods, but possibly different file formats required.

 

Can anyone come up with a complete solution for me? I've been researching for days and can't come up with something ideal.

 

I humbly await your expert advice.

 

Perplexed.

 

 

post #2 of 34

What do you mean by a solution? I think you're going to end up doing some legwork yourself whichever way you approach this - files don't transcode themselves.

post #3 of 34
Thread Starter 

Yes, I know that files don't transcode themselves, thank you... It's nice to be welcomed by a patronizing know-it-all.

 

Anyway, I'll make myself a little more clear: How would you guys recommend organizing the music - what format should I rip to, and for each of the sources I listed, what should I transcode to, how should I store it, and what player should I use? My instinct was to rip to ALAC, listen with iTunes on my PC, and convert to WMA Lossless for work, MP3 320 for phone, and stick to lossless but get a much bigger capacity iPod, but thinking about it now, I don't know how to go about it :)

 

Do you think ripping to WMA Lossless in WMP and then importing to iTunes for conversion to ALAC and MP3 would be a better and simpler option? By the way I have tried searching, but I couldn't find anyone in my situation.

 

Merci,

 

Perplexed.

post #4 of 34
Well, how sensitive are your ears? Do you plan to have all your tunes on all your sources? How big is the library anyhow?
post #5 of 34
Thread Starter 

Well, how sensitive are your ears? How big is the library anyhow?

 

I can hear the difference between lossless and mp3 with my Ety's on my iPod/PC, but on my phone it's not an issue as the phone itself is the bottleneck there. As for my library, currently it's tiny (about 2GB) but that's because I'm moving from Spotify (on which I have about 1000 songs. So altogether I'm looking at about 40GB of Apple Lossless.

 

Do you plan to have all your tunes on all your sources?

 

Yes, I do want all my music on all my sources - what do you reckon I should do then?

 

Ripping to WMA Lossless in WMP and then importing to iTunes for conversion to ALAC and MP3 seems like a good idea, but I need to know if I'll retain tags and what-not, and also if it's worth it, as WMA-Lossless appears to be dying away, or am I wrong?

 

An explanation of FLAC and its advantages/drawbacks would be great too :)

 

P.

post #6 of 34

All lossless files sound the same, so only use the file type you know how to make and can use in all your programs.

 

Convert to variable bit-rate MP3 (LAME V0 or V2) for portables.

post #7 of 34

There are all kinds of nasty rumors out there about ripping a redbook CD to ALAC using iTunes on a PC.  I think I would avoid it. 

 

http://www.computeraudiophile.com/content/iTunes-ripping-ALAC-may-have-bug

 

Perhaps you should consider using EAC with AccurateRip.  Either directly or inside one of the many PC-based players that use it.  Why bother with Windows Media Player (except at work where they force you to use it, I guess) ... use one of the major thrid-party programs instead.  You know the list (Media Monkey, FooBar, dbPower Amp ...).  If these are not familiar to you, GIYF.  There are many fine tutorials on EAC available, btw.

 

I rip my archival copy to WAV, then create a FLAC -8 (again, either using FLAC directly or usng one of the major players) to capture and store all the metadata and album art. I like to store the cover art in the music file itself, I usually use the cover from the CD Single if available which is way more fun than staring at the same album cover all the time if you use the directory approach).  MuvUnder Cover is FANTASTIC at this, and a little known program.  And xrecode II (also not well known) NEVER messes up any metadata when making ALACs or making compressed files for your portables.  Neither of those 2 are free, btw, but the authors deserve some money.  FooBar, by way of contrast, loses the embedded album art

 

For some reason, I have often found that up-sampling a 44.1 redbook track to 96, then "decimating" it to 48 for making an ALAC, sounds better on an iPod than anything else.  I think Apple naturally prefers the 48-96-192 world to the 44.1-88.2-176.4 world.  Who knows.

 

Lots of people Rockbox their iPods and then use FLAC for everything.   This won't help you at Work where you can only use WMP -- so take the WAVs there.  WMP will supply its own metadata and album art when you play the files.  Use your lovingly created FLACS (created with one of the major programs) from the EAC-created WAVs on your own PC (with the same major program you chose).

 

Convert to a compressed AAC or uncompressed ALAC for you Apple portable devices.  I would use xrecode II and then load them on the device with XPLAY3 (also not free) and never install iTunes, but what do I know?   Even my wife uses iTunes and won't consider anything else depsite hours of lectures from me, complete with a PowerPoint presentation on the real meaning of the Nyquist folding freqency (don't believe what you read here about that -- you do NOT get a perfect reconstruction of every music frequency from 22.05 down even though you sample at 44.1 -- that's a misunderstanding of reality) and some example Fourier transforms (my bride has a PhD in Math Stat from Princeton).  And she just bought a Mac, so I will now be foobaring alone, just like when I was single.

 

Your phones may require MP3's ... again, any of the major Windows players will make these perfectly.  And if you do it right you can be sure that all the metadata in the FLAC shows up in the MP3.

 

You kept score correctly -- I have a WAV, FLAC Original, FLAC upsampled to 96, ALAC, and MP3 version of every track. So what?  They are all named perfectly and in the right directory.  I back up the reference WAV and the FLAC with the metadata.  Yea I know only the FLAC is really needed.  But it all happens nearly automatically.  3 TB disks are $199 on Ammy.  USB 3 is blazing.  And there is nothing more important to me in my non-work life than my music collection (other than my family of course).

 

Good luck, and enjoy.


Edited by wavoman - 10/22/11 at 3:39pm
post #8 of 34
I'm with both wavoman and Head Injury on this. Use Accurate Rip for the CDs, rip to both FLAC for your home setup and mp3 (I use CBR) for your portables. Once your library grows, you'll have to buy a more storage capacity, but that's pretty cheap.

Good luck.
post #9 of 34
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the comprehensive response Wavoman :)

 

Here is what I think would be a good workflow from reading everyone's views:

 

Rip to .wav, and keep .wav on my external HDD for playing at work as art and tags will still show up in WMP there, even if they were ripped on a different PC - am I correct here?

 

Import the waves to iTunes, which will work its magic and give me ALAC files to play at home, with complete album art and tag data.

 

Buy an enormous iPod 5G and play ALAC on that. Completely off topic, but is it still worth buying a 5G (is the old-school hard drive likely to die on me bearing in mind how old the model is)? Or should I ignore SQ and go for the 6G Classic? :S

 

Convert from those ALAC files to MP3 in iTunes to give me files for my phone.

 

Let me know what you think :)

 

Less Perplexed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #10 of 34

I don't see the point in lossless on a portable. The audible difference is so small, you're not likely to care when you don't have a lossless file to compare, and you're not likely to care either way on the go.

 

There's also no point in storing WAV files. They're nearly twice as big as losslessly compressed files, and contain the same data. They also don't hold tags like other files.

 

Rip to WAV, convert to a lossless compression format of your choice (ALAC for example) and store and listen to those, then use MP3 on any of your portables. If you need something that plays in both iTunes and WMP on different computers, use ALAC and WMA respectively, no need for WAV.

post #11 of 34
Thread Starter 

Genius - exactly what I was after :) Good point about the portable too (although I may stick to lossless anyway on my Classic just because I can :D ).


But how can I convert to WMA Lossless? I suppose I could rip to WMA Lossless and then store that and also convert to ALAC?

post #12 of 34

Since you can use WAV as your lossless files for Windows Media Player, why not just keep the original WAV.  I agree with Head Injury of course that I only need to keep my FLAC -8's, I said that myself, but I keep the WAVs because I am paranoid.  What if the FLAC-eating virus hits, or someone sues FLAC for patent viloation (this happened with .GIF images, so don't laugh).  I have spent hundreds of hours making perfect rips with EAC+AccurateRip, and my WAV backup protects that.  I can always automate getting the metadata again and converting to FLAC -8, but I can never recover if the original rips vanish.  As I have said (now 3 times) I could archive the FLAC -8's, but I made the WAVs with EAC so I just keep them on the external 3 TB drive.  No biggie.  Of couse I only use the FLACs, the ALACS, and the MP3's.

 

If you do not think losselss is great for portables, you have not heard my Vinnie-built iMod with the 5.5-Gen Wolfson DAC and iCube amp, loaded with 48000 lossless ALACs created by decimating 96000 Hi Res files ripped from DVD-A's.  Listening thru vintage button RS-1's, with cups that swivel flat so that the whole rig really is portable and easily arrives with me at my hotel room (the phones are open, so they won't work on a plane, but I mostly drive on biz trips), the SQ rivals (certainly does not equal, but gets close) to both my full Orpheus, and my O2 Mk 1's dirven by a BHSE (two rigs considered among the finest in the world -- and I have done many quick-switch level-matched tests at my home to confirm this).  Switch to MP3's, even 320's, and this no longer holds.  I have Doors, Metallica, Fleetwood Mac etc. tracks that will make you jaw drop -- this has happened at meet after meet.

 

With lesser portable rigs and noisy conditions, of course MP3 is the way to go.  But I spend enough "restless nights in one-night cheap hotels and sawdust restaurants with oyster-shells" to want the finest possible SQ on the road.

post #13 of 34
Thread Starter 

Lastly, and this is the most irrelevant thing I could come up with :P - where do you guys get your music from? It's just so expensive!

 

One idea I have had is to buy all the albums off Amazon, rip them to Wav and WMA Lossless, and then sell them back on Amazon for 10p less :) Or just have a sale if I can't sell them.

post #14 of 34

When you sell a CD, you should destroy all the copies of the music you made.  Otherwise you are cheating the artist, who needs to be paid.  Artists make our lives bearable, and they deserve a share of your wealth.

 

Buy hi-res digital downloads and enjoy.  Problem solved.

 

If you can't afford all the music you want, work more hours or take a second job.  There is no difference between music and a car.  If you cannot afford the car you want, would you steal it?

 

If you no longer want a physical CD but wish to retain your digital copy, destroy the physical CD in an environmentally responsible way (which is not easy to do, but if you look you can find community resources to help you achieve this).

 

Sorry to preach, but you hit a hot button.

 

Music is intellectual property.  Intellectual property is property.  The term for people who take someone's property without paying for it is "thief".

 

I understand "everyone" does this.  That is no excuse.

 

Be the first among your friends to do right, and spread this message.

 

I apologize for the rant.

 

 

 

 

 

post #15 of 34
Thread Starter 

True - I didn't really think of that, I guess I'll just keep the CDs as a collection then.

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