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Grado modders go Magnum - Page 222

post #3316 of 3324
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyrian View Post

Hi, what kind of Glue is used to fix the plastic driver into the wood cup?
Wood glue? Any recommendations ? I would like to use something that would be easy to remove if needed.
Thanks!

 

I use this stuff wrapped around the driver....provides a great snug fit:

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8694k112/=wv1z52

post #3317 of 3324
Quote:
 Originally Posted by kyrian View Post

Hi, what kind of Glue is used to fix the plastic driver into the wood cup?
Wood glue? Any recommendations ? I would like to use something that would be easy to remove if needed.
Thanks!

i used uhu tac patafix for mine.. it works pretty well

post #3318 of 3324
Quote:
Originally Posted by stratocaster View Post
 

It has been a long time since I started this thread. Coming from the Grado modding crowd I took interest in the Magnums, then V4s, since the drivers were freely available, came at an acceptable price, and could be used in all sorts of housings. I then proceeded into the planar world, among others, and sold my Magnums, since I ultimately found them too shouty and lacking comfort.

 

By accident I again took some interest in these types of drivers, doing work on some used SR125i and now Turbulent V5 drivers. I am also using a kind of DIY hybrid GradoBeyer pad, for which I am using some L-cushs (cut to shape)  and Beyerdynamic DT25 pads on top.

 

In addition I have been using my measurement rig (calibrated mic, flat coupler, no compensation) in order to "verify" my mods. Below I am sharing my V5 measurements and mods.

 

 

Stock Turbulent V5 drivers, in a Grado wood cup, open back:

 

 

Finished headphone, black ebony cups with black and white ebony nuance, closed:

 

Cup and driver

 

Driver in rosewood inner sleeve, GradoBeyer pad

 

Measurement of the finished headphone, closed cup, internal damping. Very neutral sounding.

 

Internal damping change, a little less distorion in the mids. Very nice sounding, clean and fast.

wow, that is amazing

can you teach me how do you make those pads??

post #3319 of 3324
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fadhlysb View Post
 

wow, that is amazing

can you teach me how do you make those pads??

 

It's easy: Cut off around 5-7mm from the top of the Grado L-cush and glue the remaining cush on the back of the Beyerdynamic Dt250 pad.

post #3320 of 3324
Quote:
Originally Posted by stratocaster View Post
 

 

It's easy: Cut off around 5-7mm from the top of the Grado L-cush and glue the remaining cush on the back of the Beyerdynamic Dt250 pad.

hmm.. did you use any hard foam board for it? and why cut L cush instead of using S cush?:tongue_smile:

post #3321 of 3324
Thread Starter 

L-cush has different foam density and helps the Beyer pad keep the right distance from the driver! It's JUST 2 thirds of the L-cush glued to the back of the Beyer pad. Did LOTS of experiments (plus measurements), and this is just the right setup.

post #3322 of 3324

ok! thanks a lot man! i will definitely try it!! :biggrin: so you really don't use any hard foam for it like those modders who use the dt770 pads huh..


Edited by fadhlysb - Today at 8:28 am
post #3323 of 3324
Thread Starter 

GradoMagnums have a mid-bass hump and serious bass roll-off, combined with elevated higher frequencies. The reason for this is the foam pads that let too much bass energy pass through. But if you use velour or leather pads, there is simply too much mid bass. The solution is to combine both materials. As a result there will be less of a mid-bass hump and there will be better bass extension (resulting from velour pads AND internal damping, which in effect turns these into semi-open headphones). In addition, if you put a thin layer of felt in front of the driver, you will end up with an astonishingly flat frequency response.

post #3324 of 3324

hmm wouldn't doing the internal damping caused the headphone to be less airy? will it effect the soundstage?

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