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Grado modders go Magnum - Page 204

post #3046 of 3173
Quote:
Originally Posted by Levictus View Post


What measurement did he use for the press fit if I may ask? Can you get a caliper on that? Thanks wink.gif

 

I have a spare Magnum (v. 3.5, actually) but I don't have a caliper.  Since I only have one working driver, I figure I'll hold onto it in the event I ever go deaf in one ear, it might be of value some day.  :eek:

post #3047 of 3173
Just need to pick up some solder and I'll be ready to go...

post #3048 of 3173
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleasbaby View Post
 

Indeed...these were slightly different this time around...

 

1. No ridge for the drivers to sit against inside the cup (easily remedied with a thin strip of foam tape).

2. The holes for the headband gimbals go all the way through the walls, they aren't just indents.

3. The last pair needed foam strips around the edge of the drivers to seat them firmly, this pair fit absolutely perfectly, no need for any foam.

 

Still gorgeous workmanship.

glad to hear this!

 

Last time I ordered a pair of these, it was right around the time you also ordered your last pair, so they were like you described above. Having to use tape to fit them in snug was a bit of a turn off. Also, I'm glad to hear the holes for the headband go all the way through as opposed to the other way.

 

Tempting!.....:ph34r:

post #3049 of 3173
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormsdriver View Post
 

glad to hear this!

 

Last time I ordered a pair of these, it was right around the time you also ordered your last pair, so they were like you described above. Having to use tape to fit them in snug was a bit of a turn off. Also, I'm glad to hear the holes for the headband go all the way through as opposed to the other way.

 

Tempting!.....:ph34r:

 

Actually, when cutting cups, they have to sometimes be slightly overcut with respect to the opening for the driver.  This would be because:

 

1) Wood can shrink and expand.  If it were cut "just right" and shipped to a very dry climate, the wood could tighten a bit and make the hole for the driver a bit too tight.

 

2) For those who don't buy a new pair of Magnums to use, they would be using a liberated Grado driver.  In doing that process, there is a slight bit of plastic around the outer rim of the driver.  This can make the liberated driver a bit of a tighter fit.

 

Normally, most of the cups that I've been lucky to get had gaps that were unruly to work with.  Most of the times, I'd just need to wrap a single layer of electrical tape around the perimeter of the driver, then they'd fit nicely into the cups.

 

Also, if the drivers fit "just right" and you had a very dry climate, then the wooden cups could potentially crack because the wood would tighten up a bit more on the drivers ... but not have any more space to contract to, so the wood might develop some splits or cracks.

post #3050 of 3173

^ha! I should've mentioned FOAM tape to be more specific.:smile:

 

Last time around, I had the Turbulent labs Vibro cups, and a pair of Cabillas' cups. While Cabillas' cup had a slightly snugger fit, it still needed foam tape to hold them in there.  I'd be perfectly happy with thinner tape such as electric tape.

 

EDIT: Thick foam tape:D 


Edited by wormsdriver - 11/21/13 at 10:20pm
post #3051 of 3173
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormsdriver View Post
 

^ha! I should've mentioned FOAM tape to be more specific.:smile:

 

Last time around, I had the Turbulent labs Vibro cups, and a pair of Cabillas' cups. While Cabillas' cup had a slightly snugger fit, it still needed foam tape to hold them in there.  I'd be perfectly happy with thinner tape such as electric tape.

 

EDIT: Thick foam tape:D 


*chuckle* I remember the tape for the Vibro cups...I still have a large roll of it actually. It comes in rather handy. For the latest Magnum build I actually cut thin strips of it to form a seat for the driver to sit against, and some ultra-thin strips of it to hold my grills in place.

 

Here's hoping the cups don't split. I live in the Inland Empire in So Cal which can be a rather dry place. The drivers fit exactly though, no forcing to get them in, I think they should be fine. The wood has been sealed rather nicely too...I guess time will tell.

 

When I had a local guy turn some cups for me, and I asked for an exact fit he said he'd rather not because of expansion and contraction...


Edited by fleasbaby - 11/22/13 at 5:42am
post #3052 of 3173

i one time used this tape with good success:

 

http://www.wurth.co.uk/technical-chemicals/sticky-tapes/sealing-tapes/self-vulcanising-shrink-tape-19mm

 

not this one i am posting an english language link of to give you an idea but a similar german TESA one. it's a self vulvanising adhesive rubber tape so easy to cut into shape and to apply and then very easy to press the driver into the wood cup. after some time the tape gets harder like rubber automatically!


Edited by GermanGuy - 11/23/13 at 3:48am
post #3053 of 3173

Made new limba cups finally. Super simple, 1 1/8th inch, no sealants stains or oils. Press fit in drivers, no tape or foam, got them in there very very snug. I believe tape just defeats the point of having wood cups. I like what im hearing so far compared to my half cocobolo half limba cups i had/have. I think its due to the depth alone, less sharpness, absolutely no resonance. Very open sounding, guitars still sound amazing. I really wish there was a way to get the soundstage to open up without sacrificing something else. But, thats an inherent "grado" quality, at least lower models from what ive read. I think ill go up to 1 1/4 inch for the "good looking" pair ill be making next. As is there isnt enough play in gimbal pivot at 1 1/8th. But the bloc of limba i have is that depth so it had to do. This was more of a quicky so i could get back to woodies. Couldnt even listen to them in the plastic, just to much resonance. Now that my he400 is gone i think ill get used to the magnums in this state until my he4 arrives.  


Edited by hemipowered007 - 11/24/13 at 7:34pm
post #3054 of 3173
post #3055 of 3173

and tonight, i got my pioneer sx 727 back setup. What i difference from just the ipod touch, but i already knew that was going to happen. The 727 has an overkill amount of power, im only at about 9 oclock on the dial, but the dynamics, the warmth it adds, Im looking to get a maverick tubemagic d2 to feed it serving 2 duties. Dac and tube pre amp to the 727. I have yet to hear this "tube sound", and hear the d2 is very noticeable in that aspect. I think ill have some fun comparing the magnum to the he4 on this setup. I just dont know if anything can get guitars to sound as good, Ill keep these just because of how they portray them, maybe not exact, but they just sound alive. Now the rest of the spectrum, a little lacking in that "full" feeling. I believe planars have ruined me in that respect, you go from the magnum to a planar and its just so much more full. But man, i think the magnum is truly growing on me now that i have it in its correct housing. I dont know if ill even bother making new cups, these sound perfect to my ears.

post #3056 of 3173
Nice build Hemi, like the cups. My wood guy just emailed me, the black limba boards he has that were used as crate material are exactly 1 1/8" thick so perfect for cups! Finally have a source for black limba!
post #3057 of 3173
Pads are a bit tricky at that depth, I might glue mine on when I make my nice version of these
post #3058 of 3173

I highly suggest people to just create a simple 1 1/4 inch cup, limba whatever. Press fit tight, which is tricky and wont last without sealant or a finish. BUT, if youre handy, just make some quick cups, took me 2 hours maybe. Bare wood, press fit drivers, wide open, I have fallen back in love with my magnums after a long love/dislike relationship. I will be ordering some 1 1/4 to tinker with at some point in the future. But for now im going to stick with these unfinished bad boys...not a sight to behold but when theyre on my ears i do not care in the slightest.

post #3059 of 3173

Does anyone know of a method of removing the grado drivers without destroying the plastic housing they're glued into at the factory?

 

I can easily cut out the drivers but I'd like to save the factory housing.  If I don't like the woodies I'd like to return to my present mod which I really like..

post #3060 of 3173
It requires a vice and some patience. I did it on mine. Andhonstly, if you want my Sr 80i housings I'd be willing to give then to ya
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