Grado modders go Magnum - Page 145

...you could try removing using everything except the arches on the LCD band...ie: both have those delightful metal "antennae"...

Unfortunately, I sold (very recently) the LCD2's and they are no longer with me.

I read somewhere that the headband on the lcd is too small, it's designed for the big lcd cups

^Yeah, I am almost sure it will not work with Grado's.

sucksss.

 

I want to hear more V5 impressions. 

Here are more impressions: I listen to them every day because they are awesome. Later today the k702 65th anniversary will be here and i will compare. I decided that I like the V5 best with my more euphonic tube. I'm thrilled with this because the V5s extra bass makes the tube more listenable than the v4.
Edited by joeq70 - 12/11/12 at 8:04am

I bought MIDrange's V5 drivers, and I'm waiting for my CLASSIC VIBRO MAHOGANY CUPS from Turbulent labs which should be here by the end of the week I hope.

Also, I was gonna try putting my V5 drivers in my Sennheiser HD580 just for the hell.o'it, but the drivers did not fit

Another quick update. Short but sweet: I like the V5 better than the AKG K702 65th Anniversary.

in the event this is still a modding thread........I recently mounted some old grado drivers in cups that had previously been made to snuggly fit mag drivers. The grado's were a touch bigger and so the fit was SUPER tight. Initially, I just left it as is and listened for a couple weeks. The sound was quite good, but had a couple minor issues, some grado color which is to be expected, and also a slightly odd boxiness or chestiness. Fast forward and I finally got around to breaking out the tools and widening the driver opening so that the drivers are putting less pressure on the cup. Basically, the driver is now transferring vibration but not so tight that it is killing the cup from accepting it. When the driver is too tight, the cup is deadened somewhat. The sound to my ears is more natural, has some extra air and no longer bothers because of the chestiness. I really feel the driver mounting is a variable to consider when making cups. And so the corollary is that too loose of a driver or one that is wrapped with thick foam is likely also to negatively affect driver performance as well. To those making cups, I really suggest you play with this variable and while I understand it's easier just to oversize the opening to accomodate the slight variance in drivers and then take up that slack with foam, it would be just as easy really to size the opening so it is 'just ever so slightly' big to the point where half of the drivers would press right in and others would require a bit of painters tape wrapped around to make them snug. A small amount of tape doesn't seem to kill anything ime. And i've not had drivers falling out over time, or wood cracking etc. Or if one feels it necessary to make the opening larger than needed, instead of using foam, maybe wrap the driver with some other more vibration transferring material like some 1/64" wood laminate or maybe some super thin metal such as some old feeler gauge material etc......just some stuff to chew on for those trying to make magnums reference class. over and out.

That's interesting...I took apart some 225i recently, and while fully liberating the drivers, I noticed that Grado's inner sleeves are tight as anything, with very precise, tight fitting. It also looked like (but I couldn't be sure) the glue was not the standard hot glue...can't be too sure though. That said, for the SR series Grados, the drivers are in sleeves which are then glued into the cups. Your situation involved just cups.

 

Since you fixed yours by mildly increasing the driver seat's size, why is a wider seat and foam a problem? Isn't that simply doing what you did?
 

missed the point fleas.....it's in there if you read close.....the original fit was SUPER tight. now the fit is snug tight......and regarding grado inner sleeves. That's a different thing. I'm talking just the driver mounting in a a one-piece wood cup ala rs series......plastic cups- I wouldn't be concerned about the fit since the cup is the wrong material alltogether, there's no saving that

 

 

just to explain in case it's not as commonsense to people who don't work with wood....when the driver is SUPER tight, the wood deadens.literally. It is putting so much pressure on the wood that it changes it's properties. If you were to tap the cup with a tight fitting driver vs a snug or loose fit driver, the sound would be different.....Now this is not important because of the tight fit, as no one makes cups that have a super tight (too tight) fit. grado just uses glue and others use either just right or loose fit. The point is that one can hear affects from different driver fittings and so it's a variable to keep in mind when making cups. I found this out long ago, but am trying to fine tune and get the word out, not just that it is a variable, but what fit would be optimal or at least increase the chance's of maximizing driver performance. Of course the meaningfullness of driver fit presupposes the beliefs that A. the cup matters and B that you'd want it to be 'alive'. If the answer for a cup maker to either of those questions is No, then driver fit is unimportant.

Edited by thelostMIDrange - 12/12/12 at 1:03pm

I figured the cups you were talking about were one-piece, a-la the RS series. I fully agree, plastic is not the optimal material for cups. I just thought that making the driver seat snug-tight using foam instead of sizing was a different way of skinning a cat.

 

I can see how the foam would interfere though, so point taken.

right, not to rag on plastic. It is what it is. My assumption during this whole thread and regarding the mag driver is that we are trying to approach grado's finest attempts and/or at least improve on the sr/rs series.

Edited by thelostMIDrange - 12/12/12 at 2:25pm

Someone gave me this piece of wood saying it was Mahogany but it doesn't look like it to me.

Can someone spot this wood for me please?