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BUNCH of ?'s before I go out and buy

post #1 of 45
10/19/11 at 11:14am
Thread Starter 

So, I am planning to get a bunch of stuff for my second DIY project: Interconnects and a possible recable.

However, I have a bunch of questions I need answered before I go out and buy all my gear.

Any help is appreciated, thank you!

 

Equipment

1. For soldering, I am between the Weller WLC100, Weller SP23LK, and the Stahl Tools SSVT. Do you recommend any of these, or recommend any other irons? Trying to keep it below $50 here

2. I am also planning to buy a "Helping Hand" since my first recable was kind of a pain without a third arm. I checked amazon, but there wasn't really one helping hand that stood out. Any recommendations in this area, or are they mostly the same? Don't want one that topples over easy though lol

3. 1/4" nylon or 3/16" nylon for Mogami W2893 and braided wires?

4. Colored nylon multifilament? I noticed that no one in the DIY Cable thread used it...was just wondering if it exists or not lol

5. Do you recommend adhesive lined heatshrink, or should I just go with the regular? Probably going to get it from this guy, but he sells in 4 feet increments so didn't want to get the wrong one xD

6. Does 1/2" 3:1 shrink work in most cases? I'm mostly going to be working with Mogami W2893 and maybe some Canare L-4E5C.

7. What do you use to strip the wires, because most of the wire strippers I found on amazon only strip up to 22 AWG =/

 

Other

8. I noticed that some people in the DIY Cable thread used 4 wires for a 3.5mm -> 3.5mm interconnect...You only need three to make the interconnect right? Why would you use 4 wires when all it does is use more material and possibly make the cable less pliable?

9. I also noticed that some people used techflex and others nylon in their interconnects...Is there a reason why they did this when techflex supposedly makes the cable stiff and much more microphonic? (other than looks, they do make the cable look nice haha)

10. Is there any special braid for short interconnects (< 6in) or do you just use the normal litz/round braid?

11. How do you cut just the outer rubber jacket on cables like the Mogami W2893?

12. Is it ok to mix different AWG wires in an interconnect?

 

Again, any help is much appreciated! Thank you for your help~

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post #2 of 45
10/19/11 at 11:49am

3/16th for the mogami 

 

I have the Stahl SSVT - no worries so far. 

 

1/4 heatshrink for the most part - 1/2 is really big

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post #3 of 45
10/19/11 at 1:01pm

Check out the CSI-Station A1 soldering station (on sale for $29.99), reviews say it does the job.

Sold by web-tronics.

I bought one about a year ago, but have not gotten around to using it.

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post #4 of 45
10/20/11 at 8:25am
Thread Starter 

hm, also looking into this one since I heard that 25 watts is the minimum and 60 watts is the maximum I should get...

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post #5 of 45
10/20/11 at 5:01pm

My crusade continues...

 

Avoid orange handle Weller Irons, they are not temperature controlled, meaning while it should be at 700 degrees, the temperature swing may make it way too hot, you could end up melting wire insulation, damage connectors, or blow up sensitive parts on a board.  If you go with weller get one with a blue handle, which indicates that it is temperature controlled.  

 

Edit//in addition:

 

I just looked closer at your link, and they have that iron rated at 900 degrees F.  That's way too hot, you want something that opperates around 700 degrees F.


Edited by samsquanch - 10/20/11 at 5:03pm
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post #6 of 45
10/20/11 at 5:22pm
Thread Starter 

Quote:

Originally Posted by samsquanch View Post

My crusade continues...

 

Avoid orange handle Weller Irons, they are not temperature controlled, meaning while it should be at 700 degrees, the temperature swing may make it way too hot, you could end up melting wire insulation, damage connectors, or blow up sensitive parts on a board.  If you go with weller get one with a blue handle, which indicates that it is temperature controlled.  

 

Edit//in addition:

 

I just looked closer at your link, and they have that iron rated at 900 degrees F.  That's way too hot, you want something that opperates around 700 degrees F.


oh, but the 25 watt orange handle Weller gets up to 750 degrees, and I read somewhere in a thread that 25 watt is the minimum you should get...doesn't the WLC100 have temperature control? (well, some sort of control knob)

 

So you would suggest this one over the orange handle ones? They both seem to have the same watts, but what exactly is the difference? Is it really $20 better?

 


Edited by Kagelou - 10/20/11 at 5:34pm
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post #7 of 45
10/20/11 at 5:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kagelou View Post

Quote:

oh, but the 25 watt orange handle Weller gets up to 750 degrees, and I read somewhere in a thread that 25 watt is the minimum you should get...doesn't the WLC100 have temperature control? (well, some sort of control knob)

 



"gets up to 750", should be stated as, "hoovers around 750 with an unknown temperature swing."  Same thing with the WLC100, you may set the temperature to 700, and you may wind up with 650 to 750, there's no way to be certain, it's not a regulated iron.

 

Weller's own site states, "Temperature accuracy:  Not measured."

 

It may seem a bit anal, but you'll curse that orange handle like crazy if you damage something really expensive.

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post #8 of 45
10/20/11 at 5:50pm
Thread Starter 

Quote:

Originally Posted by samsquanch View Post

"gets up to 750", should be stated as, "hoovers around 750 with an unknown temperature swing."  Same thing with the WLC100, you may set the temperature to 700, and you may wind up with 650 to 750, there's no way to be certain, it's not a regulated iron.

 

Weller's own site states, "Temperature accuracy:  Not measured."

 

It may seem a bit anal, but you'll curse that orange handle like crazy if you damage something really expensive.


hm I see, so the orange handle 25 watt's temperature is usually 750 +or- 100 while the blue handle 25 watt is usually steady at 750?

I definetely do not want any accidents on any of my projects, so I wouldn't mind getting the blue 25 watt if it really does stay at a steady temperature

oh and by temperature controlled, do you mean like a knob on a soldering station that shows the digital temperature or a solder gun that has a steady temperature?

This is the thread I saw about 60 watts being the limit for headphone recables. Just noticed that you're in it haha

 

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post #9 of 45
10/20/11 at 6:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kagelou View Post

Quote:

hm I see, so the orange handle 25 watt's temperature is usually 750 +or- 100 while the blue handle 25 watt is usually steady at 750?

I definetely do not want any accidents on any of my projects, so I wouldn't mind getting the blue 25 watt if it really does stay at a steady temperature

oh and by temperature controlled, do you mean like a knob on a soldering station that shows the digital temperature or a solder gun that has a steady temperature?

This is the thread I saw about 60 watts being the limit for headphone recables. Just noticed that you're in it haha

 



I don't have an exact number for temperature swing, weller doesn't even give a number (as referenced above), and I've personally never taken steps to measure their temperature.  That said, I've used them before, sometimes solder would melt real slow, sometimes extremely fast, with many different states in between.  Melted some insulation, and destroyed an XLR.  I don't trust them, and I don't let people use them in my racks.

 

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post #10 of 45
10/20/11 at 6:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kagelou View Post

This is the thread I saw about 60 watts being the limit for headphone recables. Just noticed that you're in it haha

 



Oh drunk advice giving!  I was somehow oddly coherent, go me!

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post #11 of 45
10/20/11 at 6:34pm
Thread Starter 

ok, so it seems I'm now between the blue handle 25 watt and 35 watt. I'm assuming I would also have to get a ST7 tip since the ST3 seems to be like a flat head screwdriver.

Also, does it matter what kind of solder I use? Any recommendations on that?

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post #12 of 45
10/20/11 at 8:02pm

I like chisel tips when I'm soldering cables, and conical when I'm doing board work.  It wouldn't be bad to have both, but if you had to go with one, I'd pick the conical.

 

I like 60/40 since that's what I've used since I started, I know how it flows, and have never had an issue with it.  There's also 63/37 (eutectic) which has a lower melting point.  Both are Tin/Lead mixes.

 

Then there are silver solders, no lead, rohs compliant, and all that jazz.  Similar melt point to 60/40.

 

If you've never worked with either three, or just want to play around, you could get a small roll or tube of each to try out.


Edited by samsquanch - 10/20/11 at 8:11pm
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post #13 of 45
10/20/11 at 8:33pm
Thread Starter 

Yea for my first recable, I think I used a conical and found it was easy to get the tip where I wanted it to be

For solder, would this work? Seems to be 60/40, which people recommend

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post #14 of 45
10/20/11 at 8:38pm

A scalpel is the most versatile tool for wire stripping, it's not the quickest, but it's the last one I'd give up. There's nothing better for co-ax or mains cable.

 

Third hands are overrated. Wind the solder into a little cobra and offer up the workpiece and iron. Learn to hold 3 or 4 things and manoeuvre them at the same time.

 

Wellers are OK but I like an iron that has plenty of reserve power and leaves me to control it. I have a no-name one that claims to be temperature controlled but in reality is just variable power. Components are a lot more robust now than they used to be, it's rare to kill one with a soldering iron, the biggest danger is lifting a pad. Gas irons are good, but not for continuous all-day running.

 

A hot-air gun (deWalt paint stripper) and a toaster oven are pretty good to have, but you can do some things on an electric hotplate or skillet.

 

w

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post #15 of 45
10/20/11 at 9:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kagelou View Post

Yea for my first recable, I think I used a conical and found it was easy to get the tip where I wanted it to be

For solder, would this work? Seems to be 60/40, which people recommend


It should do you just fine.

 


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by wakibaki View Post

Wellers are OK but I like an iron that has plenty of reserve power and leaves me to control it. I have a no-name one that claims to be temperature controlled but in reality is just variable power. Components are a lot more robust now than they used to be, it's rare to kill one with a soldering iron, the biggest danger is lifting a pad. Gas irons are good, but not for continuous all-day running.

 

 

 

 

 


I've never noticed a weller to be short on heat, if you're having a problem keeping the solder wet while soldering a joint, then you're using the wrong wattage iron.
 

100+ pin chips are still pretty sensitive, but your statement is pretty accurate, although, you can release the magic smoke from a cap if you over heat it, it takes some effort, but it can be done.

 

By gas iron, are you talking about a butane style, or Nitrogen, like this Hakko:  http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?PID=2406&Page=1
I'm not a huge fan of butane irons, but they are great in a pinch.  As for Nitrogen, I really want to try one sometime, it gives me the nerd shivers.
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