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Balanced Inputs for Likes of PIMETA Amplifier

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 

 

Can anyone direct me to some good information on how to create balanced inputs for the likes of a PIMETA?  I've seen that Tangent recommends a Texas Instruments INA121 chip.  But as I am very new to this (I have only so far built one cmoy), I still need much hand-holding (or learning, as it were).  

 

I am using this practical experience as a means to learn electronics.  But I've only just gotten my feet wet. 

 

Please note that I have no current interest in balanced outputs.  

 

And by the way--almost everything everybody on this site is doing is -10dBv.  The PIMETA I seek to build (with balanced inputs) will interface with equipment operating at +4dBm (pro audio equipment).  Will this be okay with the PIMETA?  (Yeah--I know--as a last resort, I could just turn down the output of the device feeding it).

 

Thanks,

Grant

post #2 of 14

http://www.jensen-transformers.com/datashts/10kbd.pdf

 

May be the easiest solution but a pair of them will be a little spendy.

post #3 of 14
Thread Starter 

yeah.  I looked at that earlier today.  

 

I'm more tempted to build something into the circuit, though, to save space, gain the experience, gain the knowlege, and hopefully save money too.

 

Thanks, MisterX.

 

-grant

post #4 of 14

You may wish to consider Twisted Pear Audio's Ventus headphone amp which has balanced inputs and single ended outputs. If you needed volume control on the amp, then this would need 4-gang attenuator (pot/stepped/etc) which can be pricey.

 

Or could use their Ballsie balanced to single ended converter into any single ended amp input. This would also mean that you could throw just a 2-gang attenuator between the ballsie and the amp, which will save you bucks and give you a much greater choice of attenuators.

 

I'm by no means suggesting you have to use TPA stuff, just they were the name that sprung to mind when thinking diy and balanced - as basically all of their stuff is balanced.

 

 

Also you're mistaken about the levels of consumer stuff being -10dBV. This is some standard that specifies this, but manufacturers of hifi gear don't pay any attention to it. The most common level of modern consumer hifi sources is ~2Vrms which is higher than pro levels.

post #5 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterX View Post

http://www.jensen-transformers.com/datashts/10kbd.pdf

 

May be the easiest solution but a pair of them will be a little spendy.


Rather less spendy if you use a pair of CineMag CMLI-15/15B's.

 

http://cinemag.biz/line_input/CMLI-15-15B.pdf

 

se

 

 

post #6 of 14

Is the schematic linked what you're referring to when you say "Tangent recommends a Texas Instruments INA121 chip"?

 

 

http://tangentsoft.net/audio/tpm/misc/tpm11-sch.pdf

 

 

post #7 of 14
Thread Starter 


DingoSmuggler brings up a great point that leads me to a question.  Assuming I design the "unbalancing circuit" into the PIMETA or other headphone amp, could I then use the potentiometer after unbalancing the signal, but before the input to the "stock/standard" unbalanced PIMETA?  

 

I also wasn't aware of Twisted Pear.  I just took a quick glance and will look further soon.  Interesting.  How is the sound quality compared to PIMETAs and such?

 

I am surprised to hear you say that about operating levels.  I am just pedantically quoting what I've heard for years and years.  But I certainly do see much weaker signals when I input consumer gear into pro audio inputs.  I have empirically seen it. But it's rare to go the other way--outputting pro gear into consumer gear inputs.  Maybe I'll try it soon for fun to see if it clips.  But anyway, we're probably both right--some is "truly" -10db and some is higher.

 

Steve/MisterX, How big do such transformers tend to be?  I sadly have no idea about their size.

 

Thanks.

 

Grant

post #8 of 14
Thread Starter 

MisterX,

 

I think I did see that schematic awhile back as well as somewhere else seeing that he mentioned it in something he typed.  I copied and pasted the information into a file about a month ago so that I'd remember it and now don't remember exactly where I read it.  It was either on this site, or at his site.  But I think seeing that schematic now answers my previous question about the potentiometer. 

 

By the way, the V+ and V- in that schematic are to be input from the DC power supply, right?  Would I just supply voltage to those inputs running parallel with/from that which supplies voltage to the op amp?

 

Thanks,

grant


Edited by epithet - 10/19/11 at 12:20am
post #9 of 14
Thread Starter 

Found it:

 

 

 

Quote:
Balanced receiver: If your source uses balanced audio (XLR plugs) you could put a couple of balanced receivers here, like the INA121, and run their output to the PIMETA’s INPUTS connector.

From: http://tangentsoft.net/audio/pimeta2/tweaks.html

post #10 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by epithet View Post

DingoSmuggler brings up a great point that leads me to a question.  Assuming I design the "unbalancing circuit" into the PIMETA or other headphone amp, could I then use the potentiometer after unbalancing the signal, but before the input to the "stock/standard" unbalanced PIMETA?  

 

I also wasn't aware of Twisted Pear.  I just took a quick glance and will look further soon.  Interesting.  How is the sound quality compared to PIMETAs and such?

 

I am surprised to hear you say that about operating levels.  I am just pedantically quoting what I've heard for years and years.  But I certainly do see much weaker signals when I input consumer gear into pro audio inputs.  I have empirically seen it. But it's rare to go the other way--outputting pro gear into consumer gear inputs.  Maybe I'll try it soon for fun to see if it clips.  But anyway, we're probably both right--some is "truly" -10db and some is higher.

 

Steve/MisterX, How big do such transformers tend to be?  I sadly have no idea about their size.

 

Thanks.

 

Grant



99.995% of all studio gear operates as you describe - balanced cables, convert balanced to single ended as soon as it enters the box, do all "stuff" single ended. In the case of studio gear at signal level, the SE signal is then converted back to balanced to avoid noise pickup on its trip to the next box. Dont worry about that in an amp. 

 

Balanced outputs only matter on power amps with minimal global feedback, and in signal level outputs/inputs. Power amp circuits with lots of global feedback dont benefit from it as much as simpler stuff. Dont worry about it. 

 

Will the amp clip... I doubt it. The pot is before the first gain stage which makes the input voltage basically meaningless, unlike some newer designs. I'd be more concerned that the amp will have too much gain. Make sure that your chosen op-amp is stable at unity gain. This is actually a perfect application for a 10K:600ohm transformer, if you use a transformer for balanced-SE conversion. 

 

The cinemag transformers mentioned above are fairly small. 2 could just about fit in the plastic canister 35mm film comes in. Exact dimensions are on the cinemag website. Cinemag, and a few other people make 10K:600ohm transformers in a similar case size.


Edited by nikongod - 10/19/11 at 6:59am
post #11 of 14
Thread Starter 

 

 

Quote:
Balanced outputs only matter on power amps with minimal global feedback, and in signal level outputs/inputs. Power amp circuits with lots of global feedback dont benefit from it as much as simpler stuff. Dont worry about it. 

I'm not.  That's one reason that in the original post I said I'm not interested in balanced output.

 

 

That's a good point about not needing to worry about signals at  +4dBm since it will be going into the potentiometer.  But then I thought, it might be hitting the likes of an INA121 first.  But that device, being designed for balanced input, surely can handle  +4dBm signals.
 
If I go the transformer route, do I simply do this:
 
[output device]----->-------[transformer]----->----[potentiometer]---->----[PIMETA circuit]
 
That is, does anything other than hookup wire go just before or just after the transformer?
 
Thanks, nikongod.
 
grant

 

 


Edited by epithet - 10/19/11 at 10:38am
post #12 of 14


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by epithet View Post

I am surprised to hear you say that about operating levels.  I am just pedantically quoting what I've heard for years and years.  But I certainly do see much weaker signals when I input consumer gear into pro audio inputs.  I have empirically seen it. But it's rare to go the other way--outputting pro gear into consumer gear inputs.  Maybe I'll try it soon for fun to see if it clips.  But anyway, we're probably both right--some is "truly" -10db and some is higher.

 

The -10 and +4 values you quote are for 'Line' level I/O, that is, inputs and outputs that are specifically marked as 'Line In' or 'Line Out'. These normally have an output level which is unaffected by the source device's volume control. The 'standard' (not very well adhered to) for volume-controlled outputs is 2v rms max. I think that's a 'Red Book' recommendation.

 

The -10 is dBV. The +4 is dBu. These are obviously not directly comparable, 0dBV is one milliwatt in 1k (1v rms), 0dBu is 1mW in 600R (0.7746v rms). This is designed to prevent audio professionals (objectivists) from communicating with consumer audiophiles (subjectivists) and vice versa.

 

w

 

Oh, dBm's are used by radio amateurs and such, we don't want any of THAT here...


Edited by wakibaki - 10/19/11 at 10:48am
post #13 of 14
Thread Starter 

Thanks.  I never remember which one is the V and which one is the u, so I googled it to try to not look erroneous in my post, copied and pasted it in, and it had an m.  What's with that?  But yeah, we've been talking about input into the headphone amp and thus, of line level this whole time.  Thanks for that information.

post #14 of 14

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by epithet View Post

I'm not.  That's one reason that in the original post I said I'm not interested in balanced output.

 


:facepalm: Thats what I get for skimming. 

 

Regarding the transformer:

You got most of it. You will probably need to add something though.

Depending on what value of pot you have and which transformers you get you will want a resistor in parallel with the WHOLE pot, so that the load on the secondary of the transformer is within design tolerances. 

As an example, with a 50Kohm pot, and the cinemag CMLI-15/15b transformers you will need a 22Kohm resistor in parallel with the pot to get a ~15Kohm load for the transformer.  

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