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Headphone Amp/DAC for around 100$

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 

Hello, i'm currently looking for a decent DAC/amp to plug into my laptop.

I've found that my laptop soundcard makes screeching noises, and my Creative X-Fi external card (http://www.head-fi.org/products/creative-labs-sb1090-usb-sound-blaster-x-fi-surround-5-1-audio-system) has static in the right channel whenever i'm using a wireless network (Weird?).

 

So basically, i'm looking for a dac that i can connect through USB (unless there's something significantly better, is there?).

I'd like to be able to plug my headphones straight into it, but it would be nice if i can keep my stereo system plugged in, too (less important).

 

My headphones are Shure SRH840s, if that matters. The sound should be as neutral as possible, too.

My budget is $100, but i might be able to go over a bit if it's worth it.

 

Any tips? Specific models or just features i should look into?

Thanks.

post #2 of 7

Always look for the following in a DAC:

 

Low Total Harmonic Distortion ( THD % ):  You want .005% at worst case and 120dB best case

 

Wide frequency range ( Hz ):  You want something that goes from at least 20Hz -20kHz and 5Hz - 48kHz is better

 

High Sample Rate ( kHz ):  You want something that does at least 44.1kHz ( usually 48kHz ) and 192kHz is better


Always look for the following in an Amp:

 

Low output impedance ( Ohms ):  You want something 5 Ohms or below or match your headphone impedance but not more than 150 Ohms

 

Wide frequency range ( Hz ):  You want something that goes at least 20Hz - 20kHz with 2Hz to 100kHz preferred

 

Output power ( Watts ):  You want something that outputs at least 120mW and up to 1W is preferred ( constant voltage source )

 

Low Total Harmonic Distortion ( THD% ):  You want .005% at worst case and 120dB is best case


Keep in mind your budget is going to limit these specs and a portable amp is not going to always meet or exceed these specs.  I personally use the Bithead which I really like.  It is small, has a decent DAC, and the amp is nice too.  I have had it for years so I know it is built really well.  It runs $149 and is worth every penny.

 

I think the FiiO E7 is a nice device as well, but some have had failure problems within the first few months of operation.  Both Amp/DAC combos will work fine for you, just go with the one you think has the best reviews and better specs.

 

Bithead:

http://www.headphone.com/headphone-amps/headroom-total-bithead.php

 

FiiO E7:

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E7-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003E6K1VK

post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 

Thank you very much for all those tips!

And i'll look into both those models :)

post #4 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by NA Blur View Post

Always look for the following in a DAC:

 

Low Total Harmonic Distortion ( THD % ):  You want .005% at worst case and 120dB best case

 

Wide frequency range ( Hz ):  You want something that goes from at least 20Hz -20kHz and 5Hz - 48kHz is better

 

High Sample Rate ( kHz ):  You want something that does at least 44.1kHz ( usually 48kHz ) and 192kHz is better


Always look for the following in an Amp:

 

Low output impedance ( Ohms ):  You want something 5 Ohms or below or match your headphone impedance but not more than 150 Ohms

 

Wide frequency range ( Hz ):  You want something that goes at least 20Hz - 20kHz with 2Hz to 100kHz preferred

 

Output power ( Watts ):  You want something that outputs at least 120mW and up to 1W is preferred ( constant voltage source )

 

Low Total Harmonic Distortion ( THD% ):  You want .005% at worst case and 120dB is best case

 

Some of this isn't great information.

 

0.005% THD is very conservative. You only need less than 0.05%, but the lower the better.

 

5-48kHz isn't better, because you can't hear that high or that low. What's much more important than frequency range is frequency variation (the +/- number often added at the end of the frequency range). Look for something like +/- 0.2 over 20Hz-20kHz, with 0.1 being better.

 

192kHz isn't better. 192kHz digital audio actually causes problems. 44.1kHz is just as good, and better in some cases. Most DACs will publish 192kHz if they support it, but you shouldn't use that setting. Chances are the files are in 44.1kHz anyway.

 

Not more than 150 ohms? I'd say not more than 10 ohms. 150 ohms is enough to color every headphone in production. The rule is you want an output impedance equal to or less than your headphone's impedance divided by 8. You SHOULD look for something with 1-2 ohm output impedance regardless.

 

Watts isn't always a good way to judge amp power, because it varies greatly with impedance. Voltage is perhaps more important. Use Tyll's data on Inner Fidelity to determine the voltage required to get your headphones to 90dB, then multiply it by 10 to be safe. If the manufacturer only publishes power output in watts, post it here (and the load it was measured with, like 32 ohms or whatever) and I'll help you figure out the voltage.

post #5 of 7

U should consider the fiio e10 too.

post #6 of 7
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the extra details :)

The Fiio E10 is looking really tempting, i'm currently going through it's thread looking for specs (They don't seem to have them all on their website yet).

post #7 of 7
Thread Starter 

In my research, i stumbled upon Creative's E-MU 0204 (http://www.creative.com/emu/products/product.aspx?category=610&pid=20347).

 

Being able to record through it would be really useful for me, but would i be better off with this than the Fiio E10 (with playback quality through headphones being a priority)?

I'm also slightly nervous buying from Creative again, although this is a bit higher end as far as i can tell.

 

EDIT: And though the other specs seem good to me, the output impedance is 22ohms.


Edited by andrewberge - 10/16/11 at 2:17pm
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