[Impression] FiiO E10 - Page 72

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seekky 

Nvm,The clicking issue is back to me..

But i notice that the problem only exist on my desktop.

With my Alienware M11x R2 laptop, it has no clicking at all.

 

WEIRD

Good news =). This problem is in your PC, ha ha. I checked several DACs on my old laptop and they were all with clicking (new drivers, Ploytec USB ASIO, another OS, etc. don't help). Just bought a new laptop to solve this problem. But until now I have no idea what is causing the problem: some slower laptops work well with USB DACs, that is really weird.

With this setup, no problem.

details in my signature

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seekky 

 

With this setup, no problem.

details in my signature

What a beautiful setup!

Quote:

Originally Posted by feiao 

 

What a beautiful setup!

actually i posted on fiio weibo event last night 

Just purchased a E10 from b&h for $52, which i think is a killer price, because the E10 is composed of the same kind of electronics parts as other head amp that are triple the price (I got DT 880 250 ohms for Christmas, so i'm quite new to headphones)! Lately, everywhere i looked everyone was saying to buy O2 + ODAC combo (this thing cost like $280). I'll try the E10 first and see if i'm happy with it. I'm still not believing that a $300 electronic piece would greatly improve the output sound. I remember going to an electronic shop, where i could listen to a set of speakers with different amplifier. The guy was trying to convince me that the sound coming out from the $2000 (vs the $1000) amplifier was way better, but actually, i couldn't even tell the difference. 

Anyway, my concern is if the E10 output will be enough for the 250 ohms of the DT 880?

Unfortunately my E10 has developed issues. It's been a faithful servant for about a year now (manufactured Nov. 16 2011), and now the headphone jack is incredibly loose and the volume pot crackles when changing the volume. I'm really doubting this headphone jack can last much longer. It's been a year and a month since I bought it, so seller support is a no no. Think I can get help from Fiio for an exchange? I might as well give it a shot before I replace the headphone jack myself. Just wondering if other people have tried getting help directly from Fiio for the headphone jack issue.

Quote:

Originally Posted by seiferoth10 

Unfortunately my E10 has developed issues. It's been a faithful servant for about a year now (manufactured Nov. 16 2011), and now the headphone jack is incredibly loose and the volume pot crackles when changing the volume. I'm really doubting this headphone jack can last much longer. It's been a year and a month since I bought it, so seller support is a no no. Think I can get help from Fiio for an exchange? I might as well give it a shot before I replace the headphone jack myself. Just wondering if other people have tried getting help directly from Fiio for the headphone jack issue.

Is not volume crackles caused by not using it that much? Always happens on old stereo amplifier I buy. Just need to move and clean it.

Well, after a few days of using it constantly I haven't experienced the cracking issues. I guess mine is the second revision, without the better quality headphone jack (it actually moves when I plug or unplug something). I don't think it will need any fixing if I just go with this route: plug in a neutral connector and leave it there, FOREVER. I'm starting to love these things...so useful.

Anyway, I really like this little thing, even when the amp section is not the best part of the package. Tomorrow I'll borrow a few small desktop amps and see how it behaves with them. I tried using the line out for a moment and I noticed that the sound is quite different to that of the HJ (specially with full sized headphones. IEMs reproduce a more comparable signature).

Okay, here's a summary of my interaction with Fiio customer service:

I explained my situation to them, stating that the seller in the US refused to accept my RMA (which is reasonable, seeing as they only offered 30 days, and I've had the unit for 1 year 1 month). Responses were very prompt (3 emails, all responded in less than 12 hours), in understandable English. They offered to repair my E10 despite it being 1 month past the manufacturer's warranty. I asked about the repair service and the possibility of sending the unit to a US location to get it repaired. Unfortunately a US location was a no go, and the only location I could send it to was in Guangzhou, China. As you can imagine, the cost of freight to China from US was so incredible that I could straight up buy two new E10 units instead, so I had to decline.

Still, their customer service was very prompt and courteous, overall a positive experience (even though I didn't get my E10 repaired!). I'll just go the short extension route so that I don't have to mess with the jack anymore. 

so i think I've found a solution to the clicking noises that some people are experiencing. If you don't know what they are, from what I understand, it is like a shut off function that when no sound is coming out of the e10, it shuts off the signal, causing a slight popping or clicking sound, then when the signal is resumed, there is a slight delay, which is quite annoying. You can hear this the most when the volume on the e10 is all of the way up and when you are doing something where the sound is constantly interrupted (if you play minecraft walking around usually is the most obvious example of this, the sound effect created with walking always makes this problem super obvious). I installed a new motherboard and so i was playing with the settings for the e10 and noticed that when the default format of the sample rate (under the advanced tab in the e10 interface properties) is set to 16 bit instead of 24 bit, the clicking noise reduced significantly. It seems like the 16 bit leaves a longer period of silence before the shut off function kicks in. This might just be a performance thing that may only be a fix on my computer, but if you are having the same issue, give it a try, I think its worth the drop in sound quality (you can always change it back when listening to music).

Okay, I made a small interconnect to leave in my E10 to help prevent further issues. It was pretty fun for my first DIY project. The only annoying part was trying to insert the small clump of wires into the small holes of the Neutrik connector... 6 times. 

I used the black metal gold contact Neutrik connectors for both ends, and cannibalized a Monoprice extension cable for the cable. Total cost was ~$5 for the connectors, and ~$3 for solder, I had the rest of the necessary tools laying around.

And a side note, whoever said to just play with the volume pot to fix the crackling was right on. I played with it for a little bit and the crackling cleared up.

I need a DAC for my laptop because my on board audio jack needs replacement.
My phones are only 32 ohm though.
Do you think I'd need the e10's amp? If I don't need an amp, the crackling,popping, distortion problems people are having makes me just want to play it safe with a more reliable, DAC only device.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mortimerhobbs 

I need a DAC for my laptop because my on board audio jack needs replacement.
My phones are only 32 ohm though.
Do you think I'd need the e10's amp? If I don't need an amp, the crackling,popping, distortion problems people are having makes me just want to play it safe with a more reliable, DAC only device.

That depends on your music files. If your stuff is 16 bit, then you don't "need" the amp portion as long as you run the DAC at 24bit mode. Then you can control via windows slider without sacrificing audio quality, up to a point. Someone in the modi threads mention anything above 25% is ok going from 16bit audio into 24bit DAC. The e10 can be used as a DAC only too if you use the line-out in back. That's what I use for work. e10 >> objective2 >> HPs. I'm upgrading to a e17 so if you're looking to buy a e10... pm me. 

Quote:

Originally Posted by PDOT 

Mod.

 

Elna Silmic 2 + Wima FKP-2. 4.7UF was used Panasonic BP. It sounds much better now.

Does this mod sound good? I have disassembled some electronics and yielded some caps and stuff. How could I mod this thing? Anyone any idea or how to?

I have caps ranging from very low to very high. And A lot of component which I don't know what it is 

I have some 100 uF caps. I have them in 16V and 50V. What is better? Might it be better to use 120uF caps? Or would that damadge the e10?

What are those green things? I can't see to what it is connected.