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Skullcandy Aviator Dampening

post #1 of 45
Thread Starter 

So I have a pair of Skullcandy Aviators and I'd like to properly dampen them. The plastic cups come off the headphones easily so no worries about damaging the headphones. So what materials do I need in order to properly dampen these headphones? Has anyone attempted this?

post #2 of 45

try blutack that stuff is like magic or dynamat if you feel like spending more

post #3 of 45
Thread Starter 

Now how do I properly do this?

post #4 of 45
Thread Starter 

Is there a difference between Blutak or Scotch or Elmers?

post #5 of 45
Thread Starter 

Anyone going to help me? I got some Dynamat from a friend. how should I do this?

post #6 of 45

I don't have a pair of aviators, but If they're like most headphone start by peeling off the pads carefully and check for/remove screws.

post #7 of 45
Thread Starter 

oh no. the backs are hella easy to get off. I'm talking about placement of Dynamat and blutak

post #8 of 45

My general schtick is to mass load and vibration damp the baffle plate, then acoustically damp the cup with felts or foams. How you do the latter depends on whether the baffle or cup has vents.

post #9 of 45

Just put a thin circle of blutack (1mm thick) on the cup behind where the driver is.


Foam won't do much to damp headphones because the wavelengths are long, and the distance between the driver and the cup isn't. Also if you put too much in you will effectively make your driver enclosure smaller which will make the bass boomy and lack extension.

post #10 of 45

I have found foams/felts make a very strong difference, especially in the highs where the wavelengths are indeed close to the size of the cups. You get a reduction in the treble peaks and control how much reflects back towards the ear (I don't know if the Aviator baffle has vents on the front, but some of that reflection comes through the driver as well).

post #11 of 45
Thread Starter 

well yes the Aviators have baffle vents. I've plugged them with blutak but they sounded horrible. So I would place the Dynamat on the baffle but leave the vents open. Then fill the rest with cottom fiber? I have a sub that is full of a white fiber. I don't plan on used the sub since I'm not a bass head.

post #12 of 45

Yes, leave the baffle vents open. Dynamat on the baffle ear-side should be fine, and if you wanted to go a step further you could mass load the rear side of the baffle with plasticine. Experiment with fiber and felts in the cup. The denser felts should reduce treble reflections, but too much can leave things sounding flat and lifeless. Loose fibre can increase the apparent volume of the cup and should enhance bass response. Too much fibre or felt (the latter especially) will reduce cup volume though, so don't overdo it.

post #13 of 45
Thread Starter 

I've put some pasticine on the inside. I didn't put a huge amount, about 1mm thick and i already like the sound. It's not clearer. I don't like overbearing cymbals or highs. But I also hate a whumping bass because it gives me a headache. I suppose I prefer a nice warm tone where the highest sound good but don't feel like needles. And I definately want all of the bass notes articulate but i hate a whump whump. I guess thats why the Aviators suit me because of the nice bass roll off. 


So what configurations cut the edgyness of the highs but don't bring bass in? I have cotton from a sub. I don't think I have foam or felt.

post #14 of 45

Any type of fabric in front of the driver should attenuate the highs a bit. If you don't have any foams or felts... maybe just cut up an old sock or rag. 

post #15 of 45
Thread Starter 

Alright. Is the goal to get a driver housing that doesn't vibrate? as in the outer cups don't vibrate and the baffle doesn't either. Just the driver itself? What is mass loading?

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