I've been using ibasso's portable D4 dac amp combo for almost 2 years now. I've been very happy with it's dual wm8740 dacs, however It no longer works. I am looking to go full-size for my next purchase. What are some desktop headphone amp & dac combinations that would sound better than my portable D4 and be close to a $500 price range? It'd be nice to hear what tubes sound like and GULP am I wishing too much by hoping the new unit to be manufactured in the U.S.?
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Edited on 12/9/11 | Contribute to this Article
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Making the transition from portable to full-size
- sennheiserhd485
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I've been using ibasso's portable D4 dac amp combo for almost 2 years now. I've been very happy with it's dual wm8740 dacs, however It no longer works. I am looking to go full-size for my next purchase. What are some desktop headphone amp & dac combinations that would sound better than my portable D4 and be close to a $500 price range? It'd be nice to hear what tubes sound like and GULP am I wishing too much by hoping the new unit to be manufactured in the U.S.?
Take a look at the Bottlehead Crack. The experienced members here recommend it often.
It's a tube amp that you build yourself. Bottlehead lists the build as beginner, so you should be able to build it quite easily.
A Bottlehead Crack with the Speedball upgrade is around $300. You could definitely spend $200 more in upgrades for it.
Here is a list of tube amps that have been reviewed by one of our members:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/402585/review-summary-a-ranking-of-32-tube-and-tube-hybrid-headphone-amps
The Bottlehead Crack looks great, but what DAC should be paired with it? How about the dacmagic?
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Make a new thread and ask that question. I don't want to recommend anything, because I am not entirely sure.
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You might also consider their new Smack, which is transformer-coupled, so it'll drive low impedance headphones. I think it's just under $500.
Sorry, I can't recommend a DAC, either. But if you want to build an amp, why not build a DAC, too? There are several out there.
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The Bottlehead Crack is a fine amp and even better with the Speedball.
You might also consider their new Smack, which is transformer-coupled, so it'll drive low impedance headphones. I think it's just under $500.
Sorry, I can't recommend a DAC, either. But if you want to build an amp, why not build a DAC, too? There are several out there.
Erik,
I know that your memory of these two amps are probably vague, but how does the Lunchbox II compare with the Crack? A member is willing to sell me a Lunchbox II.
I will probably be using the HD600s. I am trying to figure out if the Lunchbox II would be too warm sounding with the HD600.
I don't even know what the sound signature of the Crack is.
If any other members have any experience with the Crack/Lunchbox II sound signature, please tell me.
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I can't offer anything specific, but I recall enjoying both.
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Do you think that the Schiit Lyr is a good deal? It is around $450, and it has gotten favorable reviews.
I don't know if there is anything better in that price range or not.
I know that the HD600s need over 500mW to open up, but I can't ever tell how many mW an amp is putting out. It never seems to be in the specs.
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Think of it like a light bulb. You can put a 60W bulb on a 120V, 20A circuit in your house. That can develop over a couple kW of power. But the lightbulb only draws 60W off the line.
Headphones do the same. You can hook one up to a 500W amp, but if you're only drawing 200mW of power, the other 499.8W mostly turns into waste heat and a higher temperature in your room.
The Lyr claims 6W into 32 Ohms, so I think a lot of that power would be wasted on the HD-600.
Also, more power does not equal more quality. That's a common marketing myth. Generally, more power causes more distortion. If you don't need a large amount of power, why not use something with more refinement?
Also, I'm generally skeptical of hybrids. Tubes are high voltage devices. Chips are low voltage. The Lyr can run the 6922, which takes a maximum of 220V and the datasheet says it'll run class A at 100V. Chips usually run about 12V-24V. If you want to run both, you should probably have two separate power supplies, one for each. But power supplies are expensive and where manufacturers cut costs since only a few really understand them. So instead of a high voltage tube supply, they use the low power supply to light the filaments and pass the signal through the tubes while leaving 99% of the amplification to solid state. In other words, the tube isn't really necessary. It's just there because people want to think they're buying a tube amp. It lights up, sounds good (I am in no way arguing that solid state sounds bad - I like it quite well), and people are happy because they're "running" tubes.
I don't know if the Lyr is like that. I haven't heard one and know little about it.
But some hybrids are bogus. They'll list a bunch of electrically incompatible tubes as "compatible" with the amp. How can that be? If you want to run electrically different tubes in an amp, you usually have to change the resistors and capacitors inside to different values. It would be complicated and expensive to design an amp that could detect a different tube, determine what it is, and then adjust itself. It's fair to say that probably isn't happening. A few amps that accept multiple tubes have switches so you can can change internal values for a different tube. If you don't throw the switch, then it doesn't work or can be damaged.
Anyhow, what's happening is that these hybrids light the filament and pass just enough through the tubes to color the sound. The tubes are not being fed the voltage they need to run as they were designed to. The manufacturers are just tacking on a tube because tubes sell.
My take is to run either straight tubes or straight solid state. Run tubes as they were designed to with a proper high voltage supply. Either that or run a clean solid state design on low power. Solid state done right sounds great. But be careful with the hybrids. Some are just solid state amps with a tube tacked on and a much higher price.
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First, I'm not sure the HD-600 can pull 500mW without blowing your ears out.
Think of it like a light bulb. You can put a 60W bulb on a 120V, 20A circuit in your house. That can develop over a couple kW of power. But the lightbulb only draws 60W off the line.
Headphones do the same. You can hook one up to a 500W amp, but if you're only drawing 200mW of power, the other 499.8W mostly turns into waste heat and a higher temperature in your room.
The Lyr claims 6W into 32 Ohms, so I think a lot of that power would be wasted on the HD-600.
Also, more power does not equal more quality. That's a common marketing myth. Generally, more power causes more distortion. If you don't need a large amount of power, why not use something with more refinement?
Also, I'm generally skeptical of hybrids. Tubes are high voltage devices. Chips are low voltage. The Lyr can run the 6922, which takes a maximum of 220V and the datasheet says it'll run class A at 100V. Chips usually run about 12V-24V. If you want to run both, you should probably have two separate power supplies, one for each. But power supplies are expensive and where manufacturers cut costs since only a few really understand them. So instead of a high voltage tube supply, they use the low power supply to light the filaments and pass the signal through the tubes while leaving 99% of the amplification to solid state. In other words, the tube isn't really necessary. It's just there because people want to think they're buying a tube amp. It lights up, sounds good (I am in no way arguing that solid state sounds bad - I like it quite well), and people are happy because they're "running" tubes.
I don't know if the Lyr is like that. I haven't heard one and know little about it.
But some hybrids are bogus. They'll list a bunch of electrically incompatible tubes as "compatible" with the amp. How can that be? If you want to run electrically different tubes in an amp, you usually have to change the resistors and capacitors inside to different values. It would be complicated and expensive to design an amp that could detect a different tube, determine what it is, and then adjust itself. It's fair to say that probably isn't happening. A few amps that accept multiple tubes have switches so you can can change internal values for a different tube. If you don't throw the switch, then it doesn't work or can be damaged.
Anyhow, what's happening is that these hybrids light the filament and pass just enough through the tubes to color the sound. The tubes are not being fed the voltage they need to run as they were designed to. The manufacturers are just tacking on a tube because tubes sell.
My take is to run either straight tubes or straight solid state. Run tubes as they were designed to with a proper high voltage supply. Either that or run a clean solid state design on low power. Solid state done right sounds great. But be careful with the hybrids. Some are just solid state amps with a tube tacked on and a much higher price.
I read one of your previous thread posts that states 500+ mW for the HD600 to "open up".
Is the Sheer Audio Dynalo going to be the best for me? I do like tubes, but I don't know if the cheap ones will be able to sound as good as a Dynalo.
I'm just not sure which gain to use with the HD600. 1x, 3x, or 11x?
I prefer sound to the looks of the tubes.
Edited by sennheiserhd485 - 9/11/11 at 9:21pm
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