Has anyone tried to recable their LCD-2 by going directly into the housing and bypassing the connector? I would have to remove the male end of the connector to get an opening into the housing. Just wondering if that's doable.
Mike
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Has anyone tried to recable their LCD-2 by going directly into the housing and bypassing the connector? I would have to remove the male end of the connector to get an opening into the housing. Just wondering if that's doable.
Mike
i've been told the male ends are screwed, and glued in so getting them out may be difficult/risky... why pray tell would you want to recable this way in the first place?
I'm having a hard time finding a quality female mini-XLR with sufficient opening diameter to accept the cable I have in mind, hence considering the possibility of going directly into the housing. I would not do it myself.. I know a guy who is a wizard with mechanical and electrical things and could probably figure it out. I just got an email from the Audeze tech which suggests it CAN be removed but he doesn't elaborate.
Mike
you must have a pretty honkin big cable in mind ;-)
mind sharing more details.. i just recabled mine, so the topic is fun for me.
The Neutrik mini-XLR has a 0.175 " opening and that's the largest I can find. That's about 1/6". The guy doing the recable for me says that's not quite enough. I don't think 1/6" is a honking big cable myself. How did you do it?
my cable is pretty thin.. probably thinner than yours, but really you dont need to be limited to the little hole in the strain releif. you could bore that hole out, or even chop off a signifigant amount of the strain releif all together.
For example on my cable i terminate to a male mini xlr so that i can switch ends.
I tore out the entire strain releif and have right around a 1/4" worth of cable coming out of it.

Try the Switchcraft TA4FLX, which has a 1/4" opening.
se
Just curious, who was this! I don't remember! He recabled the inners with Silver Dragon v3 right? Just interested because I'm thinking of doing this to my near-future lcd-2.
That would be sufficient, but I thought it had a 0.170" opening based on the data on this page:
http://shop.pacrad.com/switchcraft-ta4flx.html
That page is probably wrong.
Not only is this idea doable I have a pair of LCD-2 that are hard wired direct to the tabs inside and only using the stock cable bypassing the conections as I removed them. Do they sound better?
Boy do they It is very hard to decribe how much better. There is really no comparision even with the stock cable when wired direct I dont believe there is any up grade cable that would come close in fact when these are wired direct there is almost no other headphone that would come close. There is quite a diffrence and one that I think is worth it. Way Way better. If you thought these headphones sounded good or live with the direct wiring they sound breath taking. Once this is done though the cable is fixed and can not be changed. I really dont think you would care they are that good. No way I would go back to the way it was.

Not only is this idea doable I have a pair of LCD-2 that are hard wired direct to the tabs inside and only using the stock cable bypassing the conections as I removed them. Do they sound better?
Boy do they It is very hard to decribe how much better. There is really no comparision even with the stock cable when wired direct I dont believe there is any up grade cable that would come close in fact when these are wired direct there is almost no other headphone that would come close. There is quite a diffrence and one that I think is worth it. Way Way better. If you thought these headphones sounded good or live with the direct wiring they sound breath taking. Once this is done though the cable is fixed and can not be changed. I really dont think you would care they are that good. No way I would go back to the way it was.
Were you able to physically remove the male connector from where it is embedded in the wood housing?
Yes I took the metal connector out with a pair or pliers and replaced it with a wooden plug with a hole in it. I then ran the cable through the hole and soldered the wire ends to the metal tabes inside one postive and one negative. The most easy headphones I have ever rewired and the best sounding one I have ever done.