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Question about amps for the Stax SR-009 - Page 3

post #31 of 756
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

 

 

Well that all may be true, but the fact of the matter is it has happened and I am sure it will happen again. Never said it happened on a KG amp, now did I.However  now that you mention it, there are owners that have posted about how hot a BHSE does get. Or maybe you are right about everything and the world is all wrong.

 

Can you post a link from Stax that has the spects on the SRM-T2.

 

Don't forget you are not on that other forum, your on Head-Fi. This is a civilized forum not a "mean spirited" forum.

Stop doing what you seem to do best, slander and name calling. Its not cute or funny, its just childish.

 

 


 

 


You really have no idea what you are talking about, point me to a case where a pot has seized up due to heat.  I've worked on more amps than I care to recall and seen open carbon pots having movement issues due to dirt and grime but to even suggest that a pot has stopped working due to heat is just...  Goes to show you've no idea what is even inside one of these. 

 

So what, people think burn-in is real and that cables make a life changing difference, doesn't mean it has any basis in reality.  Regardless of what some manufacturers claim there is no way to have ample current reserves and to run an amp deep into Class A without dissipating a lot of excess heat.  What you do with that heat is the main issue as the lifetime of the electronics is cut in half by every 10°C.  This is not counting the capacitors which are far worse off when heated even close to their limits.  Factor in how much heat the BHSE generates and other amps that dissipate the same and it runs cool and will last the next 15-20 years without needing any service.  Does it run hotter than some little toy chipamp?  Yes but it also doesn't draw nearly as much power from the wall. 

 

I'm well aware that this is Head-fi, the crappy interface gives it away and the sheer stupidity of the posts.  Posts like yours are the reason why nobody takes anything on HF seriously and why there is no meaningful discussion here. 

 

post #32 of 756

sillysally every pot out there has a spec sheet made by the manufacturer that tells you the operating temperature.  The pots used in the BHSE are rated much higher than the BHSE's temperature will ever reach.  This is a fact and is why you're catching (deserved) flak.

post #33 of 756


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post

For under 1500$ the SRM-727 is best choice out there.  Better just leave it as it is (i.e not modify it) as the softer top end works with the 009.  


Wow, now this is worthy information! Would you as far to go you prefer the stock 727 amp to your other amps at end for the 009 because it matches more your preferences (tonal balance closer to the omega 2)?

 

post #34 of 756
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnaud View Post


 


Wow, now this is worthy information! Would you as far to go you prefer the stock 727 amp to your other amps at end for the 009 because it matches more your preferences (tonal balance closer to the omega 2)?

 



After his last post, I am afraid that we may never hear from Spritzer again on this website! I asked a similar question than yours for which I still hope to get answer... popcorn.gif

post #35 of 756
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnaud View Post


 


Wow, now this is worthy information! Would you as far to go you prefer the stock 727 amp to your other amps at end for the 009 because it matches more your preferences (tonal balance closer to the omega 2)?

 


The best fit for these ears is my KGSS since it gives just the right amount of warmth to take the edge of the 009.  Now you can't go out and buy a KGSS so the 727 would be the closest match but as we've gone over before, it does have issues.  What I'd do is try the 727 unmodded and see if there is anything missing from the top end.  If so, then try the mod as it can always be reversed. 

 

What I've been looking into is finding a design topology which would suit the 009 for these brightness sensitive ears.  I quickly dismissed the fully AC-coupled tube amps since the loss is just too much in all those caps.  It's a shame to destroy that superior resolution just to tame the slightly hot top end.  What I think may work are the old SS amps with AC coupled output stage but the rest is all DC coupled.  SRM-1 Mk1 and SRA-10S/12S both fit the bill but they are so old that they need to be fully rebuilt.  I've done so to both amps but just not enough time to do some testing.  frown.gif

 

post #36 of 756
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post
Does it run hotter than some little toy chipamp?  Yes but it also doesn't draw nearly as much power from the wall. 

 

IIRC the BHSE draws about 200W? Or was it the T2...
 

 

post #37 of 756

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amarphael View Post

 

IIRC the BHSE draws about 200W? Or was it the T2...

 


If you read the thread you would find the answer to your question.

 

@ Spritzer - I know you have said that you are not a fan of equalization, but it seems to me that it would be much simpler to just equalize the treble on the SR009 down a bit rather than chasing the amp that will happen to do that for you. You would also avoid any compromises in those amps like coupling capacitors.
 

 

post #38 of 756
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post
 

 

This is very good news. drool.gif
 

 

post #39 of 756
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post


The best fit for these ears is my KGSS since it gives just the right amount of warmth to take the edge of the 009.  Now you can't go out and buy a KGSS so the 727 would be the closest match but as we've gone over before, it does have issues.  What I'd do is try the 727 unmodded and see if there is anything missing from the top end.  If so, then try the mod as it can always be reversed. 

 



Which doesn't mean, I assume, that the KGSSHV or the BHSE with the 007 wouldn't still outperform by a wide margin the 009 with the 727, right?

post #40 of 756
Quote:
Originally Posted by bcg27 View Post

Quote:


If you read the thread you would find the answer to your question.

 

 

OK, So the BHSE should be a bit less than 200W but not much... What i meant is why how come does it draw less power than a chipamp if we're already in speaker amp territory?

 

 

post #41 of 756
Quote:
Originally Posted by n3rdling View Post

sillysally every pot out there has a spec sheet made by the manufacturer that tells you the operating temperature.  The pots used in the BHSE are rated much higher than the BHSE's temperature will ever reach.  This is a fact and is why you're catching (deserved) flak.


I confirmed with the datasheet, the Alps RK50 is spec'ed for up to a 70C (158F) temperature.  The BHSE reaches about 40C (104F).  Which is about 25F rise over the ambient temperature when I have measured it.  

 

I also think it's really funny that Alps offers to build the RK50 for automotive applications.

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Reply
post #42 of 756

If I remember correctly, the brightness “problem” with the 009 and the BHSE becomes for most people an issue, when it is one, only at higher volume, past 12 (am I right?). Which means that someone who, for instance, listen to the 007 with the Stax 323 only very rarely at higher volume than 12 shouldn't experience any excessive brightness with the 009 and the BHSE (or the KGSSHV for that matter). Am I getting this right or excessive brightness -- for the few who experience it -- remains an issue even at low volume with the two aforementioned amps?


Edited by verwandlung - 1/17/12 at 11:12pm
post #43 of 756
Quote:
Originally Posted by justin w. View Post


I confirmed with the datasheet, the Alps RK50 is spec'ed for up to a 70C (158F) temperature.  The BHSE reaches about 40C (104F).  Which is about 25F rise over the ambient temperature when I have measured it.  

 

I also think it's really funny that Alps offers to build the RK50 for automotive applications.



Yes that is correct and is why I took the Alps RK50 option when I put a deposit on the BHSE.

All I was ever saying is that the Alps RK50 is a safe bet with a amp that does run hot.

The only reason why I pulled out of the BHSE was because of what others are reporting about the BHSE/009 combo. Maybe true maybe not, but to take a chance on a 11K+ rig didn't seem to be a safe bet.

 

My system is based on Binaural type of recordings and not just for 2Ch but for MCH (5.1/7.1) HQ sound track from Blu Ray movies, duplicating AIX's sound studio's high end audio equipment and room acoustics through headphones.

 

I am sorry if I bore some folks with what they consider to be pointless posts, but in my case not being a amp builder I must take into consideration what others say and post what I have read or experienced. But imo what is pointless is to ridicule someone that is trying to improve on a system that most know nothing about.

post #44 of 756

1. The DACT stepper that is found in the "normal" BHSE is also rated above the BHSE's temperatures so the ALPS makes no difference with regards to that silly heat/pot theory.

 

2. Even if there was a brightness issue with the BHSE/009 (which there isn't IMO), this makes no difference when used with the Smyth Realiser you are referring to as that EQ's the frequency response of the headphone and amp to match what was measured.  The issue would only come up when using the headphones/amp alone and not with the Realiser activated.

post #45 of 756

To the OP, I would wait for Eddie Current's Electra if you are in no hurry.  Heard the prototype and it's just what the doctor ordered for the 009 IMHO.  

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