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Fubar II USB DAC - Blown fuse, unable to determine correct fuse to use. Help?

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 
I have a Fubar II USB DAC that I bought used from a member here. Recently, it quit working, and I set it aside for a while, as I work has been hectic, and I didn't have time to sit in my office and listen to music, much less try to troubleshoot a piece of gear.

Now I've had some time, and one of the first things I checked was the internal fuse. It was blown, so I went to get a replacement. It's a standard 5x20mm glass fuse. Unfortunately, the markings are non-standard.

The markings are "T200E250V", and a "W" with a small circle above the center of the W, and both inside a circle. On the other end, we have "VDE", a European certification, in a triangle, the "RU" Underwriter's Lab recognized component mark, and a small "US".

I have had zero luck finding out what "T200E" means. I am not exactly inexperienced with electronics, I spoke to a friend who has taken a Master's in EE, and works with circuits that use this type of fuse every day, and talked to an tech support engineer at a fuse company. The consensus is that "250V" means exactly what you might think, it's a 250V rated fuse. The "T200E" is gobbledygook. The best guess is that "T" is time delay, and "200" is 200mA. No one has a clue what the E is for. Or, "T200E" may be a part number.

If you know what it means, if you happen to have a Fubar II, that you're willing to pop the back off of and look, or if you have other means of finding out what the correct fuse rating is, please let me know.

I have been unsuccessful at contacting audiophileproducts.com, the NA distributor. I tried calling all the dealers listed on their site, but was unable to get any info from them.

I recently sent an e-mail to tech@firestone-audio.com.tw, and have not heard back from them as yet.

My last resort is to desolder the fuse holder on the board, as I believe the rating is printed on the board. Quite effectively covered by the fuseholder, unfortunately.

Many thanks to anyone who can help.
post #2 of 4
Thread Starter 

OK, I got an answer from firestone-audio.com.

 

It is, as suspected, a slow-blow, 200mA, 250V fuse.  Just marked for OEM use, not standard.

 

Hopefully this will help anyone else who has the same difficulties.

post #3 of 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by tenzip View Post

OK, I got an answer from firestone-audio.com.

 

It is, as suspected, a slow-blow, 200mA, 250V fuse.  Just marked for OEM use, not standard.

 

Hopefully this will help anyone else who has the same difficulties.

Why did the fuse blow?  If you replace the fuse without knowing, you may find that FUBAR has happened.

 

My Fubar has a tiny SMD fuse. Each board has 2 relays. One of them evidently runs hot as there is faint smoky smell and discoloration of the circuit board. I also got no response from audiophileproducts.  They are asleep at the switch.
 

 

post #4 of 4
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fubar3 View Post

Why did the fuse blow?  If you replace the fuse without knowing, you may find that FUBAR has happened.

That's a good question, but my first step is to replace the fuse. It's hard to troubleshoot without power. And amazingly enough, I don't mind sacrificing a sacrificial part.

Quote:
My Fubar has a tiny SMD fuse. Each board has 2 relays. One of them evidently runs hot as there is faint smoky smell and discoloration of the circuit board. I also got no response from audiophileproducts.  They are asleep at the switch.

I think you must have a Mk. II. Mine has the classic metal clip fuse holder, and the 5x20mm glass fuse. Here is a pic of the fuse holder, no fuse. The DC input jack is upper right, switch just below it, USB input lower right.

500
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