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Modding the Beyer DT1350

post #1 of 19
8/23/11 at 4:04am
Thread Starter 

I have problems with the DT1350's tinny, unnatural timber. I am thinking it can be remedied or at least aided by a little dampening inside, maybe even plastering some blutak on the backs of the drivers if it looks safe to do so. But I can't figure out how to open the cups or even just remove the pads to do my surgery.  

 

Anyone managed to open these babies?


Edited by Mochan - 8/23/11 at 4:16am
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Gear mentioned in this thread:

Beyerdynamic Tesla DT 1350
post #2 of 19
8/23/11 at 7:00am

I agree with you that they have a problem with timber. I'm not sure adding dampening material is going to be enough - I think that you should try to get the driver as close as possible to the ear in addition to that. I've noticed that the DT 1350 gets more full-bodied sounding when I strongly press the cups on my ears to painful levels. But then, bass gets overwhelming and boomy - so dampening could work.

 

The earpads are just fixed to the earcup with some sort of reusable adhesive. Just gently pull one side. When it starts to come off, the rest will come off as well very quickly.

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post #3 of 19
9/2/11 at 5:40am

- i was actually thinking of how to do these mods as you mentioned mochan, before i purchase my DT1350... 

 

i read somewhere that the cables are easy to change if they were to snap or break, so i assume access to the drivers is going to be easy, too wink_face.gif

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post #4 of 19
9/2/11 at 4:44pm

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mochan View Post

I have problems with the DT1350's tinny, unnatural timber.

 

L3000.gif

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post #5 of 19
9/2/11 at 5:44pm
Thread Starter 

LOL well that's how I felt. 

 

Well I will try pulling the pads I guess. Ah I hate doing it this way. :)

I wish it had an earpad assembly that snaps on and off like the Phiaton headphones or the Beats. 

 

Thanks for the tip.

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post #6 of 19
9/2/11 at 5:56pm

+1 for the timber, speacially in most guittar sounds.

 

but FWIK bamp the back of the driver will tigh the bass and the DT1350 bass is already tight as balls.

 

something that adds a boost and probably make the sound fuller might be .. a hole! drill a little "bass port" a la thunderpants on the DT1350 cups and report back.

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post #7 of 19
9/2/11 at 6:11pm

jokes aside, I just had a vision, DT1350 woodie. the cups are round and a wood cup might be not hard to achieve.

 

cocobolo has proven to add body and bass to the sound, I know because I have two grados with cocobolo cups.

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post #8 of 19
9/2/11 at 8:36pm

was it the wood or the size of the new cups?  Is that a line from a pron movie? 

 

Different damping materials have different effects on the sound, but I'm not sure any change in damping will have as much of an effect as it has on orthos.  I took the felt completely out of the M50 and it didn't sound as good, but it wasn't a complete tonal shift like it would have been in an ortho. 


Edited by rhythmdevils - 9/2/11 at 8:47pm
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post #9 of 19
9/2/11 at 9:02pm

^ on one set, the wood cups are a mimic in size and dhape of the original SR60i plastic cups, and is already a huge improvment in bass quantity (or not inprovement, depends if you like pounding bass)

 

I think OP should start byt the easiest and reversibles mods first. change / remove damping like rhythmdevils said.

 

drill holes later tongue_smile.gif

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post #10 of 19
9/3/11 at 12:06am
Thread Starter 

I'm not quite ready to drill a hole and add a bassport, lol. 

 

I wonder what I can do with these cans. I like their sound overall, but often I find myself wanting just a little more low end. It's not quite perfect and "how I want it" and that's the annoying part, since it does a lot of things right.  I think the timber is affected a bit by what, for lack of a better term, I will call "closed can resonance" which I am thinking can be fixed with damping. You're right though JMP, that might just tighten the already tight-as-balls bass! I actually might want to loosen it a bit to give it a more engaging warmth to suit my taste.

 

This is why I am not a headphone engineer, lol!

 

First things first, though, I need to get into the cups. Peeling the pads away is kinda scary though. I'll do this later when I am in a more courageous state of mind.

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post #11 of 19
9/3/11 at 12:28am

Try adding a layer of foam over the existing damping or fill the chamber with foam.  That should help with resonance or echo type sounds. 

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post #12 of 19
9/3/11 at 8:32am

the insides:

http://sulcata.cocolog-nifty.com/blog/2011/04/dt1350-recable-.html

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post #13 of 19
9/3/11 at 1:47pm

I found the dt1350's sound much fuller with nuforce hdp > bottlehead crack with speedball using a bugle boy 12au7a + tungsol 5998 (I believe the 5998 brings the out put impedance to about 90- 100 ohms)

 

It sounds significantly fuller than the hdp by itself, my macbook pro headphone jack, or 4th gen ipod.

 

I haven't seen anyone trying tubes although I had read about the positive pairings with the ttvj slim's tube like sound, so I tried it on a whim...Maybe a nice otl tube amp would do even better?

 


Edited by c540 - 9/7/11 at 6:54pm
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post #14 of 19
9/3/11 at 2:09pm
Thread Starter 

INteresting to see the insides. I have removed the pads, but can't get any further. I will try translating that link since I am lousy at Japanese.

 

 

***

 

Hmm, so there is a "ledge" at 7'oclock... I think I'm supposed to pry it open there using a screw driver. But it's hard! I'll figure this out.


Edited by Mochan - 9/3/11 at 2:28pm
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post #15 of 19
9/3/11 at 3:27pm

 

Use this (Click to show)

 

^ 

martillo+y+cincel.JPG

 

 

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