iBasso D-Zero - Page 8

Quote:

Originally Posted by eclipes 

oh my god, finally someone mentions the LEAR FSM-01, I saw it in Hong Kong but never got the chance to try it out. Can you give me a brief impression of the LEAR vs IBasso T3 ?

 

THANKS
 

A bit OT, but - FSM-01 is by far the best sub$150 portable amp I have heard so far. Performance wise, just a little below 3MOVE on high power mode and better than 3MOVE on low power mode (which is the same as Headsix / XXS) and T3D altogether. It comes with 4 versions, the standard version (which I have), the ELN version (lower output, lower hiss, basically for efficient headphone and IEM), the red and blue version (both are different tuned versions that offer different synergy). I'll be review the standard version sometime next week, if you are interested.

hello, just reposting:

hi clieos, i need your advise.

i have bright phones here...

mx980, ue700 and fx700.

and im planning on getting myself an IPOD by RWA.

and i would like to pair it with a budget amp only.

which is would be better?

E7 or DZERO?

thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by pinoyman 

hello, just reposting:

...

Already answered you on previous page.

Just for the record, I find your description of the D-Zero as being "a bit of the bright side / edgy on top" premature, if not inaccurate ClieOS. At least that's most certainly *not* the case with my D-Zero sample and the various EIM's I have tried it with. The other thing is... this trait you're experiencing (and I believe you are reporting it as you hear it) could just as easily be attributed to the LOD or headphone cable you are using from your source (an iPod?) and the iBasso D-0. Couldn't it? The typical aggressors being all silver LOD/audio cables that are en vogue. I find that silver coated copper (if not OFC) kinder and an excellent compromise.

And lastly, even when you feel the D-0 is " bright side / edgy on top" I find it irresponsible to tag it 'as such' **only** after 24 hours burn in. It takes WAY longer than 24 hours to gauge any component's final sonic signature -- and the problem as I see it is that now we've got people making purchasing decisions based on too premature of an assessment.

I would have preferred reading something like:

"Ok folks, in my humble opinion and only after the first 24 hours burn-in, I feel that as wonderful and wide-sounding the iBasso D-Zero is, I detect a smidgen of brightness and/or edginess on top. I expect these traits to vanish after piling the next 50hr to 75hrs and will report back if things have changed at that time. Additionally, please take note that these listening impressions were made with the "blah blah silver/copper LOD cable" in the chain and my "blah blah source component" using Apple Lossless/MP3/AAC files ripped at 128/192/356kbps and/or full bandwidth AIFF files."

Then we really have a good point of reference that's useful.

Best regards and with much respect,

Oz
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by ClieOS 

If you are not going to use the DAC section of both amp, I don't think you should limit your choice on just these two. I have put at least 24 hours on D-zero now and my original impression still stands - I find D-zero a bit on the bright side and just a tiny bit grainy / edgy on the top. Personally I won't pair D-zero with already bright headphone which might causes sibilance. Also, while the width of soundstage is excellent, the depth / layering is not quite as good. Overall I'll say D-zero is still better than E7, but for the same price range, there are other choices as well. E6 (which is better sounding than E7) is IMO roughly on par with D-zero on the amp section - not quite as wide on soundstage, but better on depth and more texture on the mid / low. E11, like E6, not quite as wide on soundstage, but better on depth and more texture on the mid / low, much better on layering. iBasso T3 / T3D is also good choice, roughly on par of E11 and better than D-zero. If you are willing spend up to $150, LEAR FSM-01 (found on eBay) is pretty much better than both T3D and E11, but it is also also a little edgy like D-zero and might not go quite as well with really bright headphone.

 

As I have said before, I think the real value on D-zero is on its DAC section. It is by far the best sounding [PCM270x + WM8740] combo I have heard.

 

I guess I am one of very few who have both D-zero and E10 right now. If you don't need portability, I'll recommend E10 over D-zero. E10 is cheaper (around $80 or so), the amp section is much more powerful and better textured, the DAC section is better (slightly more detail + 24/96 support). The only place D-zero outshines E10 is on soundstage width. If you need portability however, D-zero is still a really good choice at the sub-$150 bucket.

 

 

hey ClieOS, thats great, you don't know how excited I am for your review about the FSM-01, definitely keep me updated. If the FSM-01, i might get a few versions to try it out. THANKS!
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by ClieOS 

A bit OT, but - FSM-01 is by far the best sub$150 portable amp I have heard so far. Performance wise, just a little below 3MOVE on high power mode and better than 3MOVE on low power mode (which is the same as Headsix / XXS) and T3D altogether. It comes with 4 versions, the standard version (which I have), the ELN version (lower output, lower hiss, basically for efficient headphone and IEM), the red and blue version (both are different tuned versions that offer different synergy). I'll be review the standard version sometime next week, if you are interested.

 

Just for the record, I stand by my current conclusion / impression after compared the D-zero directly to FiiO E6, E7, E10, E11, LEAR FSM-01, iBasso T3D, Meier Audio Corda 3MOVE and Stepdance. Those who read my posts can decide if my words are trustable or not. Sorry to disappoint you, I am just not a big believer on electrical / silicone chip / cable burn-in or all the OFC vs. SPOFC talks (and I do own all sort of cables, including OFC and SPOFC on my DIY LOD with SILVER solder ). If the amp doesn't show any sign of difference after 24 hours burn-in, I highly doubt it will suddenly turn gold by 50 / 100 / *magical-number* hours. But rest assure I will continue to burn D-zero in before my own final review. As for now, I'll keep saying what I have heard with my own ears so far, and nothing more.
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by vinylrules 

Just for the record, I find your description of the D-Zero as being "a bit of the bright side / edgy on top" premature, if not inaccurate ClieOS....

 

Methodological blind testing would help you determine whether burn-in is a real factor or bogus mumbo jumbo. It needn't even take 50 or 100 hrs to determine to hear a real difference. In fact a simple burn-in of a pair of headphones, any amp or DAC running *full throttle* with loud/thick music (and/or burn-in test tones preferably) overnight suffices. It's undeniable and all it takes little effort, patience, and training.

And I can't believe you haven't heard any difference in any of the cables you use!!!

So you *do* have either an all-silver or silver-soldered cable in the chain, huh? You know, you really owe it to this thread to change your LOD cable to see what gives. I assure you some of that brightness/edginess on top on the iBasso D-Zero goes PUFF! Now, I am not saying that *all* silver cables are evil - just humbly suggesting that at the end of the day EVERYTHING counts. SYSTEM SYNERGY is where IT'S AT my friends!!! Just plugging in new component into an established FIXED set of ancillary equipment isn't very thorough way to come to any final conclusions! It is our job to try many different combinations at important junctures of a 'musical chain' that affects all outcomes.

How would you like it a car expert telling you he doesn't believe that tires make much of a difference when writing a definitive test of say, the latest Porsche 911 and does so with budget Kelly or National tires??? Unthinkable! Pirellis, Continentals, and Michelins *must be* part of the equation on said review is null and void!!!

So I look forward to your added comments on the matter after a cable swap and / or after much further burn-in. And if your opinion don't change.. it's ALL COOL my man! We're all just here to share in our passion. I just have a different opinion that I to share while pointing out a few reasons why our opinions might differ differ.

Best regards,

Oz
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by ClieOS 

Just for the record, I stand by my current conclusion / impression after compared the D-zero directly to FiiO E6, E7, E10, E11, LEAR FSM-01, iBasso T3D, Meier Audio Corda 3MOVE and Stepdance. Those who read my posts can decide if my words are trustable or not. Sorry to disappoint you, I am just not a big believer on electrical / silicone chip / cable burn-in or all the OFC vs. SPOFC talks (and I do own all sort of cables, including OFC and SPOFC on my DIY LOD with SILVER solder ). If the amp doesn't show any sign of difference after 24 hours burn-in, I highly doubt it will suddenly turn gold by 50 / 100 / *magical-number* hours. But rest assure I will continue to burn D-zero in before my own final review. As for now, I'll keep saying what I have heard with my own ears so far, and nothing more.
 

 

Oops, sorry for some of the typos words that are missing different places. I guess I needed to proof-read one last time! LOL

In example, the following passage should have read:

"I just have a different opinion that I had to share, while pointing out a few reasons why our opinions might differ."

Peace out!

although it has a different price tag than a pico slim and ttvj slim, how does it sound compared with those two?

Looks like you're not the only one that thinks it's bright.

http://headfonics.com/2011/09/the-ibasso-d-zero-think-small-real-small/
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by ClieOS 

Just for the record, I stand by my current conclusion / impression after compared the D-zero directly to FiiO E6, E7, E10, E11, LEAR FSM-01, iBasso T3D, Meier Audio Corda 3MOVE and Stepdance. Those who read my posts can decide if my words are trustable or not. Sorry to disappoint you, I am just not a big believer on electrical / silicone chip / cable burn-in or all the OFC vs. SPOFC talks (and I do own all sort of cables, including OFC and SPOFC on my DIY LOD with SILVER solder ). If the amp doesn't show any sign of difference after 24 hours burn-in, I highly doubt it will suddenly turn gold by 50 / 100 / *magical-number* hours. But rest assure I will continue to burn D-zero in before my own final review. As for now, I'll keep saying what I have heard with my own ears so far, and nothing more.
 

 

Thanks for the info.
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anathallo 

Looks like you're not the only one that thinks it's bright.

 

http://headfonics.com/2011/09/the-ibasso-d-zero-think-small-real-small/
 

It is a very nice review but my personal impression is that the reviewer isn't quite calling it "bright" per se. Not directly. All he's done is reason that matching the D-Zero with known bright headphones would not yield the best sounds. However this is NOT the D-Zero's fault! Who on earth would knowingly listen to bright headphones as opposed to a well balanced, natural sounding pair anyway? Like Duh! I would say headphones should get chosen first and not the other way around - this way one's not forced to shop around for a dark, soft-sounding amp to tame a bright or aggressive IEM. Makes sense?

Getting back to the review...

The reviewer goes on to say "the tonality was much more neutral and resolving with a much greater degree of articulation compared to the [FIIO] E7"

These are all excellent traits to possess at *any price* my friends. Never mind from a product that only retails for $109 dollars!

And in closing he states: "The D Zero amp came across as the cleaner and more detailed amp with above average attack and decay in the uppers and a clean punchy bass that was tight and very well focused."

But at the end even this guy knows that it basically comes down to system matching. Period.

Except I contend that this *system matching* needs to be extended to ALL ancillary apparel such as LOD cables as they impart undeniable sonic signatures that will impact the end result.

So you can go ahead and tag it as bright all you want because I know the opposite to be the case. You should always judge with your own ears anyway, and I hope you get a chance to.

I am still looking for ClieOS thoughts on the lil' guy he has logged countless more burn-in hours and swapped the silver LOD cable. I think he might be in for a shocker.

And you own a K701? 
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by vinylrules 

 Who on earth would knowingly listen to bright headphones as opposed to a well balanced, natural sounding pair anyway? Like Duh!

But how bright?  Lack of bass?  Treble boost/peaks?  More treble extension and clarity can also brighten your day.