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best solder for DIY

post #1 of 26
Thread Starter 

I Wonder won't solder's decrease connection quality or increase the cables resistance,or is there a special type for high-end connections ?! 

post #2 of 26

Cardas Quad Eutectic solder. Best in the buisness so I've been told. Lead free and leaded versions. 1lb or 100g your choice. Check ebay.

post #3 of 26
I think Mundorf has some gold solder, I personally will stick to Kester 63/37 eutectic solder unless I get documented proof that using a silver blend or leadfree will make an audible difference. No need to change what works.
post #4 of 26

Second the Kester 63/37. With "44" flux.

 

se

 

 

post #5 of 26

^^ Agreed. Kester rosin core 63/37 is the easiest solder to work with that I have ever used. As long as you have a good connection I doubt very much there is any audible difference between solders. And it's much cheaper than the cardas stuff and much easier to find.

post #6 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Eddy View Post

Second the Kester 63/37. With "44" flux.

 

se

 

 

+1 been using Kester for everything :]
 

 

post #7 of 26
Thread Starter 

I guess gold & silver has to be the best materials but it has to be extremely expensive

post #8 of 26

I personally use Cardas, it has a low melting point and works well. I used the Kester 63/37 before I made the switch and liked that as well. Both are very easy to use imho. 

post #9 of 26

+ 1 for Kester 63/37

post #10 of 26
Thread Starter 

what about this:

http://www.qables.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=766

post #11 of 26

I use "Wonder Solder" that I got from Michael Percy Audio - works well.  I think the percentages are a secret :)  - a wee bit cheaper than Cardas.

post #12 of 26

Kester 63/37.

post #13 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by peaceful1 View Post

I guess gold & silver has to be the best materials but it has to be extremely expensive


Not necessarily.

Soldering is about making the best possible physical joint. You need something with a good melting point and that flows well to make a permanent, physical connection.

Don't anthropomorphize materials with the magical thinking you often find in audio. People often assume that price plus jewelry-factor equals the best result. It doesn't work that way.

I use 60/40 from Kester or Radio Shack. Easy to work and makes excellent, shiny joints. 63/37 is good, too.
post #14 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Erik View Post



Not necessarily.

Soldering is about making the best possible physical joint. You need something with a good melting point and that flows well to make a permanent, physical connection.

Don't anthropomorphize materials with the magical thinking you often find in audio. People often assume that price plus jewelry-factor equals the best result. It doesn't work that way.

I use 60/40 from Kester or Radio Shack. Easy to work and makes excellent, shiny joints. 63/37 is good, too.



How long does one srynge of Kester 63/37 last? As a noob in DIY, I only used rolled up solder wire...

post #15 of 26
It depends on your project. More joints need more solder. Try not to put on too much. Just enough for it to wick around the leads and contact. You'll get the hang of it.
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