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Finished Y1, bad ohms reading for everything

post #1 of 6
8/4/11 at 1:21pm
Thread Starter 
I've tried an analog and digital multimeter with my Y1 that I finished today. no pad is giving me any sort of proepr reading. The analog meter read about 1 ohm for every single test point and the digital one reads "0L", ie it doesnt seem to register the fact that there is a load. When I test the voltage pads (5v, 4.5v, 3.3v) it reads something for a split second in the hundreds and then switches back to 0L.

It should be noted that I will be building the Y2 also and I have all the parts for it and followed instructions for it, so I dont know if that will make a difference in testing

Ive pored over every inch of the board and I cannot see any place where there is a solder bridge or a short. The only place I cant check is underneath some components, and I was only using .022" lead free solder so I highly doubt theres any solder flooding that occured. Here's pics fwiw.

500
500
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post #2 of 6
8/4/11 at 3:09pm

"0L" = the reading is beyond the selected range for an manual ranging meter or the reading is beyond the capabilities for an auto-ranging meter.

 

 

There are two resistance checks outlined on the Y1 instruction page.

 The first is to ensure the integrity of the SMD solder joints and a "OL" reading is an indication of a bad joint.

 The second is to ensure there are no unwanted short circuits and "OL" is what you should be seeing if you are using a manual ranging meter that is set to it's lowest range.

 

 

Quote:
Use your multimeter and check the resistance between each pin of the chip and the pad to make sure you don't have a cold joint (i.e., your meter should read close to zero ohms). Also check continuity between adjacent pins for solder bridges (meter should read infinity, except where the pins are supposed to be connected to each other, see the schematic diagram for verification).

 

 

Oh, and... It sounds like the analog meter needs a new battery.

 

 

 

 

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post #3 of 6
8/4/11 at 3:26pm

you cant really measure resistance of individual parts on a finished board

If you try you are very likely to measure the resistance of everything around it as well

It's still good for sanity checks though. like short circuits or bad soldering

 

it does sound like a low battery problem


Edited by Costia - 8/4/11 at 3:28pm
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post #4 of 6
8/5/11 at 7:42am
Thread Starter 
Alright, so I finished the Y2 last night except I have one pin header (right term?) left that is supposed to connect to the pin on the Y1's JP1D pin2. It was one heck of a fiasco last night trying to figure the pins and whatnot out. For I installed the SIP9 and the connectors on the wrong side of the Y2 so nothing matched up with the Y1. it was pins to pins and headers to headers. Then I switched both of them and the only part that was remaining was JP1D-2 on Y1. Then I realized the Y1 was right all along and that I had switched it to make it wrong, so now I have to switch it again. Lo and behold, I ran out of desoldering braid so it was impossible, plus im not entirely sure the parts are still usable. I still have a 9 pin bus that i was supposed to cut 1 receptacle off of and put it into the Y2's circle connector for J3 but I think i'm going to use the new header for the Y1 instead and use the salvaged part from Y1 on the Y2. Radioshack doesnt have the headers at all and I just got some deslodering braid from them.

After that its testing and the product is done, albiet not entirely gracefully
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post #5 of 6
8/5/11 at 9:16am
Thread Starter 
Also, I just was about to test the board when i realized i have somehow broken my bicolor switch. I guess thats another 16 bucks.....
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post #6 of 6
8/5/11 at 9:34am
Thread Starter 
the switch is completely totaled so I need to wait until digikey sends me out another one.

For some reason the boards do not sit flush with each other. SOMETHING is causing them to float apart from each other. I suspect that it is the headers/pins themselves because I screwed up on that part so many times that there is a high chance I damaged that part.... I did not get any voltage readings off of the test pads either but I'm going to have to check what is going on. The USB DAC device recognized message came on just fine when I plugged it in.

Also I have no clue how to test the Y1's power circuit if the Y1 has no power without the Y2 attached....
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