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Another "is this ebay Hakko 936 real?" thread, the listing edition

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 

So I've been meaning to get into soldering since these cables weren't going to get fixed/shortened themselves, and was looking for a cheap iron to start it off. I was thinking about buying that CSI Hakko clone or perhaps one of those bargain bin stations I've seen online, but then I realized that maybe I should try my luck on ebay for the real thing. A couple of listings passed, and then I saw this auction ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380357530770&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:US:1123 ) by these guys ( http://myworld.ebay.com/cool-lynx/?_trksid=p4340.l2559 ). I google searched for any further info on them, and they appear to be an honest to goodness manufacturing company ( http://cpmlynx.com/pages/1/index.htm ) electronics manufacturing company, perhaps trying to hawk off some of their old equipment.

 

Well I made a bid, and apparently today I won it for 25 bucks shipped as you can see there. This listing has no pictures (probably should have asked for them!), and I'm gonna have to see if I can't get tips in in time to test on my end before the 7 day period is up. I'm about to make the payment, as to my mind I doubt an actual company using this equipment to make products is going to buy fakes, but before I do, what do you think? Am I just being a little silly waiting before I pay as I've already done all the work and there's really no looking back before I pull out, or is there actually something I should worry about besides the obvious in this moderately risky maneuver? From what I can see, I think I'd make out well if it's fake or real for that price anyway, as the price is low enough that it's below the price of a new clone if it's in decent working order, which the seller claims to be. Am I preparing myself for disappointment anyway though?

 

Edit: Wow, I've forgotten how finicky this current version of the forum software was about linking. Parentheses for now I guess.


Edited by Anvil - 8/2/11 at 1:47pm
post #2 of 17
Thread Starter 

Actually...meh, just paid for it. No point in not doing it I guess. :p


Edited by Anvil - 8/2/11 at 6:06pm
post #3 of 17

even if it is a clone, for 25$ its still a good iron for a good price

post #4 of 17
Thread Starter 

That's what I'm thinking, plus I committed myself to this so I might as well see it through.

 

I think I need to buy a stand though...wait, if this thing turns out to be a real Hakko after all, what would happen if I bought a fake stand for it past maybe Jesus weeping?


Edited by Anvil - 8/2/11 at 6:05pm
post #5 of 17

theres a decent chance it is a real hakko. and if it isnt and your not happy with it you can file a complaint saying its not how it was described. but chances are its still going to perform fine.

post #6 of 17
Thread Starter 

Truth be told it's the return period that really concerns me, don't know if I can get a tip in before my 7 days are up tongue.gif

 

I guess I could try online from Frys.

 

As for chances of it being a real Hakko, I'd think they're pretty good. I don't really see why an actual electronics fabrication business would use fake equipment for a living, assuming I'm right and they're just pawning off their retired gear.


Edited by Anvil - 8/2/11 at 6:38pm
post #7 of 17

that could be a problem. there are threads about this with pictures comparing fakes to the real station. i would look very closely at yours and see if it matches up. 

post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 

That's the plan!

 

I'll post pics when it comes in. redface.gif


Edited by Anvil - 8/2/11 at 8:11pm
post #9 of 17

I bought my Hakko 936 on eBay new for a good price and its real. If you want to get into soldering I would strongly suggest that you get a new equipment. At least you have a peace of mind that the equipment will function instead of malfunction and cause some undesirable results.

post #10 of 17

i have the aoyue 937+ (good hakko clone) and it works very well. good equipment and tools are definitely key.

post #11 of 17
Thread Starter 

I've heard of that one yeah, but I saw this as a bit of a gamble to get the genuine article and leapt on it.

 

Anyways, while I'm at ordering tips and stuff, what's a good tip to use on a 907 iron for cable reterminations//shortening/alterations in general? I'd like to move on to bigger and better things in the future(always wanted to try my hand at making some DIY amps and the like), but that's kinda what I wanna do in the immediate future and of course there seems to be tons of tips for whatever purpose you want to use your iron for. No doubt I'll grab more as I potentially move onto more ambitious projects, but that's what I want to start with.

 

While we're at it, what about solder? I've heard good things about Cardas solder, and it seems to be available for a pretty **** good price online.

post #12 of 17

i use the standard t-1 conical tip but lots of people like chisel tips. i was never a big fan.

 

as for solder, the brand isnt as important as the type of solder. its very important to make sure you get a eutectic mixture. if you dont, your joint will get stuck in a weird pasty consistency for a few seconds before it turns back into a solid. if you move the wire or whatever you are soldering while its pasty, you could end up with a cold joint and have no idea why your circuit doesnt work.

i use 63/35/2. its eutectic and it has a little bit of silver so it conducts better. and most importantly dont get any of that lead free solder its all pretty crappy.

post #13 of 17
Thread Starter 

It's just that from some research online into the subject told me that the chisel tip was what I wanted, although I don't recall what exactly for. I suppose I could pick up either at Frys on economy shipping, but currently I'm waffling between the choices.

 

Getting into solder is something almost new to me. I come from the computer hardware world and of course I see mentions of it a lot of course, sometimes in creative ways like "baking" GPUs to reflow solder to fix them, but I haven't heard much specifically about the stuff besides the fact that the lead-free solder wasn't the best to use in video cards back in 2006 or so. Actually, I think most people don't like lead free solder, apparently the "regular" type is better in some way(melts better I think?) but I'm a little hazy on the why and such.

 

Then again, if I'm just buying for brief testing, maybe I can just fudge it well enough for now. Just need a sponge until I can get one of those copper tip cleaners in and I'd be set I think. tongue.gif


Edited by Anvil - 8/3/11 at 2:21pm
post #14 of 17

When I bought mine, it came with the chisel tip and that's the one I often use. Then I bought some tips on ebay.

 

For solder, I use RadioShack 62/36/2 0.22" diameter. You may also want to get a solder sucker, I just use the rubber ball type from RadioShack. Also get a roll of desoldering braid.

 

As for temperature, I set mine around 650 fahrenheit for soldering and 750 to desolder..

 

The lead-free solder takes a higher temperature to solder/desolder based on some techs at my work's experience with them.

post #15 of 17
Thread Starter 

I had thought I updated this, but here goes.

 

Anyways, I decided to be boring this time around and just get the small chisel tip, which seems to be what most people use. Got it from Fry's last midweek and was surprised when it came in today, faster than I expected. As for solder, I was going to buy some cheap stuff for testing, but I put a self imposed deadline of sometime this week on when I wanted that to come in, and it turns out when it was all said and done I could get Cardas Quad for not much more than the Kester stuff I was looking at, so I got 20 feet of that(it was 10 ft but they ran out of those before I decided to order, go figure).

 

Now I just need to get a sponge and/or stand and I ought to be ready.


Edited by Anvil - 8/8/11 at 1:39pm
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