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Wiring a transformer to a CK2III

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 

Hi guys. Figured I'd make sure I was getting this right, just in case my amplifier explodes or the transformer mutates into a giant copper winding robot of death. Or something. It's correct, as far as I can tell. Also, how should I connect the ground on the IEC inlet to the chassis? What are those little grounding rings I occasionally see on the end of wires called? Anybody got a digikey part number?

 

 

http://cdn.head-fi.org/d/d4/d42a979b_power.png

post #2 of 12

An insulated faston + length of wire + ring terminal mounted to a screw in the enclosure is the normal way.


Edited by MisterX - 7/22/11 at 6:46pm
post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 

Fast on: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A34777CT-ND

Solder wire to faston, stuff faston on ground tab? Buy associated male faston, solder to ground tab? Never used one before.

 

Ring terminal: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A100690CT-ND

Cool. So that's what they're called.

 

post #4 of 12

Assuming 20 awg wire....

 

Try # WM18237-ND for fastons and # WM18273-ND for ring terminals.

 

And maybe # WM18730-ND if you need a crimper. ;)

post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 

Bah. Crimpers. Who needs 'em. My trusty pliers will do the job.

 

So, uh, am I supposed to use a faston for every connection to the IEC module? And one ring terminal for the IEC ground, and one for the board?

post #6 of 12
Thread Starter 

Naked women.

 

Last minute check before I set everything on fire: Is the wiring in the picture in the first post correct?

 

EDIT: A thought occurs: The little dots mean something. For example, if I'm doing my reading correctly, I've got the wires backwards. 

 

Also, am I only supposed to use a faston for the ground connection? I see no way I'd be able to fit two 18 gauge wires into one faston.

 

newpower.jpg


Edited by Ntropic - 8/22/11 at 11:54am
post #7 of 12
Thread Starter 

Welp. Hooked up the transformer (not to the CK2III board, just the IEC outlet) and blew the fuse when I switched on the power. Changed the fuse, made sure ground had a connection, tried it again, same result. Ideas?

 

PS: Fastons are the worst things I have yet encountered, including working with 22 AWG wire, and soldering 18AWG wire onto the posts of a ACJS-MHDE (mouser part number) because the 22AWG kept breaking.


Edited by Ntropic - 8/25/11 at 11:59pm
post #8 of 12

from your diagram your paralleled transformer primaries look out of phase - this will certainly cause fuses to blow

the red and green one you first posted was right, the black and white one is wrong

 

the phase of the secondaries doesn't matter for this amp as it uses one diode bridge per secondary

post #9 of 12
Thread Starter 

Gah, seriously? Now I feel sad. Just so we're clear, the phasing dots are on the middle two prongs. Don't I want current going in on those prongs?

post #10 of 12

Try googling "Cavalli Kumisa III" transformer wiring primaries.   And look at your transformer's datasheet, e.g.:

trans.jpg

post #11 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ntropic View Post

Gah, seriously? Now I feel sad. Just so we're clear, the phasing dots are on the middle two prongs. Don't I want current going in on those prongs?


Couldn't even see those dots in the photo till you pointed them out. That seems to be counter-convention, and the datasheet as shown above doesn't back that up either.

Pretty piss poor printing on the tranny i'd say. frown.gif

post #12 of 12
Thread Starter 


Wow, I don't know what to say. I'm going to go commit sudoku now. Completely forgot to check for a datasheet. Er, what direction is that diagram looking at the transformer from. The bottom?

 

When they say apply 115v across 6 and 5, that means a voltage difference of 115v across 6 and 5, meaning we got L on 6 (and 4), and N on 5 (and 3). I got that right, yeah? and the secondary side I don't have to change because of diodes. Beautiful sexy diodes. Strange how the dots on the transformer don't seem to work.

 

Say, while people are looking at my thread, I don't suppose any of you have any ideas on how to mount said transformer inside a case without the use of breadboard, would you? I'm thinking of using a piece of wood, and having it mount on that. Also, any opinion on using 0.5A fuses instead of 0.25A? They're the only ones I can find locally. You know, just in case I blow through the two 0.25A I have left.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cfcubed View Post

Try googling "Cavalli Kumisa III" transformer wiring primaries.   And look at your transformer's datasheet, e.g.:


Victoryyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy. It works. DC offset voltage on OR/OL to OG is 10V though. Gotta figure that one out... Reseated opamp. Now OR/OL to OG shows nothing, and R23/47 don't respond to trimpot adjustments. Power supply transistors are supposed to be pretty hot while sinked, right? I'm guessing sink temperature is about 80 C in 28 C ambient.

 


Edited by Ntropic - 8/26/11 at 5:55pm
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